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3 18's Ported Box In A 1995 Deville...


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okay, you disengage any bass boost or eq's. then you play a 40hz test tone. Measure the AC voltage at the speaker outputs with a dmm, and then square that number. Divide it by your ohm load, and boom, a rough estimation of watts.

The accumulation of the fuses only approximates the maximum capable power of the amp.

A couple links to some box builds:

Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI,

Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150

My own car builds (current setup --- under construction):

Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors

Subwoofer Wall

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its really simple, but you need a voltmeter or ammeter/amperage meter, the fuse deal is very un reliable... its really simple,

amperage DRAW x's Voltage at amperage draw, so if it has 3-30amp fuses, but only draws 60amps, at 13.8volts its only about 828watts... if you have alot of fuses to burn, you can get pretty accurate by finding out at what point the fuses fry, and multiply by the voltage drop say constant voltage of 13.8, but when the fuses pop 12.5 multiply the 2

simple

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I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy.
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you can check watts by a formula cant remember it exactly though.

i seen some sights say 1200rms at 2 ohm and some say at 1 ohm.. im not sure

but its a really good amp..

but i heard you can take the fuses and the wattage figure out the rms...

since it has 3 30 amp fuses you take the 12 from the 1200 and times the 12x90(the 3 fuses all together)=1080rms...but im not sure if thats right i could be wrong.. but 1080 rms is really good though...

yean man can you get me the formula maybe after you get some rest ..

okay, you disengage any bass boost or eq's. then you play a 40hz test tone. Measure the AC voltage at the speaker outputs with a dmm, and then square that number. Divide it by your ohm load, and boom, a rough estimation of watts.

The accumulation of the fuses only approximates the maximum capable power of the amp.

its really simple, but you need a voltmeter or ammeter/amperage meter, the fuse deal is very un reliable... its really simple,

amperage DRAW x's Voltage at amperage draw, so if it has 3-30amp fuses, but only draws 60amps, at 13.8volts its only about 828watts... if you have alot of fuses to burn, you can get pretty accurate by finding out at what point the fuses fry, and multiply by the voltage drop say constant voltage of 13.8, but when the fuses pop 12.5 multiply the 2

simple

May I step in here since I am taking courses in becoming an engineer...

The processto find RMS output for an amp works like such if the amp is 1ohm stable:

FUSE RATING X car voltage, then that number X .707 this will get you very close to your rated rms output. Those MA audio amps ARE NOT capable of producing 1200watts rms ESPECIALLY at 2ohms.

4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz

1- T1000.1bd's

3 Maxx 29 deep cycles

4 runs of 1/0 gauge

-Big 3

-Trunk sealed off from the cabin

Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module

All in a CAR.

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May I step in here since I am taking courses in becoming an engineer...

The processto find RMS output for an amp works like such if the amp is 1ohm stable:

FUSE RATING X car voltage, then that number X .707 this will get you very close to your rated rms output. Those MA audio amps ARE NOT capable of producing 1200watts rms ESPECIALLY at 2ohms.

Thats still very theoretical, seeing as the fuse rating is constant over every amp, but the power output differs. For instance, my T10001 and yours may put out completely different amounts of power, but we still have the same fuse rating. Measuring the AC voltage therefore is quite a bit more accurate.

A couple links to some box builds:

Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI,

Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150

My own car builds (current setup --- under construction):

Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors

Subwoofer Wall

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Yes, I suppose it is, but if you want to quickly estimate what kind of power you will be buying BEFORE you buy it, I can't think of a better or quicker way for that matter for "On the spot" usage.

4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz

1- T1000.1bd's

3 Maxx 29 deep cycles

4 runs of 1/0 gauge

-Big 3

-Trunk sealed off from the cabin

Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module

All in a CAR.

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True, I guess so, its just real rough. All that basically does is take into account average class d efficiency. Maybe i'm a stickler tho lol...We'll just agree that theres plenty of different ways to estimate it.

A couple links to some box builds:

Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI,

Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150

My own car builds (current setup --- under construction):

Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors

Subwoofer Wall

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why you say that

fewer/smaller subs in optimal enclosure and firing to the rear will be louder than more larger subs shoved in smallish boxes....

Team Devastation Mixed Martial ArtsMachado Brazilian JiujitsuOnce I lock it on there's no escape I don't train to make you tap, I train to tear your arm, leg, or head off. Its your job to tap before I can do that -Pain is only weakness leaving the body, its kill or be killed and only the strong survive...Rockford FosgateDigital DesignsFi Car AudioCrossfire Car Audio

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