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current system: Alpine HU, Clarion EQS746, Alpine Type R 12" in a custom ported box being powered by a Kicker 750.1, Kicker 350.4 powering Alpine and Polk Speakers, Rockford digital cap 1 farad, big 3 done in 4 gauge, stock battery (Duralast -_-), and stock alt. (70 amps).

at idle my volts sit at 14.8 and for some reason when i start driving it goes down to 14.5-14.6(before big 3 idle was @ 14.4-14.6). i do get voltage drops down to 11 volts on some songs/full tilt, but i think the big 3 helped out quiet a bit. before the big 3 the volts were worse. every time i see the volts go below 12 volts i back down on the sub volume on my EQ and it sounds pleasing to me.

i was planning to upgrade to a single 15" or 2 12s but i might be in the same situation due do my electrical system. dont get me wrong IMO this 12" is pretty loud for one 12" ;]. so should i invest in a batteries and a H/O alt.? id appreciate it if you can be specific on what brand of batts and alt. thank you for your time people.

Edited by imupabove

iDA-X200/Clarion EQS746

RF T500-1bd

(2) 12" RF HX's

Kicker 350.4

Alpine & Polk Speakers

Stock electrical

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I would definitely get a new bat and eventually new HO alt. the power your running isnt that substantial, but if your already seeing that much of a drop, your bat/alt might be goin soon. I personally prefer XS power bats and a couple companies for alts to look into would be Iraggi, DC Power, Mechman.

AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco

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Use 0/1 gauge. Get rid of all that 4 gauge, especially at the BIG 3 spot. I would suggest a HO Alt if you have $400+ to spend. If not, a small battery ( Kinetik HC600) would suffice until then. You could keep the cap I guess. Most will say get rid of it, I did with mines back then. Anyway, if you can afford it, HO Alt: DC POwer, Iraggi, Mechman

Battery: Xs, Kinetik, etc.

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Upgrade first ur electrical, BIIG 3 in O/1 gauge,

2. change ur batt under the hood, take the biggest and best what u can place, (Kinetik, XS, Stinger), maby u can get a nice offer in the "want to sale section"

Than can u switch to a second woofer and later u can put a second battery in the trunk together with better or H/O alt. So u can go step by step.

"in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley

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if i would of done the big 3 in the first place, would their have been a difference? i did the big 3 in 4 gauge b/c i thought it would matter if i did it in 0 gauge due to having stock electrical. should i do the big 3 in 0 gauge when i replace my battery under the hood?

iDA-X200/Clarion EQS746

RF T500-1bd

(2) 12" RF HX's

Kicker 350.4

Alpine & Polk Speakers

Stock electrical

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Four gauge is fine for the big 3 with what you are running.If you ever decide to run 5kw+ and need a few hundred amps of current, upgrade to 1/0. How long of a run is it from your battery to your alternator, 3-5 feet max?

When your car is running, the alternator supplies the voltage for all on-board electrical devices. While an additional battery would help for "key-off" playing time, AND provide additional capacitance to the system while the engine is running, you must remember that once your voltage drops due to heavy current demand, that extra battery becomes just another load on your stock alternator, just like your stereo system (and the capacitor; get rid of it!)

Upgrade the alternator, first. You cannot store energy you do not have.

Former USAC Director

MECP Certified First Class of 1997

First car in the world to register 150db from the dash and sealed, in the trunk of an escort, with 2 10 inch subs. In 1997:

http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=51;t=002600

Just my part in the modern development of SPL competition:)

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Four gauge is fine for the big 3 with what you are running.If you ever decide to run 5kw+ and need a few hundred amps of current, upgrade to 1/0. How long of a run is it from your battery to your alternator, 3-5 feet max?

When your car is running, the alternator supplies the voltage for all on-board electrical devices. While an additional battery would help for "key-off" playing time, AND provide additional capacitance to the system while the engine is running, you must remember that once your voltage drops due to heavy current demand, that extra battery becomes just another load on your stock alternator, just like your stereo system (and the capacitor; get rid of it!)

Upgrade the alternator, first. You cannot store energy you do not have.

Nonsens, 1 run 1/0 gauge is right gauge for over these amps, together over 1000 watts, and if the 750.1 rund on 4 Ohm 1/0 gauge is still right.

"in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley

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Four gauge is fine for the big 3 with what you are running.If you ever decide to run 5kw+ and need a few hundred amps of current, upgrade to 1/0. How long of a run is it from your battery to your alternator, 3-5 feet max?

When your car is running, the alternator supplies the voltage for all on-board electrical devices. While an additional battery would help for "key-off" playing time, AND provide additional capacitance to the system while the engine is running, you must remember that once your voltage drops due to heavy current demand, that extra battery becomes just another load on your stock alternator, just like your stereo system (and the capacitor; get rid of it!)

Upgrade the alternator, first. You cannot store energy you do not have.

best thing i have ever read from a noob. but another battery would help him to not drop into the 11's as easily

noob in the sense that your a member with not alot of posts

Edited by Kranny
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Nonsens, 1 run 1/0 gauge is right gauge for over these amps, together over 1000 watts, and if the 750.1 rund on 4 Ohm 1/0 gauge is still right.

Hmmm, ok? I said for the big 3, not for the amp runs. You have bought into some marketing hype somewhere along the line. Go back to physics and AC/DC 101 my friend...

Former USAC Director

MECP Certified First Class of 1997

First car in the world to register 150db from the dash and sealed, in the trunk of an escort, with 2 10 inch subs. In 1997:

http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=51;t=002600

Just my part in the modern development of SPL competition:)

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best thing i have ever read from a noob. but another battery would help him to not drop into the 11's as easily

noob in the sense that your a member with not alot of posts

HAHA Thanks. I am updating my sig right now so you guys will know a little about me.

Former USAC Director

MECP Certified First Class of 1997

First car in the world to register 150db from the dash and sealed, in the trunk of an escort, with 2 10 inch subs. In 1997:

http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=51;t=002600

Just my part in the modern development of SPL competition:)

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