firebirdude Posted November 12, 2015 Report Posted November 12, 2015 Nice pictures. Now show butt connecting two 0g pieces. Quote
MrSkippyJ Posted November 12, 2015 Report Posted November 12, 2015 if the strands are all one though, there isn't any gaps though? I'm just guessing here though, so I could be way off. Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
infinitefoamies Posted November 12, 2015 Report Posted November 12, 2015 What do you mean by of the strands are all one? Quote 1971 K10 Suburban - Chummins 1973 MG B GT 1981 Tartan 3000 1988 F350 XLT Lariat IDI
MrSkippyJ Posted November 12, 2015 Report Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) the crimp compresses them into a single piece. look at the picture at the top, it looks like a solid piece of metal, not individual strands. Edited November 12, 2015 by MrSkippyJ Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
infinitefoamies Posted November 12, 2015 Report Posted November 12, 2015 Not sure which picture as the one I saw was soldered. But when I did mine the solder had to go somewhere and it didnt leak out... Quote 1971 K10 Suburban - Chummins 1973 MG B GT 1981 Tartan 3000 1988 F350 XLT Lariat IDI
daimer Posted November 12, 2015 Report Posted November 12, 2015 (edited) I absolutely agree that with proper hydraulic crimping there is no place for solder. If there is, you have done it wrong. Here are a couple of pictures that I took: Edited November 12, 2015 by daimer Quote My humble build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192602-corsa-b-daily-build-with-12-ground-zero-new-box-in/ Single Zv4 Rev.2 15" on a 10k amp: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/201434-my-reviewtest-of-the-zv4-rev2-15/
infinitefoamies Posted November 12, 2015 Report Posted November 12, 2015 Interesting. Wonder what I did wrong then. Dont really have the money to cut one up as they are not cheap. Quote 1971 K10 Suburban - Chummins 1973 MG B GT 1981 Tartan 3000 1988 F350 XLT Lariat IDI
daimer Posted November 12, 2015 Report Posted November 12, 2015 Not cheap? I buy my lugs for like 50-80 cents and they are pretty solid. Copper or tinned copper. Quote My humble build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192602-corsa-b-daily-build-with-12-ground-zero-new-box-in/ Single Zv4 Rev.2 15" on a 10k amp: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/201434-my-reviewtest-of-the-zv4-rev2-15/
infinitefoamies Posted November 12, 2015 Report Posted November 12, 2015 Im talking about marine grade flag battery terminals. About $12/ea. 1 Quote 1971 K10 Suburban - Chummins 1973 MG B GT 1981 Tartan 3000 1988 F350 XLT Lariat IDI
jimdog32526 Posted January 5, 2017 Report Posted January 5, 2017 Those are the terminals I like to use too Daimer. I dont crimp them though, The ones I get come with Solder plugs that you drop in. Basically you clamp them in the vice with the hole facing up, Drop in the solder slug, heat the terminal up with the propane torch, Pre strip the wires to the exact depth you need, then once the terminal is HOT and the solder is melted, just slide the wire down inside it and hold it there. You can keep heating it and feed more solder in at the junction, but with the solder slug, thats really all you need. Feeding a bit more solder will help seal the end around the terminal, but if you use too much it will suck up the wire and melt the jacket and make the cable stiff for however far it travels up the wire. For Battery terminals I like these Flag style terminals and the solder slugs I use Heavy Duty Battery cable heat shrink with Glue inside. It helps seal the connection and prevents corrosion. Quote
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