STEvil Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 I gatta be honest, this is all stuff i have heard. I don't have much experience and i pretty much believe the things that make sense to me. You may be right, i don't doubt that i am wrong. heck, pyle 21's are supposedly good at about 170hz+........... MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassl0va Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 I gatta be honest, this is all stuff i have heard. I don't have much experience and i pretty much believe the things that make sense to me. You may be right, i don't doubt that i am wrong. Trust me man, he's right im loving the guts of it, to interesting. Glad to see some more interest! heck, pyle 21's are supposedly good at about 170hz+........... I'd pay someone to put them in their doors My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickyMcD Posted May 14, 2010 Report Share Posted May 14, 2010 ... as far as mixing subs goes... there are actually some people who will argue that point. The fact of the matter is 10s don't hit like 12s don't hit like 15s don't hit like 18s If that makes sense. In my mind 18s and 15s are for way lows, like below 30 hz, and 12s are better for 30-38. Any hz higher is best with a 10. Now you've done it, I've had to dig up my old soapbox. That's a crock of shit. I couldn't care if there are people who argue the point, as it is still absolutely wrong. A particular driver of any given size in a particular mechanically resistive environment with a particular density of air has a 'sound'. Place that same driver in a different environment and I can assure you it will sound completely different. It is wrong to assume that each size of diaphragm has a particular timbre. And what do you mean 'hits like'? I don't understand. Do you mean a 10" driver has a different transient response? What does 'hit' mean in loudspeaker nomenclature. Also, diaphragm size does NOT dictate low requency extension. What diaphragm size indicates mostly is moving mass, effeciency and resonant frequency (amongst others). Very early loudspeakers were quite commonly very large, as the driving force behind them was very low thus requiring more air movement per joule than a smaller design. Furthermore, where do you people get this information? 'Any hz higher (that 38Hz) is best with a 10'? First, please use correct nomenclature. I'm not attacking you in any way, but it does make it easier to help you and easier to understand when the correct terms are used. I disagree with 'Any frequency higher than 38Hz is best with a 10" completely. Ever heard of an EV MTL-4? SP218? AR218? These are large format subwoofer boxes (the AR and SP being 2x18", the MTL-4 being 4x15") with a low frequency limit of around 40Hz (MAXIMUM). But by golly, anything above that is fun. A well known loudspeaker manufacturer by the name of Thomas Danley developed practical use for Tapped Horns. One of his designs, the TH-SPUD, used a pair of eight inch drivers to drive a usable response to 17Hz. This goes against the idea of 'big drivers, low sound', and it's real, therefore "nyah-nyah". I am in no means attacking you nor your ideas, but this one is wrong. Driver design is a tricky thing, and it is not one variable that defines how it operates. And soapbox gone. Cheers, Mick Work;DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS VeniceMeyer Sound CQ-1's, CQ-2's, PSW-2'sRAMSA Monitor AmplifiersP.Audio MonitorsBSS OMNIDRIVE and SoundwebDBX 231 and Klark Teknik DN360 EQ'sRCF TT22ARCF ART320 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 Now you've done it, I've had to dig up my old soapbox. That's a crock of shit. I couldn't care if there are people who argue the point, as it is still absolutely wrong. A particular driver of any given size in a particular mechanically resistive environment with a particular density of air has a 'sound'. Place that same driver in a different environment and I can assure you it will sound completely different. It is wrong to assume that each size of diaphragm has a particular timbre. And what do you mean 'hits like'? I don't understand. Do you mean a 10" driver has a different transient response? What does 'hit' mean in loudspeaker nomenclature. Also, diaphragm size does NOT dictate low requency extension. What diaphragm size indicates mostly is moving mass, effeciency and resonant frequency (amongst others). Very early loudspeakers were quite commonly very large, as the driving force behind them was very low thus requiring more air movement per joule than a smaller design. Furthermore, where do you people get this information? 'Any hz higher (that 38Hz) is best with a 10'? First, please use correct nomenclature. I'm not attacking you in any way, but it does make it easier to help you and easier to understand when the correct terms are used. I disagree with 'Any frequency higher than 38Hz is best with a 10" completely. Ever heard of an EV MTL-4? SP218? AR218? These are large format subwoofer boxes (the AR and SP being 2x18", the MTL-4 being 4x15") with a low frequency limit of around 40Hz (MAXIMUM). But by golly, anything above that is fun. A well known loudspeaker manufacturer by the name of Thomas Danley developed practical use for Tapped Horns. One of his designs, the TH-SPUD, used a pair of eight inch drivers to drive a usable response to 17Hz. This goes against the idea of 'big drivers, low sound', and it's real, therefore "nyah-nyah". I am in no means attacking you nor your ideas, but this one is wrong. Driver design is a tricky thing, and it is not one variable that defines how it operates. And soapbox gone. Cheers, Mick First off i just want to say i am terribly sorry if i upset you, offended you, or anything like that. I had talked to people who have had every type of builds, 30 something tens, 10 or 15 fifteens, 8 eighteens, and they said things like "The loudest to the ear were the tens, but the hardest hitting [in the chest] were the fifteens and eighteens. I thought that with a smaller cone, or diaphragm the better performance it would give in the higher frequencies. If this is a crock of shit then it is what it is and i am completely wrong and will not argue it further. As for driver designs, i completely agree, there are things that look like fans that are used to drive air. Again i am extremely inexperienced and i am not saying in public that what i said was wrong and driven from a false theory. My sincerest apologies. i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 26, 2010 Report Share Posted May 26, 2010 First off i just want to say i am terribly sorry if i upset you, offended you, or anything like that. I had talked to people who have had every type of builds, 30 something tens, 10 or 15 fifteens, 8 eighteens, and they said things like "The loudest to the ear were the tens, but the hardest hitting [in the chest] were the fifteens and eighteens. I thought that with a smaller cone, or diaphragm the better performance it would give in the higher frequencies. If this is a crock of shit then it is what it is and i am completely wrong and will not argue it further. As for driver designs, i completely agree, there are things that look like fans that are used to drive air. Again i am extremely inexperienced and i am not saying in public that what i said was wrong and driven from a false theory. My sincerest apologies. every car is different. shit, every car of the same MODEL and YEAR is different. from a video with super steve from DD and pete kulicki, steve was telling a story about how he or his friend had 4-5 CRX's. and he put a system in one, metered it, put the SAME system in another car, metered it and etc for the others. there was a difference of something like 5db between the lowest and highest numbered car. not every car has the same performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassl0va Posted May 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2010 I think I have got a fix! Not a re-cone either, this will be interesting... My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted May 27, 2010 Report Share Posted May 27, 2010 I think I have got a fix! Not a re-cone either, this will be interesting... Hahaha, i wanna see this... i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickyMcD Posted May 27, 2010 Report Share Posted May 27, 2010 I think I have got a fix! Not a re-cone either, this will be interesting... Toilet paper roll! And to ol' matey, you didn't offend me at all. Just want you to know that your hypothesis is incorrect. No hard feelings at all champion. Cheers, Mick Work;DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS VeniceMeyer Sound CQ-1's, CQ-2's, PSW-2'sRAMSA Monitor AmplifiersP.Audio MonitorsBSS OMNIDRIVE and SoundwebDBX 231 and Klark Teknik DN360 EQ'sRCF TT22ARCF ART320 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassl0va Posted May 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2010 Hahaha, i wanna see this... Yep it should be interesting. Toilet paper roll! And to ol' matey, you didn't offend me at all. Just want you to know that your hypothesis is incorrect. No hard feelings at all champion. Cheers, Mick Not quite that ghetto, but I'll try that if my current idea doesn't work My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatBox Posted May 28, 2010 Report Share Posted May 28, 2010 That's a crock of shit Cheers, Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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