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Posted

So, I am so tired of not knowing what to do about this alt. Ive made a post before and nothing came back..

if some of you auto mechanics could lend me a hand for a sec Id appreciate it.

So in words:

The alt is secured to the block w/ 3 black mounting bars

The charging post is behind the black shroud on the back of the alt

I cant remove the shroud because of the rear mounting bar

I dont want to remove the rear bar while the belt is under tension, it might bend, break something

So in short, I have to release tension on the belt

and basically remove the alt.

I can change my oil and stuff but, im no ace and kinda intimidated by this process. I know what needs to be done but would like a helping hand.

If any of you know how to remove this shroud, to access the posts on the back of the alt Id appreciate some help.

please help I wanna get this done :P

Pics:

23479_405459452795_527012795_5244885_7199084_n.jpg

23479_405459477795_527012795_5244886_6983792_n.jpg

There is a brief map of how the belt runs on the left strut mount, and have access to Chitlons manual so I could figure out what drive socket etc is needed to release the tensioner.

Im just afraid of messing up and having to figure out how to re-run the entire belt please help :P

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

Posted

91061g08.gif

there is the schematic for the tensioner, but it only says

1.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2.

Using a drive belt tension wrench, rotate the tensioner.

any idea, on what or where to find such items

i thought it was just a 1/2 or 3/4 socket wrench?

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

Posted

You dont need a quote special wrench for it, just something like a breaker bar, with the correct size socket on it.

¿ǝɯɐƃ ǝɥʇ

Trolls never learn............

All BS aside, If I see one more comment in here that is NOT about the pre-sale, I will start the vacations. And that includes the trolls feeding the trolls.

YOU THE ONE THAT SOUND LIKE A OGER AND HUMPBACK/TROLLS?

Add "SMDLIFER" on Xbox LIVE to play with other SMD members.

Posted

thats what i thought

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

Posted (edited)

Also It wouldnt be easy to "Break" the tensioner they are made pretty sturdy, So you dont have to worry about damaging it. Also somewhere under your hood there should be a lil picture illustrating how the belt is supposed to go on.

Edited by CaptainzPlanetz

¿ǝɯɐƃ ǝɥʇ

Trolls never learn............

All BS aside, If I see one more comment in here that is NOT about the pre-sale, I will start the vacations. And that includes the trolls feeding the trolls.

YOU THE ONE THAT SOUND LIKE A OGER AND HUMPBACK/TROLLS?

Add "SMDLIFER" on Xbox LIVE to play with other SMD members.

Posted

My radiator fan was in the way of my tensioner so I could not get my hand or a socket to the area. I went to AutoZone and rented the kit they had for 26$. As long as you take it back they give you your money back.

SMD Super Seller/Buyer

Audison----Hertz----Rainbow

Posted

Also It wouldnt be easy to "Break" the tensioner they are made pretty sturdy, So you dont have to worry about damaging it. Also somewhere under your hood there should be a lil picture illustrating how the belt is supposed to go on.

"There is a brief map of how the belt runs on the left strut mount, and have access to Chitlons manual so I could figure out what drive socket etc is needed to release the tensioner."

and by breaking something, i meant that i dont think removing ine if the mounting bars while the belt is under tension is a good idea. it could bend the pulley or something if the alt moved.. so in other words i cant unmount the back of the alt without first releaving tension on the belt...

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

Posted

I posted on 2carpros.com its an ASE certified forum, and you can donate money to them and your question will be answered quickly by an ASE certified person, and you'll get the correct answer, as opposed to just posting free on their open forum, which might not be right / take longer.

you can donate w/e u want, i just put $3 which would be very much worth it to get this job done! :P

we'll see what that turns up.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

Posted

what help do you need exactly to release the tensioner? if so on the face of the tensioner there should be a square lookin hole your breaker bar should fit in there either the 3/8 drive or 1/4 will fit if you turn that nut if will take off the tensioner get back to me if your confused or need further assistance

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06 chrysler 300C Hemi

one mmatts dreadnaut 15 powered by a planet audio vx 2200d

fosgate p200 running planet audio 8" midbass drivers and super compression tweeters

stock battery and a stinger spv44

Irragi 300 amp alternator

big 3 1/0

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/55075-system-in-my-300c/page__view__findpost__p__763656__fromsearch__1

Posted

hey bro gm motor is that? i haven't seen the black shroud thing before but the top casing looks like what my 3.1 v6 looked like

Johns.jpgSuburban Coming Soon

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