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18" vs 2 15"s vs 2 12"s


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i say keep what you have now and re-due box

whats your max hight

Since the size of the sub only allows me to face it up, i can only make the box about 15" tall. but i can make it wider then it is now. I know my electrical needs some more work, amp is always turned way down until its fixed.

Edited by herbykw

06 300C 5.7 Hemi

K&N CAI

JVC KW-AVX640 6.1" DVD

DC Audio 3.5k

6 DC Audio 8"s

6 cubes 8" aero port at 32hrtz

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183798-chrysler-300c-8-build/?p=2731834#entry2731834

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I never understood how you wire 3 DVC subs to a usable ohm load. My amp runs at 1 ohm.

I dont think i would have the money for 3 subs

Here is a wiring diagram for 3 D2 woofers(should help u understand a lil better) - http://rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_w...mp;woofer_imp=3

My suggestion would be 2 12s or a single 15.. Enclosure firing forward, completely sealed off from trunk, and using a single 8" aero.

For the 2 12s I'd suggest: Atomic APX, American Bass VFL or HD(personal choice), DC LVL4xl, T3 T2000, DD 3512, AQ HDC3, etc... For the single 15: DD 9515g w/ kevlar cone(this would be my choice), TC 5200, Atomic APXX, RD HW, Mach5 SPL, T3 TSNS, etc.

If I were in your shoes I'd run a DD 9515g w/ white kevlar cone, black cap.. Like 4ft3 w/ 40in^2 of port using a single 8" aero. Double baffle, plenty of bracing, 45s, lots of resin/glass/filler then sanded smooth, and as mentioned before a single 8" aero.

Edit: before changing up your woofer(s) setup, get a rock solid electrical first. That Mojo is super power hungry and I've seen some ugly things happen to them with low voltage.

Edited by Marlo Stanfield

1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN.

Pioneer AVIC-N2

(12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each

Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s

26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area

156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace

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Here is a wiring diagram for 3 D2 woofers(should help u understand a lil better) - http://rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_w...mp;woofer_imp=3

My suggestion would be 2 12s or a single 15.. Enclosure firing forward, completely sealed off from trunk, and using a single 8" aero.

For the 2 12s I'd suggest: Atomic APX, American Bass VFL or HD(personal choice), DC LVL4xl, T3 T2000, DD 3512, AQ HDC3, etc... For the single 15: DD 9515g w/ kevlar cone(this would be my choice), TC 5200, Atomic APXX, RD HW, Mach5 SPL, T3 TSNS, etc.

If I were in your shoes I'd run a DD 9515g w/ white kevlar cone, black cap.. Like 4ft3 w/ 40in^2 of port using a single 8" aero. Double baffle, plenty of bracing, 45s, lots of resin/glass/filler then sanded smooth, and as mentioned before a single 8" aero.

Edit: before changing up your woofer(s) setup, get a rock solid electrical first. That Mojo is super power hungry and I've seen some ugly things happen to them with low voltage.

Yes, i have been using the fosgate wiring wizard for a while . I still dont understand how i can use a 1.34 or 3 ohm load. If i go with just one sub, i would just keep the Solo X.

06 300C 5.7 Hemi

K&N CAI

JVC KW-AVX640 6.1" DVD

DC Audio 3.5k

6 DC Audio 8"s

6 cubes 8" aero port at 32hrtz

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183798-chrysler-300c-8-build/?p=2731834#entry2731834

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id go with whut marlo said with the DD, thats a good idea. Or u can just do 2 12's if u want 12's but 2 15's imo is way too cramped for that space

2002 Dodge durango 4.7L

Autopage 2 way remote start alarm system

2 AQ 15 Aluminum coils.

1 AQ2200D (soon to be 2).

8.5 cubes tuned to 38hz.

Yellow top under hood.

Kinetik 1800 in rear.

Big 3.

(H/O Alt Soon to come)

Kicker ZX200.4

Kicker 6.5 doors (blown)

RF 6.5 comp set (soon to come)

1 run of Stinger 1/0 guage (soon to be 3)

All of the above is all gone

Currently own a 2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6

No audio components.

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I have about 7.9 cubes to work with. Unfortunatly if i do change up my system it will come down to $$$. I wont have much more then what i can sell the 18" for.

All the prices of the DD subs have been very high.

Edited by herbykw

06 300C 5.7 Hemi

K&N CAI

JVC KW-AVX640 6.1" DVD

DC Audio 3.5k

6 DC Audio 8"s

6 cubes 8" aero port at 32hrtz

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183798-chrysler-300c-8-build/?p=2731834#entry2731834

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For the price that you can sell the Solo-X for especially if you do so locally, then you shouldn't have any issues picking up a 9515g... Even with the less cone area I'd be willing to bet quite a large sum of money that a 9515g would be louder off the same power in the right enclosure.

1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN.

Pioneer AVIC-N2

(12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each

Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s

26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area

156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace

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i would go with 2 12's, at a car show i watch a guy hit 149.7, sealed on the dash with two soundstream spl quad coils, and 2 spl 3500's amps ( yeah the cheap SPL not Spl dynamics) all this was in a 2004 Impala. His sub was pointed back , port back.

i love this sh--t man 1966 Ford Fairlane Pioneer prs 80, the big three, with 2 big azz agm batts, dual 270/200 amp alts , two 8'' mids and tweets in the kick( PPI phantom 600.2). two 10''s and tweets in the doors, two 10'' mids and tweets in the rear decK ( Lanar opti 500x2). 2 C2 Audio Threatcon 4 12s on a Crunch GP3000d. No crossover .

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