dkindle613 Posted March 13, 2010 Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 so i need to hook up another battery in the back of my truck. my problem is all my equpiment is new and has 5 year warranty, shop i bought everything at said i HAVE to have a battery isolator to hook up another battery, and if i dont it will void all warrantys on both speakers and both amps. and 5 year warrantys arnt cheap as most of you may know. so my question is.. Is there any way to get around using a batt. isolator??? and if i do hook up another battery without an isolater. how possible is it that access voltage will go to the amps?? Please and Thank You for you advice David Quote WARNING: I speak 4 languages, profanity, English, sarcasm & real shit 2003 ford explorer 2 RF T1 D4 15s in a 6.8 cubic ft box 1 T1500.1bdcp 250amp ALT by Mike Singer 2 runs of 0 gauge 3 yellow tops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted March 13, 2010 Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 the only thing an isolator does is stop your front battery from draining if you play your system with the car off. it doesnt do anything to protect the system and not having one wont damage anything. just keep the car on when you bump. i think its just a way for them to get more money. i dont see any reason why it would void a warranty. sounds like another stupid shop to me. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnold1992 Posted March 13, 2010 Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 they lied to you Quote RE se xxx 18d2 (4) Audioque 2200 (2) DC Power 270XP blue 3 C&D fr310 Stinger wiring CDT components Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loganberry Posted March 13, 2010 Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 dont use one, i have seen so many people lose mulitple volts with one of those things just because napa or autozone told them they had to get one Quote My F-150 Build GET ON THE BANDWAGON what if they tried messing with the amps when the subs werent louder hahah jk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkindle613 Posted March 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 the only thing an isolator does is stop your front battery from draining if you play your system with the car off. it doesnt do anything to protect the system and not having one wont damage anything. just keep the car on when you bump. i think its just a way for them to get more money. i dont see any reason why it would void a warranty. sounds like another stupid shop to me. hahah yea the shop is mickey shorr, the best thing is, they tell me i need and isolator, and they dont even sell them, and they wont order me one, and if i order one, they will NOT install it for me either. i mean its a good shop and they do hook me up with deals, but they do make some very stupid decisions. like they ran both my power wires over my rca's... Quote WARNING: I speak 4 languages, profanity, English, sarcasm & real shit 2003 ford explorer 2 RF T1 D4 15s in a 6.8 cubic ft box 1 T1500.1bdcp 250amp ALT by Mike Singer 2 runs of 0 gauge 3 yellow tops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted March 13, 2010 Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 they wont install one... but void a warranty if you dont get one... i dont get it. is the warranty through them? if you blow an amp, cant you just take it out and tell them whatever they want to hear about your car? Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkindle613 Posted March 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 so how do i go about hookin the extra battery up? just run a + wire from batt under hood to batt in back? and can i ground the battery in the back of my truck IF i find a good enough spot to ground it??( can i ground battery in the back to same spot my sub amp is grounded too?) ooh and i should probably fuse the + wire too??? Sorry for all the questions but i would rather ask a million questions and get the know how to do somthing rather than going in blind and really F'in up my charging system, or my amps. thanks again Quote WARNING: I speak 4 languages, profanity, English, sarcasm & real shit 2003 ford explorer 2 RF T1 D4 15s in a 6.8 cubic ft box 1 T1500.1bdcp 250amp ALT by Mike Singer 2 runs of 0 gauge 3 yellow tops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkindle613 Posted March 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 they wont install one... but void a warranty if you dont get one... i dont get it. is the warranty through them? if you blow an amp, cant you just take it out and tell them whatever they want to hear about your car? it will only void the warranty if i hook up another battery without an isolator, or so im told. well my amps and subs have the standered warranty from rockford fosgate. but i also bought the 5 year warranty from the shop. and yes i supose i could but, im always up there asking them questions about stuff. and whenever im there i usally give other customers demos. therfor the shop gives me a 15% discount, not much but better than retail. Quote WARNING: I speak 4 languages, profanity, English, sarcasm & real shit 2003 ford explorer 2 RF T1 D4 15s in a 6.8 cubic ft box 1 T1500.1bdcp 250amp ALT by Mike Singer 2 runs of 0 gauge 3 yellow tops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted March 13, 2010 Report Share Posted March 13, 2010 yes, thats correct. fuse the + run at both ends because if the front fuse pops the back battery will still feed the short. you can run a - run the same way as the + or ground it in the back. find a thick piece of metal and sand off the paint. ground your amps to the back battery and ground your battery either way you want. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkindle613 Posted March 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2010 yes, thats correct. fuse the + run at both ends because if the front fuse pops the back battery will still feed the short. you can run a - run the same way as the + or ground it in the back. find a thick piece of metal and sand off the paint. ground your amps to the back battery and ground your battery either way you want. [/quot so a 200a fuse will work? so let me get this right, i can ground my amps on the battery in the back and ground the battery to my frame? Quote WARNING: I speak 4 languages, profanity, English, sarcasm & real shit 2003 ford explorer 2 RF T1 D4 15s in a 6.8 cubic ft box 1 T1500.1bdcp 250amp ALT by Mike Singer 2 runs of 0 gauge 3 yellow tops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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