Neo_frog Posted February 10, 2010 Report Posted February 10, 2010 Batterys work together, im actually going to draw you a picture since your not understand what were saying.And to Neo, running a separate run of 1/0 from front to back is not necessary in this case. Also his car is Unibody so there is no "frame" per say Both batterys are to be grounded to the body of the car I was referring to dropping the distro blocks and chassis ground altogether, not adding another wire. Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/
Neo_frog Posted February 10, 2010 Report Posted February 10, 2010 And for the record, electricity flows from negative to positive in this application. Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/
Bunker Posted February 10, 2010 Report Posted February 10, 2010 And for the record, electricity flows from negative to positive in this application. Correct J&T DESIGNS M5 4 Audioque 15's copper coils dropping Audiopipe, and picking up DB DRIVE OKUR Powermasters XS POWER Dropping MaxxSonics Pioneer
sappst21 Posted February 10, 2010 Report Posted February 10, 2010 Just curious man, but why don't you just actually try some of the suggestions you are getting instead of just repeating the problem over and over and over? '05 CHEVY TAHOE Pioneer N4 | 4- MEMPHIS M3 12's ..... 2 DC LVL 4 XL's ON THE WAY | 1- MEMPHIS MOJO 4k | 2- Optima Yellow Tops Ohio Gen 295A Alt | Kicker 1/0 Wires, RCA's, & Connections | BIG 3 | SECOND SKIN SPL TILES [/center]
blackrosetiger Posted February 10, 2010 Report Posted February 10, 2010 well what kinda alternator dose he have ?? 105amp. He shouldn't try pushing more then 1000wrms on a 105 amp alt. Your alt cant keep up with the load demand. Upgrade the alt and you should be fine. 1998 Plymouth Voyager (daily) Jensen VM9213 H.U. (I Know but I havent had any problems.... yet) 5.25" Factory -> Sound Stream SST5.2 6x9 Hifonics ZXi 693 -> Sound Stream SST6.9 Amp: Class D: Crescendo 3KWP (x2) Class A/B: Crescendo 1000C4 Sub: Almani S-7 10" (x6)
Dro Posted February 10, 2010 Report Posted February 10, 2010 i say before you do anything, move your sub amps ground to somewhere else, even if you think it isnt that, very simple and very crucial trailblazer 18" xl aq2200 147.8db at 4 ohms
deaf_wish Posted February 10, 2010 Report Posted February 10, 2010 sounds like a ground problem to me My build. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/74265-project-clean-update-on-doors/ My other build. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/100534-two-c3s-and-a-mojo2500-under-the-seat/
SVT4LIFE Posted February 10, 2010 Author Report Posted February 10, 2010 ok i did a quick short vid im uploading it now and i am listening to what everybody has to say alt big 3 check door speakers for blown speaker reset all gains relocate grounds ill post the vid as soon as i have it up and running see if it will help any
STEvil Posted February 10, 2010 Report Posted February 10, 2010 105amp. He shouldn't try pushing more then 1000wrms on a 105 amp alt. Your alt cant keep up with the load demand. Upgrade the alt and you should be fine. I run 2KW+ on 105A alt, just gotta let it charge up sometimes.. and not run it all out all the time MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.
SVT4LIFE Posted February 10, 2010 Author Report Posted February 10, 2010 ok heres a quick vid for a better vision of my setup
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