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meade916

How To: Solder Large Gauge Wire.

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IMO - if your wire is getting hot enough to melt solder then i think you have an issue with the wire size and resistance. I don't know about you guys but my insualtion is melting when i am soldering. thats pretty darn hot and i think you would notice if the wire was that hot. I would worry about the cars electrical at that point and any plastic its touchingr


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tottally off topic but i got the same shirt...ggg-unot haha... yaaboy haha

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"98crewcab"Never a POS....just always "a work in progress" lol that's how we roll bitches!!!

Your a lowlife kid. I bet your mother wants to kill herself for not swallowing your ass.

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tottally off topic but i got the same shirt...ggg-unot haha... yaaboy haha

Posted Image


BUILDLOG

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=61862

"98crewcab"Never a POS....just always "a work in progress" lol that's how we roll bitches!!!

Your a lowlife kid. I bet your mother wants to kill herself for not swallowing your ass.

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I read an interesting post on another forum:

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showpost.php...mp;postcount=25

Opinions?

its true.

And strength itself is definitely not the reason for crimping. I never suggested putting lots of force on the connections, but what happens when you get in a fender bender and some of your batteries shift forward a half an inch, enough to put tension on some random wire in your battery bank.

Now is it gonna be a $500 bumper fix or a totaled ball of flaming equipment?

That may be extreme but stranger things have happened. Besides, if you're skeptical at all...theres always that whole scientific fact of the better electrical connection which you can use to justify your choice to crimp.


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its true.

And strength itself is definitely not the reason for crimping. I never suggested putting lots of force on the connections, but what happens when you get in a fender bender and some of your batteries shift forward a half an inch, enough to put tension on some random wire in your battery bank.

Now is it gonna be a $500 bumper fix or a totaled ball of flaming equipment?

That may be extreme but stranger things have happened. Besides, if you're skeptical at all...theres always that whole scientific fact of the better electrical connection which you can use to justify your choice to crimp.

I see your point on the collision angle, but I doubt the type of soldering that was shown in the OP would not break any easier vs a standard crimp. I guess we just disagree about that.

As far as what is a better electrical connection, obviously a proper crimps is best, but a crimp alone will quickly corrode, leaving you with a poor electrical connection. The soldered connection is not measurably less of an electronic connection in the realm of car audio. Maybe in a scientific lab, you could run test to show that as fact, but it will not hurt your burps or make you sub pound harder. It just makes more sense to give up the minimal electrical loss for the gain in wire protection.

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So, today I put in the new yellow top D34/78 under my hood and it turns out the +/- placement is different vs my old battery. As a result, my stock pieces were 5 inches short and can't go into the male header bolt thing.

I decided to create a ghetto extension cord with my 0 gauge + wire+terminals to attach the ends -.-. I made two of them; 1 for the positive and 1 for the negative.

I got to practice soldering with 4 ring terminals today.

My confusions are:

When I was pushing my solder against the ring and heating the back, the half puddle would get stuck and not form the puddle. I then manually put solder on the wires so that it wicks into the puddle. Is it correct to do this?

Also, I remember on one of the terminals the puddle would die and drip down into the wire and it would drip some drops of solder out the bottom. Is this bad, or is the puddle suppose to explode so I can add more solder "all and around"?

After we've solder, do I shrink wrap and then put that rubber thing that came with the ring terminal then electrical tape? What's the correct process?

Next, how the hell do you make the rubber thing fit (I bought the ring terminals from knuknonceptz)?


DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs

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So, today I put in the new yellow top D34/78 under my hood and it turns out the +/- placement is different vs my old battery. As a result, my stock pieces were 5 inches short and can't go into the male header bolt thing.

I decided to create a ghetto extension cord with my 0 gauge + wire+terminals to attach the ends -.-. I made two of them; 1 for the positive and 1 for the negative.

I got to practice soldering with 4 ring terminals today.

My confusions are:

When I was pushing my solder against the ring and heating the back, the half puddle would get stuck and not form the puddle. I then manually put solder on the wires so that it wicks into the puddle. Is it correct to do this?

Also, I remember on one of the terminals the puddle would die and drip down into the wire and it would drip some drops of solder out the bottom. Is this bad, or is the puddle suppose to explode so I can add more solder "all and around"?

After we've solder, do I shrink wrap and then put that rubber thing that came with the ring terminal then electrical tape? What's the correct process?

Next, how the hell do you make the rubber thing fit (I bought the ring terminals from knuknonceptz)?

Sounds like you need some flux. The flux is a gooey paste that you coat your wire and ring with, basically anywhere you want the solder to flow to, and it helps make the solder flow into all the voids in the connection. Also remember that the solder follows heat. So if you heat a general area, the solder will flow there. The shrink tube should be a little big before you shrink it. You need to heat it up after it is placed over the wire and terminal. You can use a heat gun or a light flame. Too hot will melt it and ruin it. You just want enough heat to shrink it tight.

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Sounds like you need some flux. The flux is a gooey paste that you coat your wire and ring with, basically anywhere you want the solder to flow to, and it helps make the solder flow into all the voids in the connection. Also remember that the solder follows heat. So if you heat a general area, the solder will flow there. The shrink tube should be a little big before you shrink it. You need to heat it up after it is placed over the wire and terminal. You can use a heat gun or a light flame. Too hot will melt it and ruin it. You just want enough heat to shrink it tight.

I'm not having problems with the shrink wrap lol. It's rubber thing that comes with the ring terminals that I"m having trouble with. It won't fit after I've added Shrink Wrap and then Electrical tape.

Again, what's the correct process?

Here's the rubber thing i'm talking about:

Posted Image

Also, I'm using "Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 60/40 .031" 1 lb. Spool"

Edited by moh.vze.com

DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs

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they are snug without anything under them. i use a colored heat shrink with adhesive and never use the boots if i can avoid it.


1st "System of the Month" Feb. 2007

Zapco Studio 500 each woofer

Zapco Studio 300X

Zapco Studio 204

(2) FI 12ssd's w/ copper coils

DLS Iridium Tweeters

DLS UR2.5 MidRange

Hertz 165L Midbass

Linear Power PAII-R

Audio Control 6XS

Audio Control Epicenter

Wrangler 160A Alternator

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they are snug without anything under them. i use a colored heat shrink with adhesive and never use the boots if i can avoid it.

What are boots?


DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs

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