type R 15s (need more help)

[Jared420]

I figured I would just put it in this thread instead of starting a whole new one. I wanna start doing my research now so i can get things squared away on this one because it will be somewhat legit instead of squeezing a weird shaped box with underpowered woofers and a box that is way on the small side. This time i gotta do it better more power more airspace bigger port area.

And either way what would be the best way to do this subs facing back port up, subs up port up? I have been leaning toward subs back port up because I like the port up right now but i feel like having the subs face back would help the subs sound more clean and hide slight distortion if there is any distortion.

[Jared420]

And either way what would be the best way to do this subs facing back port up, subs up port up? I have been leaning toward subs back port up because I like the port up right now but i feel like having the subs face back would help the subs sound more clean and hide slight distortion if there is any distortion.

Or any combination. Ive noticed alot of people with SUV's do subs up port back. But an ext cab truck is a completly different shape. Im wondering if anyone has played with options and figured out what works best. (outta curiosity people say hatchbacks and most suvs are easy to get loud in, what about an extended cab truck? i feel like its a little harder to get loud in my truck than it is in a trunk car or something else)

[Jared420]

OK i am bringing back this thread to ask a little more advice. I feel like I am getting the hang of everything a little better and have a decent grasp on alot of the basics of sound systems. Like I said this is the loudest setup I have had to date , and although I am satisfied Im still not satisfied. I dont exactly have that slamming bass that Ive been hoping for but I feel like Im decently close to getting there. I have already decided I will be doing a rebuild in the spring. Ok so there are probably about 50 people on here that are gonna wanna say I TOLD YOU SO!!!! but Ive given it some though and Im gonna say F#$K the backseat. Its comming out and Im building a huge normal rectangle ported box.

Equipment I want to use,

AQ2200

2 15'' type rs (possibly 3, i will explain)

Big 3 0 gauge

switch my power and ground to 0 gauge

Good battery in the back.

Now here are the questions.

My box will be able to be about 12-14 cuft before any displacement. Will this be too big to run 2 15's and would I be better off with a 3rd (they are dual 4 ohm subs so 3 could be wired to .67 i believe) so I would have a ton of airspace and a decent amount of power to 3 subs, or a good amount of power and at least 12cuft for 2 15s.

anything i guess the 2 major questions are will that electrical be enough to run the 2200 decently. I know a high output alt is recommended but is it really NEEDED and the box size will that be too much space for only 2 15s?

[Marlo Stanfield]

You've already seen my opinion - 2 15" Rs + AQ 2200D @ 1ohm.. 7.5ft3 @ 34hz, 80-100in^2 of port. Subs firing forward w/ port facing upwards. Double baffle, lots of bracing, 45s in corner, and resin the interior of the box to slicken it up.

Then for electrical(using the 2200D) - Batt under hood(Kinetik 1400, Northstar NSB-70, XS D5100, etc), at least 1 big batt in back(NSB-125, XS 3100, Odyssey 2150, etc), big 3 upgrade, and dual 1/0 power + ground runs from amp. HO alt is strongly recommended to get but for the time being the OP should be able to get by with what I've suggested.

[Jared420]

You've already seen my opinion - 2 15" Rs + AQ 2200D @ 1ohm.. 7.5ft3 @ 34hz, 80-100in^2 of port. Subs firing forward w/ port facing upwards. Double baffle, lots of bracing, 45s in corner, and resin the interior of the box to slicken it up.

Then for electrical(using the 2200D) - Batt under hood(Kinetik 1400, Northstar NSB-70, XS D5100, etc), at least 1 big batt in back(NSB-125, XS 3100, Odyssey 2150, etc), big 3 upgrade, and dual 1/0 power + ground runs from amp. HO alt is strongly recommended to get but for the time being the OP should be able to get by with what I've suggested.

Thats big for me, not needing the alt. I dont know how to install an alt and I havent seen any for under like 400 bucks and that makes the difference between spendin a little and alot. If the alt was absolutly needed I would just say f*ck it and keep what I have because with the alt were talking well over 1000 dollars for the upgrade.

[basshead4life]

if you could or know anyone who could fab you up a dual alt bracket then you could add and other stock one to keep it on the cheap.

[Jared420]

if you could or know anyone who could fab you up a dual alt bracket then you could add and other stock one to keep it on the cheap.

I never thought of that. how hard is it to do something like that. I have a mechanic my family has been going to for a few years and Ive gotten him a good amount of business Im sure he would help me out for cheap on one of his slower days. But would that mean you need a new belt longer to go around 2 alts instead of 1. I dont know much about workin under the hood, I can change spark plugs and my oil and I put my K&N in but thats about as far as I feel comfortable going.

[Snow]

Hmm. You keep saying 700 RMS a piece and yet your amplifier will only produce 1200.

I wouldn't expect the AQ to be underrated, and would think it would just put out rated. At most I would say you are getting 600 RMS a piece.

Also the amp's rated at 14.4 Volts and what does your electrical sit at idle? Full tilt?

[Jared420]

Hmm. You keep saying 700 RMS a piece and yet your amplifier will only produce 1200.

I wouldn't expect the AQ to be underrated, and would think it would just put out rated. At most I would say you are getting 600 RMS a piece.

Also the amp's rated at 14.4 Volts and what does your electrical sit at idle? Full tilt?

The amp is tested and rated at 1470 rms @ 1 ohm and 14.4 I dont have a digital voltmeter but the gauge on the dash sits a good amount above 14 and will drop to mid 13s at full tilt but quickly charges back to 14 or above even if the bass keeps hitting. while im driving i get dimming lights and stuff but not much voltage loss and when it does drop it only drops for a second or 2 and charges right back up.

[Snow]

NVm, my post is pretty pointless seeing you have the subs already.

But as for the upgrade I would go for a H.O. alt. and a nice batt. under the hood.

In trucks you can fit pretty big batteries under the hood, so it isn't really necessary to run a second for 2k. And as for a box I would go 3-3.5 cubes per 15. Some people have run a pretty hefty amount of power on stock alt, so if you're going to keep the stock alt I would upgrade the battery under the hood and also add one in back.

Do you know the amperage of your stock alt?