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Posted

Hey guys! This is my first time posting in SMD Forums though I will be more active once I can get the knowledge behind me.

I have a 1997 Holden Commodore VS (Aussie) with a Rockford Fosgate P3D415 sub running off a Alpine MRP-M1000 amp @ 2ohm. I have an upgraded alternator (130amp Bosch), an Optima Yellow Top and a 1 Farad Capacitor. Even after all this stuffing around and money, every now and then the sub will cut out, which was initially thought to be a power problem, but nothing has fixed it.

Running 0 Gauge from battery to mid mounted T-piece (got another amp to install for next sub) and 4 Gauge to the amps. Using 0 gauge ground all round and from battery to chassis.

Now for the life of me I can't figure out why it will cut out, and the amp seems to be getting unusually hot, which I wasn't expecting off a 'digital' amplifier.

Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks!

Posted

check your grounds, and all the connections first

99 suburban

20" boss motorsport wheels

big 3 installed (thanks Iraggi)

alpine 9886 deck

kenwood 11 band eq

fosgate t5002 amp running sub

kenwood ps200 amp running components

jl xr components in front doors

jl xr 6.5 in rear doors

jl in rear roof

1 FI Q 18" with bp

enclosure 8 cubes 138 sq" port 34hz

Iraggi 220 ho alt

(RF 1500bd coming soon)

Posted

take out the cap and run 0 gauge to everything you can if possible the more current the better ive heard that the alpines get hot but ive never heard about them shutting off my guess is the cap is drawing too much current when its not fully charged and it is putting strain on the rest of the system

Btw that was the first person. Ever banned by me while dropping a deuce. Feel privileged

Posted

Welcome to the site.

Nice car

You mean its a class D amp. And any amp will produce heat. It could be going into thermal shut down.

Is the amp properly mounted and vented. Got any pics?

Ed Lester

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Posted

I haven't got any pics, its a mates car.

It's 4 gauge to the cap installed at JB HiFi, all connections have been checked and double checked by myself, owner and a professional installer.

The amp should be able to run the sub fine, the amp is rated at 1000wrms @ 2ohm at 14.4v. Sub only takes 500wrms, hence why we bought it.

Theoretically they're should be plenty of current in the system.

Though I've been told to go to an MB Quart 1000rms @ 1ohm class a/b. And that should be able to run both P3's.

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