Can stock electrical handle 1500 watts rms

[Boon]

You denying an alternator upgrade is like saying.. okay! moving to 16 volt batteries and charging them @ 19volts won't help you get any louder!! More voltage.. less amperage demand.. more power? Downsides? I can't think of any...

Let me see... you have to buy a huge stack of quite expensive batteries and then run a split charging system for the rest of your car. Why bother when you can get enough power at 12v to launch the cone out of any woofer you care to name. 16/18v is for people who are running out of space/weight to cram more power in. For the cost of making the switch to 16v I could probably get almost double my current power at 12v... and not worry about my amps running hot...

[skittlesRgood]

where are you guys measuring voltage? at the front batt, rear batt, or at the amp?

i only go into 13v at the front batt but at my amp i go into the low 12s - high 11s. so im basing my electrical needs on what the amp sees.

[Soulman07]

Let me see... you have to buy a huge stack of quite expensive batteries and then run a split charging system for the rest of your car. Why bother when you can get enough power at 12v to launch the cone out of any woofer you care to name. 16/18v is for people who are running out of space/weight to cram more power in. For the cost of making the switch to 16v I could probably get almost double my current power at 12v... and not worry about my amps running hot...

You completely missed the point though.. I wasn't SUGGESTING he made the switch to 16v or get another alternator. I was only pointing out the fact that more voltage is helpful with being able to supply demand. It would help produce more power so your equipment will thank you for it and also your amperage demand would be a lot less.

Whether you are holding it at 12,14,16,18 or whatever voltage you have is irrelevant to what I was saying really if you stop and think about it. More power is what we crave being bass heads.. some load up on batteries if their cars limit them on the amount of alternator/s you can install. Others would prefer getting a decent size alternator and save the battery space for more subs and amps.

I know you were sharing a bit of knowledge about the whole 16/18v systems so I ain't shooting you down in any way shape or form. I was just trying to help him get a bit better of an understanding of how things work.

We'll all have our own standards and preferences when it comes to doing something. So we aren't really here to win each other over... most people form decisions based off of the input of many, not just one person in particular.

Whatever route you decide to take is up to you in the end though.

[moh.vze.com]

i had the same power, same battery but with a 120amp alt. my lights dimmed so much they almost turned off. never measured voltage but it must have been 10's. so i have to completely disagree with the "no ho alt" argument. my car definitely needed one.

hmm. Interesting

[moh.vze.com]

bingo

stock 105a 03 grand am valeo alt

spv35 in back and front

4g on an re12.1 w/big3 and i saw 10v all the time

if u dont have voltage drop u dont have ur gain set right moh.vze, lol... to get 1400w u need over 100amps of current draw and theres no way unless u play quiet songs

I am pretty sure I have my gains set correctly. I used an oscope to tune everything.

One of my amps is 1200 watt rms for the subs and the other amp is for the DLS MS6A components which is only getting about 200 watt rms total.

(Or does it not work like this? More strain if it's 1400 watts rms for subs rather than adding the two powers?)

My voltage idles at 14.5V engine on and drops to around 13V avg on fulltilt decaf music.

Edit: actually I was listening to all of your tracks on your decaf zip 11 today and my voltage did drop to 12.7V range sometimes. That zip is probably one of your best

[loganberry]

i ran a stetsom 2kd in a ford excursion, stock alt stock batteries, voltage was horrible alt was only 130 amp, dropped crazy low, but it played fine for over a year before i sold the amp

[moh.vze.com]

where are you guys measuring voltage? at the front batt, rear batt, or at the amp?

i only go into 13v at the front batt but at my amp i go into the low 12s - high 11s. so im basing my electrical needs on what the amp sees.

I only got 1 batt but I remember calibrating my stinger voltmeter (wired to the amp in the trunk) to match the voltage of what my DMM said in the front battery.

[moh.vze.com]

i had the same power, same battery but with a 120amp alt. my lights dimmed so much they almost turned off. never measured voltage but it must have been 10's. so i have to completely disagree with the "no ho alt" argument. my car definitely needed one.

Clipped music probably

[xtremeacoustiks]

I actually still have my stock alt. with four batteries with the 2 ap30001ds and 2 ap2004s with the big 3 of course but I was at a show demoing and i stuck a quarter in my throttle bar and kept the engine at about 2 thousand rpm's and at the batteries in the back I was chargine at 14.9 volts and at full tilt never dropped below 13...not sure what size alt i have from the factory but it seems to work just fine for me

[Boon]

where are you guys measuring voltage? at the front batt, rear batt, or at the amp?

i only go into 13v at the front batt but at my amp i go into the low 12s - high 11s. so im basing my electrical needs on what the amp sees.

I get the same voltage give or take 0.2 or so throughout my system... either your wire is too small or you're losing a bunch of voltage somewhere... go through the system with a multimeter and find out where you're losing it.

Your electrical system should be like one big lump of copper, same voltage front, rear, at the pad where the power supply MOSFET is attached to the PCB...