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Which subs to get


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oh yea i know those kickers slam, but i probably arent getting em'.....too expensive (Well not really but the power i would need to run them would be like $300 since i would need a new alt to run 2000 watts RMS total)

F/s: 2 custom made boxes, for 1 12" and 2 12" hit me up I'll let em go cheap

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buy a shuriken battery off fleabay and put it under your hood.. then go to knukonceptz.com and order some nice 4 guage.. the knu flekz

find yourself a used but in good condition audioque 2200d or brutus bxi 2606 (or newer years) get the audioque and call it a day.

Edited by chewie

91 dodge colt gt..

4 custom t600 15s

audioque 3500d.1

tuned to 25 hz... stay tuned.

blazer

stroker 15

brutus bxi2006d terrible voltage drop

145.4@38HZ... SEALED LEGAL

Aim: chewieft09

www.t3audio.com

carpe diez nuts !!

my house is louder than your car...

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sounds good.

the AQ im getting is a copper coil, so i will probably run a 1200 watt AQ amp (the one in the classifieds here)

if it were aluminum coil i would go with the 2200, but i dont want to risk blowing it.

u think 4 gauge is suficient...ive heard 1/0 would be better but you think 4 gauge is enough?

F/s: 2 custom made boxes, for 1 12" and 2 12" hit me up I'll let em go cheap

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i would need a new alt to run 2000 watts RMS total)

False. But price-quality, stick with AQ. Get at least a good secondary battery, i'm running my BXi2010d @ 1-ohm off of an HC1800 in the rear with stock battery and alt. up front, my voltage drops to 14.0 at full tilt on the most current consuming songs while driving, typically though I run at 14.4-14.6 on 90% of my music. Sitting still i can run full tilt for a while before dropping below 13.8. Basically, you'll be fine running 2k as long as you are smart about it, and don't sit idle for an hour at full tilt dishing out demos. There is always room to upgrade in the future once you get the cash. Theres no shame in not doing everything 110% "ideal" from the get-go, just like I said though, read up, get informed, and be smart about it. :)

1997 Chevrolet Cavalier Two 12" DC Audio XL M2'sCrescendo Audio BC5500d

Current Scores: 150+ out the Trunk

On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said:

Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not.

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im deff a fan of kicker so i would say for the money kicker is a good bang for the buck i run kickers in my truck and it slams

lulz

My POS Bass machine-
2003 Hyundai Santa Fe on some shitty 22's
Bed Liner Paint Job-Pioneer AVH 3200DVD
4 DAD BD series 15's in a 4th Order (Bassheads ENT Design)
4 Arc Audio XDI2000.1 for the woofers
6 Cadence CVL68MBX 6.5's-Cadence CVL88MBX 8's-6 Cadence XT20 Supertweeters
2 Arc Audio KS300.4's for mids and tweets
1 Arc Audio ALD 10v Line Driver
All Audiotechnix Power wire
1 DC Power 270XP High Output Alternator
1 XS Power D3400 up front....6 XS Power D3100's in the rear
Air Lift 1000 Bags in rear to help with suspension
If your still reading this GFY.......

6iW2jaE_zpsb3084721.png
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well if you can afford it go with the knufleks 0 guage.. but its pricey.. but totally worth it..

91 dodge colt gt..

4 custom t600 15s

audioque 3500d.1

tuned to 25 hz... stay tuned.

blazer

stroker 15

brutus bxi2006d terrible voltage drop

145.4@38HZ... SEALED LEGAL

Aim: chewieft09

www.t3audio.com

carpe diez nuts !!

my house is louder than your car...

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And never buy subs based on the statement that "they slams". :woot:

1997 Chevrolet Cavalier Two 12" DC Audio XL M2'sCrescendo Audio BC5500d

Current Scores: 150+ out the Trunk

On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said:

Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not.

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False. But price-quality, stick with AQ. Get at least a good secondary battery, i'm running my BXi2010d @ 1-ohm off of an HC1800 in the rear with stock battery and alt. up front, my voltage drops to 14.0 at full tilt on the most current consuming songs while driving, typically though I run at 14.4-14.6 on 90% of my music. Sitting still i can run full tilt for a while before dropping below 13.8. Basically, you'll be fine running 2k as long as you are smart about it, and don't sit idle for an hour at full tilt dishing out demos. There is always room to upgrade in the future once you get the cash. Theres no shame in not doing everything 110% "ideal" from the get-go, just like I said though, read up, get informed, and be smart about it. :)

Well for me, its more of a budget problem to get the 1200.1 rather than the 2200.1, but as you said, later down the road, i could always upgrade the amp.

Right now, im looking at shuriken batterys on ebay. If I went with one of those, and ran 4 gauge from the stock battery to the shuriken battery in the trunk, then from the shuriken battery positive terminal to my 2 amps (RF 400.4 for highs, AQ 1200.1 for lows) and grounded those amps to the negative post on the shuriken battery. Would that be a good setup, with out too much power loss? Keep in mind i will most likely do a big 3 upgrade on top of this.

I know better than to blast it for an hour straight (if that's what full tilt means), but for a few min blasting a few min at %75 power, would this setup be good? And of course, turn off all amps 15 min. before parking the car to charge up the battery's.

EDIT: i've figured out my enclosure cubic feet is 2.5 cubic feet (i took off .5 off each dimension for wood size already)

my port is estimated 28" long(didnt take out sub to measure slot), 9" deep (10 if u include the slot) and 1" wide at port.

Edited by boomin

F/s: 2 custom made boxes, for 1 12" and 2 12" hit me up I'll let em go cheap

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