Neo_frog Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 So you all know my design I've been using. The subs are in and the system is operational. It is by far the loudest I've had, and the last one was hitting a 154 on a burp. I haven't metered it or anything so don't ask about it just yet. I built it to have 1 ft³ per sub, and 5.9 in² of port per cube for control. The baffles are at 14° with a 7" separation in the back. Port is tuned to 34.7hZ. This gives me close to 12 ft³ inside the clam as well for a reference. I figured matching the air space would play a role in the response of the horn. Now here's what I don't understand. Since the port would technically cancel the subs movement with inverse compression, why is it MUCH louder? Or is it that the port creates a compliance effect? I even play flat from 25-40hZ before it drops off. And my subs don't get hot, and won't bottom out. I've tried. Even with the doors open, the subs continue to act like they are in their own environment independent of the car. (Thanks to Boon for that recommendation) This probably means I have a lot of scalability for power... Quote Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forevrbumpn Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 My boss was always about the horn effect, as I posted in the Quarterwave thread ( I think) get your hands, and cup over your mouth, make a sound, like a ahhhh or something- make sure no one is looking.. lol start your hands off in a cylinder/tube shape, and slowly open them to a bull horn shape, the wider you go the louder your voice gets, until your hands are open to wide, and there is no more compression built up in your hands I always wanted to do a clam shell, my way, where maybe there is 24- 10" speakers, the beginning of the horn throat equals the cone area of just the 4 or 8 subs it would end with the area of all 24- 10" subs So basically the horn throat at the back wall, or port would be about 220 - 440sq inch assuming the 10" subs have a cone area of 55sq inches ( the area would be a test and re test method, first try with the area of half the speakers, then try with the full area of the subs) The ending result would be 660 - 1320sq inches if the opening goes to wide, say 1500 - 2000sq inches, there would be loss of compression at the horn/clamshell exit I cant say this is why your clam shell is louder now, than before, but I'am willing to bet compression built up in the horn of the clamshell is key Quote I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 air movement has latency to the movement of the driver diaphram, thats why the cancellation doesnt "seem" to be there. It is there, just not perceptible. Quote MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 My boss was always about the horn effect, as I posted in the Quarterwave thread ( I think) get your hands, and cup over your mouth, make a sound, like a ahhhh or something- make sure no one is looking.. lol start your hands off in a cylinder/tube shape, and slowly open them to a bull horn shape, the wider you go the louder your voice gets, until your hands are open to wide, and there is no more compression built up in your hands I always wanted to do a clam shell, my way, where maybe there is 24- 10" speakers, the beginning of the horn throat equals the cone area of just the 4 or 8 subs it would end with the area of all 24- 10" subs So basically the horn throat at the back wall, or port would be about 220 - 440sq inch assuming the 10" subs have a cone area of 55sq inches ( the area would be a test and re test method, first try with the area of half the speakers, then try with the full area of the subs) The ending result would be 660 - 1320sq inches if the opening goes to wide, say 1500 - 2000sq inches, there would be loss of compression at the horn/clamshell exit I cant say this is why your clam shell is louder now, than before, but I'am willing to bet compression built up in the horn of the clamshell is key See, I was going to attempt a cross-sectional area ratio like that, but the port threw that off. That's why my taper is a little looser. I have the port area close to one sub Sd while the whole back face is about 5 subs total. The opening was adjusted to drop my internal airspace and meet my tuning/handling goals. I didn't even think about the area of the opening. I was going for volume matching to attempt a resonating effect. air movement has latency to the movement of the driver diaphram, thats why the cancellation doesnt "seem" to be there. It is there, just not perceptible. At this point, sealing it off or attempting a port adjustment would be difficult. I know there is some minimal cancellation, but I don't understand how the incredible amount of cabin compression happens. The behavior of air is way different than I've felt in the past. I can't do a can trick like my last wall, but it gags me and destroys my door guts. And it's the first system that is bowing my windshield so bad that I've considered reinforcement. Quote Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted June 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 Bump for more info Quote Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 ill admit rite now that you seem to have a better grasp at all this than i do but ill give it a shot. there is a delay from the back wave coming out of the port. if the back wave come out at the same time the subs push then everything is working together. since the horn is so big, you dont have a lot of pressure built up on the face of the subs so cancellation would be minimal. but the small box, port and a little pressure on the face of the cone will all help you not bottom out. just sounds like everything is working together. i dont like the port being so small but i think you built a great box. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted June 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 ill admit rite now that you seem to have a better grasp at all this than i do but ill give it a shot. there is a delay from the back wave coming out of the port. if the back wave come out at the same time the subs push then everything is working together. since the horn is so big, you dont have a lot of pressure built up on the face of the subs so cancellation would be minimal. but the small box, port and a little pressure on the face of the cone will all help you not bottom out. just sounds like everything is working together. i dont like the port being so small but i think you built a great box. I made the port smaller to achieve Helmholtz resonance (once again, experimental). The volume of air inside the port against the internal airspace would theoretically achieve this in a practical application. This is another reason I adjusted the baffles in the design to match everything up with my projected scenario, but I wasn't going to mention anything about it in case I screwed it up lol. Maybe it is the delay that's creating compliance.. I was really hesitant to try this because an oscillator would have an outside force acting on a set volume both inside the system AND the opening. Every time the subs move, this changes the internal volume and would affect the pressures inversely since the port is inside the horn. But maybe since the angles are loose, it's not actually resonating like I am thinking... I think I'm a bit over my head on this one lol. Hopefully this discussion continues though. Quote Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 I made the port smaller to achieve Helmholtz resonance (once again, experimental). The volume of air inside the port against the internal airspace would theoretically achieve this in a practical application. This is another reason I adjusted the baffles in the design to match everything up with my projected scenario, but I wasn't going to mention anything about it in case I screwed it up lol. Maybe it is the delay that's creating compliance.. I was really hesitant to try this because an oscillator would have an outside force acting on a set volume both inside the system AND the opening. Every time the subs move, this changes the internal volume and would affect the pressures inversely since the port is inside the horn. But maybe since the angles are loose, it's not actually resonating like I am thinking... I think I'm a bit over my head on this one lol. Hopefully this discussion continues though. just when i think im getting a solid grasp on car audio i run into this. i have no idea what helmholtz resonance is lol. at least not by name. looks like ill be doing some google searches tonight. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 (edited) helmholtz resonance is vibration of air. A port is a helmholtz resonator Blow across the top of a wine glass.. helmholtz resonator! edit - I dont like how "; )" gives Edited June 21, 2010 by STEvil Quote MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 (edited) i dont like how "eighty" give you 80 Edited June 21, 2010 by skittlesRgood Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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