Jump to content
Sonic Electronix

Fused distibution block and amp questions


Recommended Posts

I have my old visonik subs and amp hooked up and its of course got the in-line fuse near the battery, I have a second amp that I want to hook up to my MTX 6x9's (if they fit in the car) or one amp per sub.

Question 1: I bought a fused distribution block for dual amp hookup, do I need/should I keep the original in-line fuse as well?

Question 2: Both amps I have are very weak (different amps entirely too...I know, fail >.<), the first is a Lightning Audio LA1.150.2 and is a 150 watt amp. The second is a Denon DCA-500 and I believe it also has a wattage rating of 150 (anyone confirm?). Currently I only have the denon powering both subs. I dont have another amp to HU wire (I do have another power cable though) and the Lightning Audio amp has an Input and an Output so could I use a shorter audio cable and run the HU wire to the Lightning Audio input and a shorter audio cable from the output to the Denon?

Question 3: I have some standard 16 gauge wire, can I run that from remote of the Lightning Audio amp to the Denon and the Denon will turn on and off just fine with no worries?

Edited by Velvetdreams21

1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham.

Jensen UV10 DVD HU

Two 12" Sony Xplode (temporary)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have my old visonik subs and amp hooked up and its of course got the in-line fuse near the battery, I have a second amp that I want to hook up to my MTX 6x9's (if they fit in the car) or one amp per sub.

Question 1: I bought a fused distribution block for dual amp hookup, do I need/should I keep the original in-line fuse as well?

Question 2: Both amps I have are very weak (different amps entirely too...I know, fail >.<), the first is a Lightning Audio LA1.150.2 and is a 150 watt amp. The second is a Denon DCA-500 and I believe it also has a wattage rating of 150 (anyone confirm?). Currently I only have the denon powering both subs. I dont have another amp to HU wire (I do have another power cable though) and the Lightning Audio amp has an Input and an Output so could I use a shorter audio cable and run the HU wire to the Lightning Audio input and a shorter audio cable from the output to the Denon?

Question 3: I have some standard 16 gauge wire, can I run that from remote of the Lightning Audio amp to the Denon and the Denon will turn on and off just fine with no worries?

1. You need a fuse near the battery so you need to keep one there. It may not be the original fuse if you are adding another amp as the fuse may not be big enough for the 2 amps. Whatever you do, keep a fuse near your battery.

2. I think you are asking if you can use a speaker wire for the remote wire. If so then yes it will work.

3. Yes.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. You need a fuse near the battery so you need to keep one there. It may not be the original fuse if you are adding another amp as the fuse may not be big enough for the 2 amps. Whatever you do, keep a fuse near your battery.

2. I think you are asking if you can use a speaker wire for the remote wire. If so then yes it will work.

3. Yes.

Its not "speaker wire", according to the packaging its "Standard 16ga automotive wire" and on the wires themselves it says "16awg gauge primary wire". Not saying you're wrong bout it being speaker wire cause idk its the exact same stuff or entirely different.

Also I feel I need to clarify something bout the remote wire, I ment the wire running from the HU to the remote port and I add a second connector onto the remote bolt going to the second amp.

Ive been up all night so if this makes no sense, sorry

1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham.

Jensen UV10 DVD HU

Two 12" Sony Xplode (temporary)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got everything set up and now ran into something Im a little worried about, the Lightning Audio amp has 2 lights, one says Power and it turns on like it should, the other says Protect but it doesnt come on, does that mean its not grounded correctly?

Its grounded with 8ga wire and I filed down and used a drill with a wire attachment to get any paint off it.

Any ideas?

1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham.

Jensen UV10 DVD HU

Two 12" Sony Xplode (temporary)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got everything set up and now ran into something Im a little worried about, the Lightning Audio amp has 2 lights, one says Power and it turns on like it should, the other says Protect but it doesnt come on, does that mean its not grounded correctly?

Its grounded with 8ga wire and I filed down and used a drill with a wire attachment to get any paint off it.

Any ideas?

The protect light indicates that the amp has gone into protect mode. This could be because it got too hot, running at too low of an impedance, etc. You don't want that light to come on unless you fuck something up, in that case that light is your life saver letting you know the amp went into protect, hopefully instead of frying itself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh hey, Im pretty sure this is the last questions.

It had 2 switches and 2 knob. Switch one was Filter (LPF, Full, and HPF), Switch 2 was the bass boost (0db or 12db), Knob one was Level (Min-max), Knob 2 was x-over (40hz-400hz).

Did I do all these right?

1. Filter set to LPF since its subs and I dont need mid or treble going to them.

2. Bass boost to 12

3. Level all the way (subs can handle 300 each, are currently getting 150 each)

4. x-over set to 40hz.

Sound good?

Sorry for the dumbass questions

1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham.

Jensen UV10 DVD HU

Two 12" Sony Xplode (temporary)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First, don't use the bass boost. Second, you don't want the gain all the way up. Use the search button to find many topics on setting gain. And xover btween 70-90 depending on your mids.

+1, Turn bass boost all the way down to 0 db. If you don't have the tools to set your amp's gain correctly, try and match it to your decks output voltage. i.e. if minimum on amp is 8v and maximum on amp is .2v and your deck is putting out 2v, set it somewhere around 3/4. Your Crossover is going to be what frequency your subs stop play at, so you're going to want to set that around 70-80. If you set it at 40, you aren't going to hear much bass just the lower notes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 805 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...