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double or even triple baffle if your worried about it. but your subs are not heavy ones and dont take a lot of power so i really wouldnt worry about it.

how big is your port? width and height?

if the port is too close to the hatch it will choke the port and it will actually act like a longer port.

i just designed a new box its:

42"W x 16"H x 24"D

and i got 30 inches from the back of the seat.

so i got 6 inches from the port to hatch

also my port is gonna be 6"W x 6"H x 5"L

after sub, port, and bracing displacement i think the box should be tuned to about 39-40hz

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oohh, no buddy that port is way too small. for an 8 cube box you would need a port closer to 10x10. you want at least 11 square inches of port area per cubic foot of airspace in the box. gimme a min and ill see if i can come up with something for you.

zick - why dont you put up what you have in your sig? post a build log.

this guy is aking for help and not acting like he knows more than anyone. he just wants help. everyone started at a low level and he will learn all this shit in time. just like everyone else.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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oohh, no buddy that port is way too small. for an 8 cube box you would need a port closer to 10x10. you want at least 11 square inches of port area per cubic foot of airspace in the box. gimme a min and ill see if i can come up with something for you.

zick - why dont you put up what you have in your sig? post a build log.

I can do that. I have a pretty nice system.

Regards,

Zick.

The King.

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oohh, no buddy that port is way too small. for an 8 cube box you would need a port closer to 10x10. you want at least 11 square inches of port area per cubic foot of airspace in the box. gimme a min and ill see if i can come up with something for you.

zick - why dont you put up what you have in your sig? post a build log.

this guy is aking for help and not acting like he knows more than anyone. he just wants help. everyone started at a low level and he will learn all this shit in time. just like everyone else.

this is my first ever system/box that i made.

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ok box is 16h x42w x24d.

port - 6"h x15"w x 16"l

gives you 6cubes after displacement. 41hz

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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Okay in all seriousness. I will tell you exactly what you need to do to get loud tigolbity.

1. Tell us what subs and amp you are running. None of that 1200 watt max shit. That tells us nothing. We need RMS ratings and model numbers.

2. Upgrade the Big 3 to true 1/0 gauge wire. This will help maintain your voltage better.

3. Sound deaden your car. Peal and Seel works great.

Regards,

Zick

The King.

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Okay in all seriousness. I will tell you exactly what you need to do to get loud tigolbity.

1. Tell us what subs and amp you are running. None of that 1200 watt max shit. That tells us nothing. We need RMS ratings and model numbers.

2. Upgrade the Big 3 to true 1/0 gauge wire. This will help maintain your voltage better.

3. Sound deaden your car. Peal and Seel works great.

Regards,

Zick

1. i'm pretty sure he posted his RMS rating in his first post.

2. he has 4 guage for now. thats fine until he upgrades.

3. peal and seel?! you wanna nag at him about the big 3 in 1/0 instead of 4 guage, and you recommend him peal and seel?

wow.

under construction

I hate People with crappy primered cars rolling on hubcaps that are louder then me.

u hate c-fizzy?

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Okay in all seriousness. I will tell you exactly what you need to do to get loud tigolbity.

1. Tell us what subs and amp you are running. None of that 1200 watt max shit. That tells us nothing. We need RMS ratings and model numbers.

2. Upgrade the Big 3 to true 1/0 gauge wire. This will help maintain your voltage better.

3. Sound deaden your car. Peal and Seel works great.

Regards,

Zick

shut the hell up "zick". you have no idea what the hell is going on anyways with your misinformation and other members real information.

edit: why should he go for 1/0 gauge? 4 gauge will hold up perfectly on an alternator up to about 150 amps. and peel and seal sucks if you put more than 1 layer on w/o prepping the fuck out of everything (from experience)

edit 2:

Regards,

Kranny

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