PWK Box Build

[OrionStang]

Not worried aout haters either. Just wanted to show the design.

[Nightshade]

Why didn't you just tell Pete that you were going to use 1" mdf instead of 3/4"? That would have been the easiest way of going about it, and if you did and he still did the design with 3/4" wood then I'd be asking for my money back as compensation for the lost sheet of 1". That stuff is not exactly cheap. When I worked at a wood product manufacturer I could get a 49" X 97" sheet of 1" for $48 and that was wholesale.

[OrionStang]

Why didn't you just tell Pete that you were going to use 1" mdf instead of 3/4"? That would have been the easiest way of going about it, and if you did and he still did the design with 3/4" wood then I'd be asking for my money back as compensation for the lost sheet of 1". That stuff is not exactly cheap. When I worked at a wood product manufacturer I could get a 49" X 97" sheet of 1" for $48 and that was wholesale.

Didn't plan 1". Thats all I can get here, that or half inch. Not Petes fault. Kinda mine for not checking ahead of time. Its all good, everything is getting redone for 1" MDF plans.

[Nightshade]

Can you get birch? Check and see if you can get that because I see a lot of European competitors on Termpro use 3/4" birch for their boxes, and some of them just happen to be from Germany. Unless that's not where your at now, but I would check into birch anyway. That's what I plan on using from here on out for all of my personal boxes. It is much stronger, rigid, and lighter. I've been told by some that by using birch over mdf with the same exact box design, port area, and bracing that the birch was .4-1db louder than the mdf. That's enough to sell me right there. It is more expensive though and is probably the only downside to it. Mdf costs around $25 for a 4 X 8 sheet here in the US, and birch is around $50 for the same size sheet.

[OrionStang]

Can you get birch? Check and see if you can get that because I see a lot of European competitors on Termpro use 3/4" birch for their boxes, and some of them just happen to be from Germany. Unless that's not where your at now, but I would check into birch anyway. That's what I plan on using from here on out for all of my personal boxes. It is much stronger, rigid, and lighter. I've been told by some that by using birch over mdf with the same exact box design, port area, and bracing that the birch was .4-1db louder than the mdf. That's enough to sell me right there. It is more expensive though and is probably the only downside to it. Mdf costs around $25 for a 4 X 8 sheet here in the US, and birch is around $50 for the same size sheet.

I'll look into that. Thanks, man. I'm in a small shitty town where its hard to get anything without driving 2-3 hours.

[SQMonte]

i took as hating, sounded to me like you were trying to be an ass

For a site full of grown ass men there sure is alot of sensitivity around here. And even if I was being an ass, just for the sake of argument, what's it to you anyway? Don't worry about me and what i'm doing

Yeah. Once I realized the cuts on the top and bottom were off, I decided to build it anyway, kind of a practice run. I'm gonna get another sheet of MDF next weekend, and pay more attention to my cutting. Like I said before, this was my first time ever doing any woodwork. Plus I get to build two boxes

Good shit. I was hoping you weren't going to leave it that way not only for cosmetic reasons, but also it would be a PITA if you wanted to carpet it with those edges like that. But it seems you have it all figured out so no worries. Out of curiosity, how long did it take you to get your design once you paid for it?

[xseveredveganx]

I'm with the others as far as the cuts having to be accurate. It's fairly detrimental with a PWK design. I speak from experience. I've had many TTB/MAC/Hexi/PWK Designs. All warrant a certain degree of accurateness.

This being a horn, if you're off slightly at tthe port start (by the compression chamber) the error will increase further it goes down the horn throat.

Not 'hating', just stating what has happened to myself in the past. I had a 4th order bandpass jin which I did not seal properly. Output was good, but I always got coil stink.

Make sure with the next build, you cut the 90degree pieces properly. But all in all looks good!

[OrionStang]

For a site full of grown ass men there sure is alot of sensitivity around here. And even if I was being an ass, just for the sake of argument, what's it to you anyway? Don't worry about me and what i'm doing

Good shit. I was hoping you weren't going to leave it that way not only for cosmetic reasons, but also it would be a PITA if you wanted to carpet it with those edges like that. But it seems you have it all figured out so no worries. Out of curiosity, how long did it take you to get your design once you paid for it?

About 2 months, but I didn't pay for express. He's got a heavy workload.

[OrionStang]

I'm with the others as far as the cuts having to be accurate. It's fairly detrimental with a PWK design. I speak from experience. I've had many TTB/MAC/Hexi/PWK Designs. All warrant a certain degree of accurateness.

This being a horn, if you're off slightly at tthe port start (by the compression chamber) the error will increase further it goes down the horn throat.

Not 'hating', just stating what has happened to myself in the past. I had a 4th order bandpass jin which I did not seal properly. Output was good, but I always got coil stink.

Make sure with the next build, you cut the 90degree pieces properly. But all in all looks good!

The port is accurate. I only lost little volume due to the port walls being 1", should still work 'ok' but redoing next weekend. Its an ugly fucker.

[SQMonte]

About 2 months, but I didn't pay for express. He's got a heavy workload.

Yeah, i've heard. I've been considering getting a PWK design so I just wanted to get an idea on how long I should expect to wait once I decide to go for it.