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1 ohm vs 2, 4, 6 or 8 ohm


FreekDesignz

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im pretty sure they dont make a solo baric in a single 4 ohm just dual

94 lincoln mark viii

h/u: kenwood kvt 614 Excelon

comps: alpine type x

amps: mtx 1501d mtx 4004

sub:2 DC lv4 12

wiring jl audio 0awg 8 awg sub

jl audio 4 awg for mid and highs amp

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one must remember as well, that with a lower ohm rating generally comes a higher THD

is it noticeable? not normally, especially with subs

also a higher ohm load @ 1000 rms (example) will put more stress on your electrical system than a low ohm load @ 1000 rms

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from what I've been told, 1000 Real RMS@8 ohms, is the same as a Real 1000@1 ohm. ohm load just gives diff. wiring options

LOL WHAT???!! NO NO NO NO NO

Let me try and explain this..its much easier than you think, when you get it ull GET IT lol.

The less ohm load the AMP sees, the more power it produces. For example lets take a Hifonics amp; it makes 1200 watts rms at 1 OHM, but it only makes 900 watts rms at 2 OHMS. Think of ohms as a hill..the higher the ohm load the steeper the hill is. So at 8 ohms the hill is more like a wall..the "power" is using a lot of energy to run up that hill so once it gets over the hill it dosent have that much energy left. At 1 ohm the hill is more like a mound..the "power" needs very little energy to run up the hill so by the time it gets to the top its still got most if its power left. Kinda dumb example but it really makes it clear i think

When you go to buy a sub you will have different ohm options, some will be DUAL 4 OHM, some will be DUAL 2 OHM, some will be DUAL 1 OHM, and some will be SINGLE 4 OHM. There are many more options but those are the most common.

Next you will need to look at your amp, the amp will have an ohm rating which tells you how much power it can put out at a particular ohm load. If you amp does 1200 watts at 1 OHM, 900 watts at 2 OHMS, and 450 watts at 4OHMs, and you want to get the most out of your amp for the money then you will want to run a 1 OHM load since that is where the amp produces most of its power.

So now you know you need a 1 ohm load, you then go back to the subs you wanna get and pick out their ohm load:

-1 Dual 2 OHM sub can be wired to:

1 ohms, or 4 ohms

-1 Dual 4 OHM sub can be wired to:

2 ohm, or 8 ohm

-2 Dual 2 OHM subs can be wired to:

.5 ohm, 2 ohms, or 8 ohms

-2 Dual 4 OHM subs can be wired to:

1 ohm, or 4 ohms

here is a wiring calculator that will figure all of this stuff out for you: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

So in the end, you want to match the sub ohms with the amp ohms

DSC06330-1.jpg

91' Jeep Cherokee - The Heep

Just Empty Every Pocket

96' Volvo 960 - The B◘x

[sPL_4_U]

HiFonics - Alpine

Pioneer - Clarion

Infinity - Kicker

KnuKonceptz

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It's not an Ohm Load, it's resistance (actually impedance but hey, another day.)

One AMPERE of current with a one OHM resistance will give a potential difference across the circuit of one VOLT.

Welcome to Ohm's law. Enjoy your stay.

Cheers,

Mick

Work;
DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS Venice
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LOL WHAT???!! NO NO NO NO NO

Let me try and explain this..its much easier than you think, when you get it ull GET IT lol.

The less ohm load the AMP sees, the more power it produces. For example lets take a Hifonics amp; it makes 1200 watts rms at 1 OHM, but it only makes 900 watts rms at 2 OHMS. Think of ohms as a hill..the higher the ohm load the steeper the hill is. So at 8 ohms the hill is more like a wall..the "power" is using a lot of energy to run up that hill so once it gets over the hill it dosent have that much energy left. At 1 ohm the hill is more like a mound..the "power" needs very little energy to run up the hill so by the time it gets to the top its still got most if its power left. Kinda dumb example but it really makes it clear i think

When you go to buy a sub you will have different ohm options, some will be DUAL 4 OHM, some will be DUAL 2 OHM, some will be DUAL 1 OHM, and some will be SINGLE 4 OHM. There are many more options but those are the most common.

Next you will need to look at your amp, the amp will have an ohm rating which tells you how much power it can put out at a particular ohm load. If you amp does 1200 watts at 1 OHM, 900 watts at 2 OHMS, and 450 watts at 4OHMs, and you want to get the most out of your amp for the money then you will want to run a 1 OHM load since that is where the amp produces most of its power.

So now you know you need a 1 ohm load, you then go back to the subs you wanna get and pick out their ohm load:

-1 Dual 2 OHM sub can be wired to:

1 ohms, or 4 ohms

-1 Dual 4 OHM sub can be wired to:

2 ohm, or 8 ohm

-2 Dual 2 OHM subs can be wired to:

.5 ohm, 2 ohms, or 8 ohms

-2 Dual 4 OHM subs can be wired to:

1 ohm, or 4 ohms

here is a wiring calculator that will figure all of this stuff out for you: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

So in the end, you want to match the sub ohms with the amp ohms

ALRIGHT, that makes SO MUCH more sense, but what about a box???

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It's not an Ohm Load, it's resistance (actually impedance but hey, another day.)

One AMPERE of current with a one OHM resistance will give a potential difference across the circuit of one VOLT.

Welcome to Ohm's law. Enjoy your stay.

Cheers,

Mick

yes i realize that..but im trying to get things across clearly so he can understand better..what he dosent need is posts defining the word Ohm.

DSC06330-1.jpg

91' Jeep Cherokee - The Heep

Just Empty Every Pocket

96' Volvo 960 - The B◘x

[sPL_4_U]

HiFonics - Alpine

Pioneer - Clarion

Infinity - Kicker

KnuKonceptz

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I strongly suggest spending a couple days reading through bcae1.com.. Has some of the best info on all things car audio and explains things pretty well too.

To the OP - If you're looking for an amp that does a "legit" 2000w around 1ohm then you're gonna need some electrical upgrades to run the amp properly/safely. You can't just get an amp like an American Bass VFL200.1 and wiring to a stock electrical system in your car.

I see you already have the 3 D2 Kicker L5s, what is your budget for the amp?? Remember you're gonna need a proper electrical to back it up: HO alt(Ohio Gen, DC Power, etc)... good under hood batt(Kinetik 1000/1400, Northstar NSB-40, or similar)... big 3 upgrade in 1/0ga... big batt in back(Kinetik 2400, XS 3100, or similar), and the proper power/ground wires + other accessories to wire up the amp.

1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN.

Pioneer AVIC-N2

(12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each

Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s

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