Simple System Question

[DJ_BigC]

I would like to say Hi! to everyone,

This is my first topic/post, but have been doing lots of reading over the past few months. Some systems I have seen on here have simply blown me away, and lets just say that my system well simply doesn't compare to some of your master pieces. If I were to build a system half as loud or with half the bass I would embarrass everyone here at home haha.

Here's my system up until now.

I currently drive a 2 door Pontiac Grand Am GT, and lets just say the stock system just straight up blew big ones. This winter I had the chance to purchase two 10" Alpine Type S subs(2 ohm, 300 RMS, 900 Peak) brand new in box for 40$, yes 40$ brand new!!! These are running off an Alpine MRP-M500 single channel amp, wired with Stinger 4 gauge power and ground wire and fuse holder, 16 gauge speaker wire and monster cable 400 series RCA interconnects. I went out and bought a new head unit, something simple, the Alpine IDA-X303, (16WX4, 45X4 Max) great deck for the price, I have had no problems with it what so ever . I also bought some Alpine Type S SPS 4X6 (45 RMS, 90 Peak) front speakers to upgrade from the stocks. Up until now everything's running, and sounding spectacular for me, but I want a little more power.

Alright so these are my questions,

I don't want to run an external amp to power my speakers, I wanted to possibly run the Alpine KTP-445 (45WX4) power pack. Its small and simple to install and has a decent price tag attached to it but my head units max output is 45WX4 which is the same as the power pack, will I be able to plug it into my head unit without any problems?? From my understanding I should be able to, but im just double checking. Also, will this power pack make my speakers louder and sound clearer, im pretty sure they will be but again just checking up for a second opinion. If I decide to install the power pack, from my understanding, I will need to upgrade my rear deck speakers, the paper stocks wont cut it so I was thinking of matching my fronts with my rears, I was gonna get some Alpine SPS 6X9 which are 85W RMS, 260 Peak. Will the head unit and the power pack have enough power to power these up? I'm really not sure on how this all works, I have an idea but nothing I would like to stand by my word for. I would also like to add a capacitor to my system, I was thinking a 1 farad stinger cap with a LED read out seems about right but then again if someone can suggest something better I'm open to all offers.

Here are some links to some of the stuff to help you guys out,

Head unit

Power Pack

4X6 Speakers

6X9 Speakers

Subwoofer

Amplifier

Capacitor

I really hope someone can help me out. I know my whole system is Alpine, but we have one reputable store around here and they only sell Alpine and I personally think they make some good car audio equipment for a good price, figured I'd stick with one whole company. I'm not looking to go bigger, just something simple that sounds great.

DJ BigC

Edited May 15, 2010 by DJ_BigC

[Alex K]

I really envy how you took the time to write this up! I feel bad nobody has responded yet so I am going to help you the best I can.

Yes, that HU is great. It will match your system perfectly with the whole Alpine thing they have going on. Alpine is a good brand. I would stay away from that power pack thing, and just get an external 4 ch amp to run your speakers. I know you don't want to, but in the end it's so much better and will make your speakers sound 10x better. They're so much easier to access and change controls if you ever need to. Where as that PP is behind your HU and a pain to get to if you have a tight space to work with. That HU stock will make your speakers loud, but they'll distort quickly at high volume with 14 watts. I would look for a decent 4 ch amp around the forums under the for sale section, or check out sonicelectronix, or ebay, you can find a decent one for a cheap price tag.

That sub is great. Are you making your own box? Run 300W rms to it. Please never look at peak and judge off that. Always look at RMS. That's what your sub will pull normally.

Also stay away from caps. Theyre just another strain for your alt to charge. Just upgrade to the "big 3" and maybe upgrade your front battery to a yellowtop or so and you'll be fine.

But yes you are on the right track. If you need anything else explained just let us know.

Edited May 15, 2010 by Alex K

[DJ_BigC]

Thanks a lot for the reply,

Ya if I were to get a 4 channel amp, I would match it with the MRP-F300. But you are completely right, as soon as I turn up my volume past say 10-13, they start to distort. As for the power pack, I was going to either extend the wires or make it accessible in some kind of way, I had thought about that. Wire soldering, and extending isn't a problem. I have plenty of room behind the dash worst case scenario to put it behind there. I'm just trying to keep this as easy as possible for myself and I also know that you get what you pay for just so were on the same page.

As for the big three upgrade, I read up on it, and to be really honest, I really don't think im capable of doing such thing without f***ing everything right up, and well since this is my daily driver I cant really afford to mess things up, that's why i was thinking a cap, but my lights only dim when I really slam them to some Psyph Morrison, and a few other tracks. My volt gauge never even budges when I listen to some normal hip-hop, rock etc... So technically you think I don't need a cap, and it would be a useless upgrade, but if i do put one in, will i notice a significant difference? Or is it a one way ticket to a burnt alternator. A battery upgrade also is a great suggestion, thanks.

As for the box, I bought a ported American Bass box, the TLE 210. I don't have time to build a box, and there isn't a hardware store in town here that sells MDF, so that's basically why I didn't build one.

As for my rear deck speakers, I want some Type S 6X9's. Their 85W RMS, If I decide to get the power pack, will it have enough power to power these up properly, or will they sound distorted because of the lack of power going to them.

Edited May 15, 2010 by DJ_BigC

[bassl0va]

I'd say get a proper 4 channel amp too. It's a better investment.

With the big 3, it's really easy, unless your vehicles engine bay is super crowded.

If you have your engine running you won't be dropping below battery voltage, you'd hit 12v in the worst case, which is fine. A wise man once said 'This website has a boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades' his wise words are mentioned in my signature. He has also said that only the term lab cares for voltage drop, which is very true (unless your dropping to like 10v or less, which is near impossible unless you have 20kw on stock electrical), a person can not notice the difference between a amp running on 13.8v and a amp running on 12v, and the amp doesn't mind much either.

There is not much point in a cap, some people notice a change, but I'm sure you'd just be throwing money away (that could be used on a later upgrade)

Just put those 6 by 9s on the 4 channel amp, they will epic suck on a HU.

[z71kris]

the big 3 is simple, there is nothing to really screw up, all you do is add wire, you are not removing or changing anything, so it really cant mess anything up, just find good grounds... I would not waste the money on the cap, and I would try to get a 4 channel amp for the front and rear speakers....thats what I would do...

[BCarter]

the big three sounds worse than it is. once you pop your hood and trace your wires and get a good look at everything; you will relize its not any harder than installing an amp kit. a 4ch amp/ good wiring/ a proper box will take you a long way and should make you happy til you decide you need more. but a full alpine system is good nothing to be ashamed of and will surprise people when done right.

Edited May 16, 2010 by BCarter

[Ricky A.]

the big three sounds worse than it is. once you pop your hood and trace your wires and get a good look at everything; you will relize its not any harder than installing an amp kit. a 4ch amp/ good wiring/ a proper box will take you a long way and should make you happy til you decide you need more. but a full alpine system is good nothing to be ashamed of and will surprise people when done right.

very well put. x2 to it all.

[DJ_BigC]

Sounds good, that's what ill be doing then. If I run this amp the Alpine MRP-F300, Amp How do I wire this whole thing up.

From my understanding, this amp is going to wire up the same way as my single channel matching one, power wire, ground to chassis, remote wire and plug in all the speakers. That I know how to do, but i want to stay away from running to many wires, can I buy a distribution block, plug in my two 4 gauge power wires in one end, and make one 2 gauge or 0 gauge go out to my battery from the other end. As for my remote wire, do I have to run two separate wires or can I just branch off the other one to turn my amp on.

What is the difference between wiring my speakers at 2ohm and 4 ohm, apart from the output power, which way do you connect your wires to make it different. my front are 45 RMS, and my rear will be 85 RMS that's a significant difference, if it puts out 75W in 2ohm and 50W in 4 ohm, that's higher then my 45 RMS in the fronts and lower then 85 RMS for my rears. I think im really missing the boat here can someone explain to me in depth how this works.

[Ricky A.]

Sounds good, that's what ill be doing then. If I run this amp the Alpine MRP-F300, Amp How do I wire this whole thing up.

From my understanding, this amp is going to wire up the same way as my single channel matching one, power wire, ground to chassis, remote wire and plug in all the speakers. That I know how to do, but i want to stay away from running to many wires, can I buy a distribution block, plug in my two 4 gauge power wires in one end, and make one 2 gauge or 0 gauge go out to my battery from the other end. As for my remote wire, do I have to run two separate wires or can I just branch off the other one to turn my amp on.

What is the difference between wiring my speakers at 2ohm and 4 ohm, apart from the output power, which way do you connect your wires to make it different. my front are 45 RMS, and my rear will be 85 RMS that's a significant difference, if it puts out 75W in 2ohm and 50W in 4 ohm, that's higher then my 45 RMS in the fronts and lower then 85 RMS for my rears. I think im really missing the boat here can someone explain to me in depth how this works.

yeah u got the amp wireing right but dont forget rca's and u can run a distrubutoion block if u want.. haha ide think itde be bulkier than just running the wires.. and s for the remote turn on u can just branch it off the pther one. thats what i did and it works fine. and as far as impedence. basically if u take the positives from both and negatives from both and twist them together as they were 1 speaker that will "ohm them down" to 2 ohms instead of 4 or from 2 to 1 dependiong on the application. and if the amps 2 ohm stable ide wire everything 2 ohm..

[DJ_BigC]

Ya for the wiring ill be running Stinger 4 gauge and I'll make up my mind on the distribution block then day of the installation lol. I'll branch off my existing remote wire and most likely run the same 400 series Monster Cable 4 channel amp RCA interconnects.

As for the impedance, the amp has 4 slots up top for the rear decks, and 4 slots for the front. If I wire them at 2ohms I would one be using 4 slots instead of 8, two at the top and two at the bottom right? If so I completely understand now.

By slots I mean, My link

[+][-] [+][-] (Rear Deck, 4 slots or tabs)

[+][-] [+][-] (Front Stage, 4 slots or tabs)

I would only be using the first 4 if i were to wire at 2 ohms and all of them at 4 ohms.

Would my speakers be able to handle 2 ohms, or am i better off doing them at 4 ohms to be safe???

And my deck has a max output of 45Wx4 will the amp be able to run off my deck? The amp puts out a minimum of 50W at 4 ohms? or am I right out of the ball park right now with this thought.

Edited May 16, 2010 by DJ_BigC