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There in okay shape, only thing is there cheap ones you could put them back in and they wouldnt hurt but when you build up rust in those areas id use a air hose to flush out anymore rust chips that are down there. On my old dodge truck we put new spark plugs in it but there was rust down in there and we didn't blow it out so the new ones didn't work like new.

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They should... I told the auto parts store what vehicle and motor everything...

Most of the time the auto parts guy don't know much more than you do... Do your research on what brands make quality parts. i.e. My OEM AC Delco's run way better than the cheap shit like Bosch or Autolite...

Just cause it costs more doesn't mean its better. IMO replace with Motorcraft plugs of the same part number.

OEM will work flawlessly time and time again.

Derp.

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Did 3 with Motorcraft's... Can't get the drivers side cause my ratchet extension is too long... lol

Now it's fucking cutting out at ~40mph...

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1977 Chevy SWB

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the second in from the left looks okay the others look a little wet like they were not firing correctly you want your plugs to have a tan color to them not sooty or black ash

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stock battery and a stinger spv44

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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/55075-system-in-my-300c/page__view__findpost__p__763656__fromsearch__1

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  • 2 weeks later...

First off you don't get a true reading from just looking at the tips of the plugs. You need to get in the sunlight and look down in towards the base of the plug to get the most accurate reading. Trust me I deal with a lot of Nitrous applications and you have to know how to read plugs efficiently when messing with that kinda stuff. You can buy cold plugs and hot plugs...in other words whatever the number stated on the plug is then you can go up or down a number or two to gain a hot or cold plug. Also the reach of the plug makes a difference also.

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The family truckster

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