AssKicker Posted February 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 (edited) Wait I'm really confused now. My stock amp has a rear woofer (+ and -) for both woofers, and then a separate sound signal cable (+ or -). It is to my understanding that the LOC is mean for hooking up the signal that goes to the speakers because that signal is different, while the sound signal cable is the one I'm tapping into to get an rca lead. Edit: I figured it out! What i'm tapping into is the stock woofer amp, so the signal cables are set no conversion needed, just need to directly splice RCA plugs in. Edit 2: More reading reveals that my HU does not not change the response, instead the amp does that. What this means is the connection going from my HU to the Woofer amp is clean and low level. Edited February 9, 2010 by xboogyx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AssKicker Posted February 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Ok I figured everything out, 8 & 9 are speaker level, but the amp I am buying is speaker level compatible, so an 8 & 9 tap, along with a tap of the signal wire will be perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 im not sure what your saying your going to do now but i just want to make sure, you arnt putting the output wires on the factory amp to the input of the new HU are you? Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miakehl Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 im not sure what your saying your going to do now but i just want to make sure, you arnt putting the output wires on the factory amp to the input of the new HU are you? I think he just went there. I totally didn't think about a factory amp. Yes, you will have to use an LOC then. Quote [HOONIGAN]* '01 Ford F-250 LWBJVC KD-R950BT / Alpine MRV-M500 / (2) SWA-10s4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AssKicker Posted February 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Nooo those are the input but I'm just going to make it easy for future upgrades and grabbing miakehls LOC and tapping 23-26 (Rear door LH and RH speakers output). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaX Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Haji-its going to be easiest to use a LOC, although you do have to get to the back of your H/U to solder the wires to the unit itself Quote <div align='center'>03 RAV4 18" DC Level 4 XL Knukonceptz 1/0 gauge AudioQue 2200D 6.25 cubic foot box tuned to 32 hz DB Linc 200 Amp H/O ALT 1/0 BIG III</div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.