Mostar Posted December 20, 2009 Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 I've designed and built 6 boxes so far. ( 3 of them ported) I think my designs turned out ok, but I still think if I let a more experienced person design one I can get more out of my equipment. Largest o/s dem would be: W45"X D25.75"X H21.75" If possible I would like to see the hieght come down about 2 inches to keep it even with the top of the back seats. Once above the the rear fender wells I have another 3-4 inches on each side to add to the width. I want it tuned to low 30's. Im cool with slot port or aero port, it doesnt matter... I want something that will hit the lows with no problem. My recent set ups have been all tuned to higher 30's. Equipment: (2) Fi Btl 18s, (2) Sundown SAZ3500Ds Thanx in advance to anyone that is willing to help a brotha out! Quote '05 GMC Envoy H/U: PIONEER AVH P4300DVD Subs: ( SA-12's Amps: (2) SAZ3500d's MECHMAN 270A Alt and 5 Batteries with lots of 1/0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mostar Posted December 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2009 Bump^^ Quote '05 GMC Envoy H/U: PIONEER AVH P4300DVD Subs: ( SA-12's Amps: (2) SAZ3500d's MECHMAN 270A Alt and 5 Batteries with lots of 1/0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Building Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Just noticing that you need more info for anyone to help you. You stated that you want the new box to ride the fender wells a bit while. This means you at least need the dimensions for the space between the fender wells and for the space on top of them (you would think it would be even, but sometimes it is not). You can probably design your own box if you do a little research. Try looking at ways to improve the efficiency of your port. Extra strength and bracing is always good, but your primary gains will come from how the port flows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treossi Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 more info could help out.. try tuning to 30hz Quote Team sundownWESTCOASTSPL.COM we're throwing dbdrag events very soon visit the website for details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mostar Posted December 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Just noticing that you need more info for anyone to help you. You stated that you want the new box to ride the fender wells a bit while. This means you at least need the dimensions for the space between the fender wells and for the space on top of them (you would think it would be even, but sometimes it is not). You can probably design your own box if you do a little research. Try looking at ways to improve the efficiency of your port. Extra strength and bracing is always good, but your primary gains will come from how the port flows. I re measured and i really cant get any wider or deeper. So the demensions I gave you guys would be the maximum. If tune any lower I will lose alot of air space. Would those BTLs do well in less that 10 ft^3? I am giving them a fair amount of power so would that work or not. This really sucks cuase I want to keep my back seat, and it is really cramped back there with 10 ft^3 box, 3 amps and 4 batts! Lol! Quote '05 GMC Envoy H/U: PIONEER AVH P4300DVD Subs: ( SA-12's Amps: (2) SAZ3500d's MECHMAN 270A Alt and 5 Batteries with lots of 1/0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanz Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 You ever tried aero ports? Quote That's why they don't deliver. Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait. You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mostar Posted December 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 You ever tried aero ports? No, but i would try it if I can make gains! Quote '05 GMC Envoy H/U: PIONEER AVH P4300DVD Subs: ( SA-12's Amps: (2) SAZ3500d's MECHMAN 270A Alt and 5 Batteries with lots of 1/0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AI James Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 11 cubes net 4 6" aeros 32hz tuning subs up port back or 12 cubes 160 sq. in port 32hz tuning subs up port back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Building Posted December 21, 2009 Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 (edited) Port shape. The following is a general description of the types of pressure losses involved with each commonly-used port shape: 1. Round Port= Low Head Loss (Drag) 2. Square Port= Medium Head Loss 3. Slot port= More Head Loss What this means is that, with a more efficient port shape, more of your enclosure's internal pressure finds its way into free-field as opposed to that same energy being dissipated inside the port. With your port more efficient at flowing air, the efficiency of your whole subwoofer system is improved. If your are currently using slot ports, you will definitely want to try one large round port (if possible). Since the round port is more efficient at flowing air than a square-shaped one, you will need less port area to flow an equal amount of air at similar pressures. Smaller port area makes your port shorter for the same tuning frequency, thereby saving your valuable box space. Since it is hard to find a 9 inch round pipe when you need it and it is hard to bend round ports, you may want to compromise and build a giant square port. Just make sure to build a 45 into it and smooth both the front and rear openings of the port (Tiger Hair or Bondo is better). Edited December 21, 2009 by Ben Building Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mostar Posted December 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2009 Port shape. The following is a general description of the types of pressure losses involved with each commonly-used port shape:1. Round Port= Low Head Loss (Drag) 2. Square Port= Medium Head Loss 3. Slot port= More Head Loss What this means is that, with a more efficient port shape, more of your enclosure's internal pressure finds its way into free-field as opposed to that same energy being dissipated inside the port. With your port more efficient at flowing air, the efficiency of your whole subwoofer system is improved. If your are currently using slot ports, you will definitely want to try one large round port (if possible). Since the round port is more efficient at flowing air than a square-shaped one, you will need less port area to flow an equal amount of air at similar pressures. Smaller port area makes your port shorter for the same tuning frequency, thereby saving your valuable box space. Since it is hard to find a 9 inch round pipe when you need it and it is hard to bend round ports, you may want to compromise and build a giant square port. Just make sure to build a 45 into it and smooth both the front and rear openings of the port (Tiger Hair or Bondo is better). Thanks for the great info! Since the my max internal vol before displacement will be 12.2 ft^3. What would be an efficient port area if I want to tune say.... around 32htz? Also where would be the ideal placement for the port? Quote '05 GMC Envoy H/U: PIONEER AVH P4300DVD Subs: ( SA-12's Amps: (2) SAZ3500d's MECHMAN 270A Alt and 5 Batteries with lots of 1/0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.