BJD3 Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 EDIT: This was a sub question but I found my answer. I'd still like the answer to the second part. Mods please move. Also, I know this is more an amplifier question and not a subwoofer/enclosure question, but would I see any difference between running the AP15001d at 750 watts and getting an amplifier that does closer to the RMS rating I'll actually be using? Like instead of getting the AP if I got like the Kicker ZX750, would there be any difference or is 750 watts 750 watts? Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregggg Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 It depends on the name brand because some brands are underrated and don't do rated power and some do but what makes an amp cheaper are the parts they use. Some brands rate their amps at peak power and some rate them at RMS but don't really do RMS but Kicker is an underrated amp if you run a 14.4v system. Hope this helps cause didn't fully understand the question lol sorry 2002 Toyota Solara SLE V6 Headunit - Pioneer DEH P3900MP Door Speakers - Polk Audio db6501 6-1/2" 2-way Component System Rear Speakers - Polk Audio db691 Speaker Amp - DD C4b Sub - 2 12" Alpine Type R's in a 2 @ 33hz Sub Amp - DD M2A Electrical - Big 3 - Stinger HPM 1/0 guage Wires, Optima Yellow Top Battery, 180/120 DC HO Alternator w/ MLA Confuscious say "he who say it can't be done shouldn't be bothering man busy doing it" Now feel free to go crawl back under that rock and leave this to the professionals.... refs: DC_Power_Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 EDIT: This was a sub question but I found my answer. I'd still like the answer to the second part. Mods please move. Also, I know this is more an amplifier question and not a subwoofer/enclosure question, but would I see any difference between running the AP15001d at 750 watts and getting an amplifier that does closer to the RMS rating I'll actually be using? Like instead of getting the AP if I got like the Kicker ZX750, would there be any difference or is 750 watts 750 watts? Putting nominal ratings and efficiency aside, both of them will do 750 @ 2-ohms. My choice would be the AP since you would have overhead and more scalability to upgrade. Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CheezyMane13 Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 If both amps are doing 750rms on the birth sheets then the only factor I'd say you have left is price and name. Which usually means clarity of signal. take baby steps, u cant do it all at once unless u have a roll of 100's big enough to choke a donkey 1998 Chevy Venture "Swagger Wagon" Kenwood Excelon KDC-X994 Headunit 3 15" Alpine Type R's in seperate T-Lines 1 RF T1500-1bd for 2 of the 15s 1 RF P1000-1bd for the single 15 3 sets of Hifonics Zeus ZXi6.5C Components( 1 more set to come for Front stage) 1 Hifonics HFi100.4 4-channel amp Stock alt for now (DC HO SPL 400A when funds come in,currently working on buying this) Stock battery and one Optima Redtop for now (looking at XS batteries) 3 15" Alpine Type R's (aka Swagger Wagon Build 1.0) Swagger Wagon Build 2.0 Youtube Videos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chapo123 Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 i heard that if you use a bigger amp then what you need and keep the gain lower then having it more up (on the smaller amp) the signal sounds more clean? sorry if thats wrong info lol plus itd be easier to upgrade if you wanted too Steve I don't know why but everytime I see your new paint I want a Dr. Pepper...... is this normal? heres an analogy for you. running a high power stereo without a fuse is like having unprotected sex with that hot chick at the bar with the sketchy sexual history. Sure you may be fine and nothing happens but that one time something does happen you're fucked. i dont want woofer broke like bass sound clip clip and voice coil overheat 2 sa12s, saz1500 build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/91183-chapo123s-sundown-build-log/page__gopid__1250604entry1250604 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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