Distribution block question

[finkster]

whats up.

Like said before. run from the back battery directly to the amps if possible, it shouldnt be that long.

the 1000.1 has 3 40 amp fuses and the 4125 has 2 40 amp fuses.

If you really want to use a d block then just get one for the positives and one for the negatives. Of course i dont know of any that accept...say...2/0 and then split into 2 1/0s and an 8.

[finkster]

you need to fuse anywhere between a batt and anything else within 10 inches.

so if u run 3 positives from the batt to 3 different amps then u will need 3 fuses just for that.

You also should fuse for the wire, not what the amp is rated at.

for example, knu klmx has a 250 amp rating i believe.

[JZeFF]

So my best bet seems to be to run all three straight to the battery with a fuse on every single positive line, correct?

Also, the Knu Fleks that i have has an amp rating of 300amps... so i am assuming i want 300 amp fuses on it?

And the 8 gauge has an amp rating of 50... would it be okay to use a 60amp fuse? Cuz i already have one..

What i don't understand is why the 4125 has two internal 40amp fuses... but the input wire is only 8 gauge wire?

Edited May 12, 2010 by JZeFF

[finkster]

So my best bet seems to be to run all three straight to the battery with a fuse on every single positive line, correct?

Also, the Knu Fleks that i have has an amp rating of 300amps... so i am assuming i want 300 amp fuses on it?

And the 8 gauge has an amp rating of 50... would it be okay to use a 60amp fuse? Cuz i already have one..

What i don't understand is why the 4125 has two internal 40amp fuses... but the input wire is only 8 gauge wire?

I ran that hellfire with a short run of 4 gauge to be honest. The amp never got warm, and 4 gauge can take 120 without a sweat.

The answer to your 8 gauge question is that most of the 8 gauge wire charts i have seen say that 8 gauge is capable of eighty amps. Again, if the batt is in the trunk and close I wouldn't worry about it.

If you choose to run 4 gauge then there are plenty of d blocks that will accept 1/0 in and 2 4 gauges out, and you could run a separate 8 gauge wire for the 4125.

It's fine to run a smaller size fuse but just know that it will blow before what the amp may pull safely

Power ratings for that amp can get close to 200 watts x 4 at 2 ohms on all channels so close to eighty amps may be pulled in that situation.

Edited May 12, 2010 by finkster

[JZeFF]

I ran that hellfire with a short run of 4 gauge to be honest. The amp never got warm, and 4 gauge can take 120 without a sweat.

The answer to your 8 gauge question is that most of the 8 gauge wire charts i have seen say that 8 gauge is capable of eighty amps. Again, if the batt is in the trunk and close I wouldn't worry about it.

If you choose to run 4 gauge then there are plenty of d blocks that will accept 1/0 in and 2 4 gauges out, and you could run a separate 8 gauge wire for the 4125.

It's fine to run a smaller size fuse but just know that it will blow before what the amp may pull safely

Power ratings for that amp can get close to 200 watts x 4 at 2 ohms on all channels so close to eighty amps may be pulled in that situation.

Thanks finks!

You know your shit, haha.

Gotta decide if i want to use 0 gauge or 4 gauge for the 1000,1

I have some extra 0awg Knu Fleks i planned on using...

And i will probably end up running the 4125 with 4 gauge

Edited May 12, 2010 by JZeFF

[finkster]

Bigger wiring is always better, don't let me steer you away from it. If you have the extra wire then sure, use it.

Big wires look badass anyways. The money u spend on a fused d block will be more than just doing more runs.

i also ran 8 gauge on my 4125.

If you run 4 gauge on the 4125 then u will need a reducer. Here you go.

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/SFV/30046/vpid/1557389/vpcsid/0/rid/123284

Edited May 12, 2010 by finkster

[97SSBlazer]

Holy hell... something MAY have just clicked in my head...

Amps have internal/replaceable fuses on the side so that you do not need to run another fuse in the positive line?

If i'm right, noob mind = blown

BTW, thanks ISO, i really appreciate your helping me.

EVEN IF the amp has a fuse inside I always fuse it anyways, and no matter what EVERY Positive wire the comes off the POSITIVE battery post MUST be fused.

[JZeFF]

Alright my shopping list :

2x ANL fuse holders with 300amp fuses for the 1000.1's

1x Mini ANL Fuse holder with 100amp fuse for the 4125

1x 300 amp fuse for my pre-existing "big 3" upgrade

Everything look right?

[97SSBlazer]

Yea. Should work out fine. I didn't fuse my big 3 but i think about it all the time and I really might fuse it LOL.

[kingsuv]

Doing a single run from the front battery of a AWG standard 1/0 wire will be fine. You will most likely never pull the full 300 amps through the wire. For best results I like to do an equal run of negative wire. With the way cars are constructed you just never know how well the grounding is through the frame and or unibody.

Having 2 amps with 1/0 terminals can be difficult to find a 1/0 in and 2 1/0 out. They do exist so check around. You can also make your own with a little work. The 8g for the 4125 will be the least of your worries as it can tie in anywhere. All the amps are fused at the boards so this makes it easier to find distros that will work for you.

As far as running 4g to the 1/0 on the amps. We can't recommend it as it can cause a lose connection at the input. Does that mean you will have power flow issues to the amp in a short run? No, does it make it difficult to get a snug fit on a smaller wire? yes. we did the 1/0 inputs as an over kill on the amp. we feel that 1/0 wire should be the minimum anyone should run for power wire from the front to back of the car. Anything smaller is unacceptable these days with any amp.