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The (-) means you present it with a ground. If your alarm came with a hood pin you just need to mount it under the hood so that when the hood is open the spring pin is completely extended which allows the base of the pin touch the mounting ring. When you attach it, put it in a place that when the hood is closed the pin is pushed down and the connection is broken. Make sure when you mount it it's to metal and the metal is clean so that it makes a good connection to the vehicle ground.

This connects to the hood pin zone on the alarm and will trigger that zone, as well as should be a remote start prevention when the hood is open.

Hooking your trunk up would work on the light signal. You just need to meter if the light has 12v to it when the trunk is closed. If light is getting 12v while it's closed then the trigger will be a (-) input the same as your hood pin. If the trunk light doesn't get 12v until the trunk is open then the trigger will be a (+) input.

The horn wire will be a (-) output from the alarm. Same scenario as the trunk, you need to find out if your horn has 12v at it already and upon pressing the horn you present a ground which completes the circuit. (this is pretty typical of most vehicles) if upon pressing the horn you you send 12v to the already grounded horn, then you will need a relay to convert the signal from a (-) output, to a (+) output.

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp#n2p

From the looks of it, it seems like you haven't had much experience with alarms before. If your electrical theory isn't up to par, then you might want to consider learning a few more basics before diving into this project.

Also curious, have you looked up your vehicle's wiring diagram? That site I linked to has a good database of wiring code sheets for many vehicles you might want to check out. They usually tell you what your trunk, and horn trigger wire color is, location, as well as what polarity it is.

Thanks, man. I definitely appreciate the advice. I thought they might've used some type of springed switch for the hood. I kinda did that with the trunk but it's really ghetto fab and about to fall off. I already installed the alarm on my own and it works. I can handle hooking up wires and reading the installation manual and measuring currents with my multimeter, I'm just not familiar with some of the technology that goes into how it's done when hooking up the alarm like that spring switch you were just talking about. Anyway thanks man I appreciate the input.

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What kind of vehicle is it? You can silent arm and disarm but tapping aux once before you lock or unlock command btw, I have a Viper 5901 which is pretty much the same thing as you have with 1 mile range and a starter, installed myself, and a python 991 in my jimmy put in by me, and my boy installs them all day everyday if you need a question answered, I wish I wouldve seen this a couple days ago and we probably couldve helped you a ton.

2001 Bravada (2wd) Pewter on 24's

JVC KW-AV60BT

10 Alpine Type-S 6.5s

2 PSI/BTL 18's @ 32Hz

2 Rockford Fosgate T25001-bd's @ 1-ohm each

Rockford Fosgate T1000-4

Rockford Fosgate T400-4

Rockford 3Sixty.2

Yellow top up front, 2 9a31s in the back

LOTS of AT 1/0

Python 991

350 Amp Singer Alt

"Build Log"

My Facebook

My YouTube

i didnt see the video or read anything but...cool story

and the reason your being a cock tonight is?

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I took my alarm out of my truck (relays, actuators, fuses and all), asked an installer for which wire goes where, and installed it into my car with little to no problems, so I got lucky.

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What kind of vehicle is it? You can silent arm and disarm but tapping aux once before you lock or unlock command btw, I have a Viper 5901 which is pretty much the same thing as you have with 1 mile range and a starter, installed myself, and a python 991 in my jimmy put in by me, and my boy installs them all day everyday if you need a question answered, I wish I wouldve seen this a couple days ago and we probably couldve helped you a ton.

Nothing special, its a newer mits galant. I know about the silent arming/disarming but I was hoping to make the siren silent when it goes off. Oh well not a big deal. I'm still not 100% complete with the install so if I have any more questions I'm going to post them here so check back every now and then. Thanks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Alright maybe someone here can help me out with a simple question. I'm looking for an ultra bright LED for my alarm. I got the highest rated 5mm LED from radio shack which was rated at 3000mA if I remember right. The viewing angle really sucks and its not all that bright no matter how far in or out I have it mounted. I did a google shopping search for car alarm LED's but none of them really give me any specs as far as brightness and viewing angle. I want something bright as hell. Anyone use any of these "scanner" LED set ups? http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=5977

When I measure the voltage coming out of the LED leads it jumps all over the place from 0.03v to 23v to 12v to 5v etc... Those "scanners" are expensive and look ugly like some kind of batman logo or something. I wonder if I can make one myself... I didn't think shopping for an LED would be difficult all I want is the brightest and best viewing angle you know, something that will get someone's attention to let them know I'm armed (car alarm armed that is ;) )

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just hit up your local shops. most techs will have extra parts laying around in their tool boxes. most aftermarket leds are not wide angle...especially ultra bright....they are bright because of the focused lense, which is why alarm leds have a shell over them to widen the light angle. hint if you have white gauges take apart the cluster and mount led in there (between the plastic clear lense and the gauge faces). when it blinks it will reflect and look hot

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=29213 "sleeper build"

(1) DC AUDIO Level4XL 10

(2) PowermasterD2700 batteries

ALL FOR SALE

TEAM DC AUDIO

TEAM DIRTFLOORPOOR

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just hit up your local shops. most techs will have extra parts laying around in their tool boxes. most aftermarket leds are not wide angle...especially ultra bright....they are bright because of the focused lense, which is why alarm leds have a shell over them to widen the light angle. hint if you have white gauges take apart the cluster and mount led in there (between the plastic clear lense and the gauge faces). when it blinks it will reflect and look hot

Yeah makes sense about the focused lens, didn't think of that. I'll check out autozone for those bolt mount led's like rob said. The numbers on my gauge cluster are white. I think I get what your saying but at the same time crackheads looking into my car to find something to steal are just going to wonder why my cluster is blinking lol.

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Just one more question. I'm pretty familiar with programming the unit. The only problem I'm having is that I want to program the valet button to be able to turn off the car alarm if it's going off and my remote isn't working for whatever reason. I found the option which says program one chirp for 1 press and 2 chirps for 2-5 presses. I don't know how to specify how many presses I want to disable the alarm. I tried calling tech support but they said I had to be an authorized dealer to answer that question. Anyone have experience with this? Do I need a bit writer to program 2-5 presses?

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Just one more question. I'm pretty familiar with programming the unit. The only problem I'm having is that I want to program the valet button to be able to turn off the car alarm if it's going off and my remote isn't working for whatever reason. I found the option which says program one chirp for 1 press and 2 chirps for 2-5 presses. I don't know how to specify how many presses I want to disable the alarm. I tried calling tech support but they said I had to be an authorized dealer to answer that question. Anyone have experience with this? Do I need a bit writer to program 2-5 presses?

If I remember correctly, it's been a while since I have programmed without a bit, you press it the number of times you want it, and then it will chirp that many time to confirm, so if you want 3 then press press press hold, chirp chirp chirp, 3 times, done. Double check by setting the alarm off and trying it.

As far a a super bright LED, I have 3 standard blue viper LEDs in my Tahoe, one where the 4WD switch would be and one in each A pillar down low by the dash, its super bright. You can find just flashing LEDs on eBay to simulate an alarm, just get a couple of those and wire them up relayed to ground when armed.

Keep the standard LED hooked up either way for your error reports because extra LEDs hooked up through ground when armed with not give them.

2001 Bravada (2wd) Pewter on 24's

JVC KW-AV60BT

10 Alpine Type-S 6.5s

2 PSI/BTL 18's @ 32Hz

2 Rockford Fosgate T25001-bd's @ 1-ohm each

Rockford Fosgate T1000-4

Rockford Fosgate T400-4

Rockford 3Sixty.2

Yellow top up front, 2 9a31s in the back

LOTS of AT 1/0

Python 991

350 Amp Singer Alt

"Build Log"

My Facebook

My YouTube

i didnt see the video or read anything but...cool story

and the reason your being a cock tonight is?

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