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Alright so I plan on buying my first system which will go in my 1996 honda accord. Now being that I am just about to graduate high school I'm not exactly rollin in the money yet so I'm going for a single sub setup most likely, and something where I can run stock alt and battery for now. I was thinking on getting a 15inch Kicker L7 which I found here AudioSavings.com 15 Kicker And as far as my amp/wire and everything else I would need I was hoping you guys could help me out because I'm still new to the car audio scene and learning about stuff. Any suggestions on maybe a different sub, and helping me pick out things I need would be greatly appreciated. I look forward to being a fellow bass enthusiast and future spl competitor when I can afford to :)

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build your own box to save money and get the best results

sundown makes a nice amp around your power needs, the saz-1000. you can run it on 4g wire (look at knukonceptz or stinger for reasonably priced and damn good quality wires and connects, they even offer all in 1 kits)

add in a h/u and some knowledge and youre set.

dont get kicker from audiosavings. they arent authorized so you might get into a headache if you ever need warrantee work. http://kicker.com/internet_dealers <kicker official listing of authorized online dealers.

Edited by raytard

Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build

monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now)

Team DC

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The first thing to do is to try to learn the basics of car audio. Take some time to read all what you can here.

And come back with more informations so that the members can help you easily.

Budget, roow available for the box in the trunk, needs(hu?, speakers?,...), and more !!!

Good luck

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3  ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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im the same as you, about to graduate hs and gettin my setup finally almost done, but ive done alotta research.

that sub would be great to start out with. i mean dont expect any crazy flexing or anything like that, but you will deff get some good beat out of it. they are kinda expensive tho, so if you are on a budget, you may want to go with 2-3 cheaper 12's. you may also want to check ur local car audio shop and look for something already in a box. it helps alot, as tuning/porting and building your own box can become difficult. or atleast it was for me, but then again my box is a very awkward shape.

as for a good cheap amp, id go with audiopipe. i have a 3000d on my solo x and i havnt had any problems out of it. you really cant get a better deal for 350 bucks. but for you, you wouldnt need near that power, so just look for an audiopipe 1500 class d mono amplifier or a little less.

as far as wire goes, if you can afford it, grab some good knu 0g wire. you can get it online here: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=Power%20Wire

using 0g now will make the biggest difference. dont get the cheap walmart crap. i learned my lesson the hard way. its just a waste of money.

i would also look into doing the big 3 upgrade. search these forums for some more info. its basically just running 0g wire from ur alt to ur batt and and a 0g battery neg to a GOOD ground and 0 g to the amp.

also, grounding. grounding is very important. when running a ground from your amp, try to make it as short as possible, but to a good solid "shiny" metal surface. to the frame or shocks if possible.

and also a battery. if you can afford it grab an optima yellowtop under the hood, and if you can afford a second batt, use xs power or kenetic. one yellowtop under the hood or one kenetic or xs power under the hood should be fine tho.

dont do like me and get your speakers first, and then try and upgrade you electrical to meet the speakers needs. its completly drove me crazy. i just hate having to wait till the next check to get the nxt thing i need to get my system finally going. it sucks just having a super nice system in the trunk and you cant run it properly untill you get the wire or batt or whatever.

if i were you i would get wire first, then your battery and then save up and grab ur amp and sub at the same time.

when buying car audio, remember to always look at the rms watts. the max watts is just what it can handle for a split second, a "burp". you dont want to get subs that are 1000 watts max and an amp thats 1000 watts rms. i always get an amp thats not powerful enough to blow my subs. like for my set up, my sub can handle 5000 watts rms and 10000 watts max, but my amp only puts out 3000 watts rms, so i highly doubt ill ever blow my sub. unless i just completely screw everyhting up.

i hope ive provided some help. if theres anything i forgot to cover, ppl feel free to add on. or if im wrong, correct me.

oh, and check out youtube. i always like to look at others systems, and then see whats in my budget and get it. search around for some vids of that 15'' l7, so you know what to expect.

and dont forget to check out steves system =]

Work in Progress:

Custom '93 Nissan 240sx painted orange with custom orange & black interior.

18'' Kicker Solo X in a 6.6 cubic ft box, tuned to 35 hz

AudioPipe 3000 amp - possibly another sometime in the future

Shitty wire -knu 0g coming very soon

Stock alt - iraggi 200 amp alt coming pretty soon

optima blue top - xs power coming soon

suggestions? shoot me a pm.

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I have a 12" DC LVL 4 with a Sundown 1200D if you are interested... I will shoot ya PM. This set-up will blow out the the L7/shitty amp.

12" DC LVL 4

Sundown 1200D

PG RSDs

PPI PC2100

Alpine 9886

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