Dub7Banger Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 Alright I just got my first car, a 1990 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight, not that great looking of a car, a few of my friends have called it an old persons car etc,etc,etc. Well i'm looking to surprise them with a monster in the trunk. I've got a budget of 2 grand, and since I heard my first set at the world of wheels i've had my eye on a JL Audio W7. Well on this budget i'm looking to get 1x 13W7, 1x JL Audio 1000/1v2 amp, a pair of 3.5 JL audio TR350CXI speakers for the front, a pair of C2-690TX 6x9 for the back, and a Stinger 1 farad capacitor. I've located most of this through one reliable seller on ebay, and the few other pieces from another reliable seller on ebay. This is where my questions begin. With the 13W7 and the 1000/1 amp, if I wire the W7, which is normally 1.5 ohms, in parallel, which makes it .75 ohms, work well with the amp? From what i've read the amp has a impendence range of 1.5 to 4 ohms. Also, i'm aware I need a crossover, but I have no clue what i'm looking for in a cross over. I just know it separates the highs, mids, and lows, and sends the lows to the woofer, mids to the 6x9's, and highs to the 3 1/2's. I just don't know what to look for when i'm buying one, and what paying too much would be. Also, from what i've read you guys don't like woofers etc, but that's actually the dealer I found for most of this. Any reason why you wouldn't buy from them? And one final thing, from all of the manuals i've read from the 1000/1 and the W7 I don't really need an EQ, but my HU (Which i'm not too sure about, it's a Cyclone CCD20, no clue on the manufacturer other than that)doesn't have much if any kind of equalization. Would you recomend I get an EQ or just leave it as is? Thanks for any help you guys can give me. Warning, you are taking advice from a noob with 0 install experience at this point, any advice I give is strictly based on information gathered via the intrawebz and lots of forum surfing over a period of 2 months If you are considering buying a DC Level 5, do it. Don't think about it, just do it. It'll work. go to lowes get bricks wait in yard. throw said brick at vehicle. If thats me and that just happened to me Im going looking for him after that. 1. Goto lowes 2. Get some bricks 3. ??? 4. PROFIT!! Profit from everything. LOVE ideas like this. xD
bassl0va Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 Alright I just got my first car, a 1990 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight, not that great looking of a car, a few of my friends have called it an old persons car etc,etc,etc. Well i'm looking to surprise them with a monster in the trunk. I've got a budget of 2 grand, and since I heard my first set at the world of wheels i've had my eye on a JL Audio W7. Well on this budget i'm looking to get 1x 13W7, 1x JL Audio 1000/1v2 amp, a pair of 3.5 JL audio TR350CXI speakers for the front, a pair of C2-690TX 6x9 for the back, and a Stinger 1 farad capacitor. I've located most of this through one reliable seller on ebay, and the few other pieces from another reliable seller on ebay. This is where my questions begin. With the 13W7 and the 1000/1 amp, if I wire the W7, which is normally 1.5 ohms, in parallel, which makes it .75 ohms, work well with the amp? From what i've read the amp has a impendence range of 1.5 to 4 ohms. Also, i'm aware I need a crossover, but I have no clue what i'm looking for in a cross over. I just know it separates the highs, mids, and lows, and sends the lows to the woofer, mids to the 6x9's, and highs to the 3 1/2's. I just don't know what to look for when i'm buying one, and what paying too much would be. Also, from what i've read you guys don't like woofers etc, but that's actually the dealer I found for most of this. Any reason why you wouldn't buy from them? And one final thing, from all of the manuals i've read from the 1000/1 and the W7 I don't really need an EQ, but my HU (Which i'm not too sure about, it's a Cyclone CCD20, no clue on the manufacturer other than that)doesn't have much if any kind of equalization. Would you recomend I get an EQ or just leave it as is? Thanks for any help you guys can give me. I reckon if you would be better off going with DC or Fi or Sundown and so on. Far better value for money. And a nice amp that is rated for 1 ohm loads, such as sundown or crescendo or atomic, the list goes on and on for them too. I'd say the amp and the sub wouldn't like it, but you won't like it either cause it will probably void JLs bizarre warranty. For crossovers, all you have to do is use the crossover on the subs amp for the sub, set to about 80hz. And if you get a nice set of components you will get crossovers with them. I wouldn't use 6x9s for mids and 3 1/2s for the highs. Mainly because 6x9s aren't exactly the best speakers as with 3 1/2s. Also, you wouldn't find either of them without tweeters for reasonable prices, instead go for some nice 6.5" components. Depends what you want from your system really, but EQs are always a nice addition if used right. My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.
FreekDesignz Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 dont do a cap its a waist of money it does nothing for your amp ♠ FreekDesignz Demo Collection ♠ Everything You Need To Know About Car Audio Torres' Box Tuning Calculator
sqsux Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 For the type of money you're wanting to spend, there are far better choices than JL. Not saying they're garbage, but I would never pay 600 bucks for a 12(13 whatever). Component sets come with crossovers, and usually amps will take care of that as well. As for the capacitor, you'd be better off with a small battery. Start out boxy, shape as you move along. Dc Audio Team Fur
Watch the bass Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 If im on ur side, i would stay for another 2 weeks in the forum. Have a look what doin for a nice System like yours is urgent and lot of friendly SMD-members<br>can answer ur question´s. Like these capacitators = waisting money. In the moment i have something to work, if im back i will give a plan for a System <br>for 2 grand.<br><br>I promised a plan for bmf funsystem for 2 Grand and sorry for my english im from Germany and till all the GI´s out of<br>my nearer homearea till Kirgisistan, Iraq, Poland and so on, it get a little bit rusty.<br><br>First i want to say something and giving some basic principles.<br><br>For Beginners "befrore you ask the forum, SEARCH THE FORUM and than ask urself, who did i ask first,<br>Google is still a good adress, E-Bay, other forums, sites from buissnessupporters from SMD, <br>or realy the forum including the forumrules. The absolute most on SMD coast nothing more than<br>attention, a little time, maby a buildlog or vid.<br><br><br><br><br>Work safetey, together, if it possible or needed on safety Systems.<br>A poor instaled sub-box, can hurt till kill.<br><br>Be thankful that you find something, where you can school and train your technical and handcrafting skillz, <br>use and take the time, it will go faster, you would get better, you can get fund andbest bang for the buck.<br><br><br><br>Now, System for 2 Grand.<br><br>Amp <br><a href="http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/8121.html">My link</a>, 1.5 Audison KW on 3 channels, Audison is car-audio brand with best and finest qualitys.<br>Get the amp used for not more than 800 $ maby + shipping. Dont be shy and use E-bay worldwide, and check<br>the shippingconditions of the national postservices, for example, i pay 85 $ for a package till 10 Kg, in the U.S.<br>including Alsaka and Hawai, and for 20 $ more i can ship 20 Kg packages.<br><br>Sub 1000 W RMS<br>A FI BL 12, a DC lvl 4, or something like this, for my own i would go with the FI.<br><br>Components for doors and rear<br>2 times 6.5 comps 4 Ohm 100-150 W RMS, or 4 times 6.5 comps 8 Ohm 60-80 Watts, for the doors<br>6 x 9 high efficiencyfactor Components with a low RMS range for the rear.<br><br>Headunit, with high voltage out(arround 5 volts) on the RCA´s, and 4 x 50 times in the headunit.<br><br>Electricity, Sounddeadening and other,<br>Get Big 3 upgrade, biggest baddest batterie on the original place (or as upgrade, good strong electrical<br>system is a section in itself). And for the budget, i think u need 150 $ for wiering.<br><br>Sounddeadening.<br>for 150-200 $ you get a shoppackage of deadeningmaterial, enough to deadening all zones of<br>higher intrests, doors, rearsides and reardeck, roof, and isnt it enough for a layer on the floor,<br>you can step back the floor for later.<br>Its realy better than another rattlemobile on the street.<br><br><br>Connecting<br>the Amp gets connected to the doors and the Sub. The 6 x 9 on the reardeck you connect to the<br>2 of the 50 Wattchannels of the headunit. For the first time is this enough. The philosophy of <br>caraudio says "music comes from the front". There is realy no need to have strong power on <br>highendcomponents at the reardeck.<br><br>Buying and selling<br>Search the "want to sale section" of the Forum, E-bay and caraudiodiscounters, there are the <br>$ to save, to get this system together for 2 Grand. As beginner, dont buy used products in conditions<br>under 10/8 in function and cosmetic. And in this example the named brands Audison and FI hold<br>there price as used items<br><br>For door and reardeckspeaker, look for products who peaks there class, or get some used stuff for<br>the budget, used but better quality for the same money is the device.<br><br>Upgradings and saving in this System.<br>The big new battery u can do later as a upgrade, saves arround 250 $ up.<br><br>For upgrades, u can add another pair of 6 x 9 on the reardeck to the headunit.<br><br>Upgrading the doorspeakers, i mean higher quality components. This Amp and Sub with<br>2 6.5 500-600 $ components in the door, thats real good sound.<br><br>Upgrade of reardeckspeakers, with own amp up till 2 x 100 Watt RMS.<br><br>Electrical upgrade, 2. Battery in the trunk, H/O alternator.<br><br><br>One important reason is, if you set your value more on SQ (Soundquality), choose a FI 12 Q Sub or other <br>1000 W RMS SQ-Sub and if u have the chance to listen your choice of speakers, do it.<br><br>Advantages of these Style agains ur system,<br>only 1 amp, easyer to install and connect, and a absolut highclass amp and sub in your System,<br>that means absolute serious about a high and loud soundlevle with a high-good resellingprice.<br><br>Cleaned out Mistakes<br>Capacitator out, 3.5 speakers in the door are cruel nonsens for the ears. <br><br>Hope to give you an idea in opposite to your plan and maby the other plans who want to<br>come for a 2 Grand-system<br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br> "in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley
sqsux Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 If im on ur side, i would stay for another 2 weeks in the forum. Have a look what doin for a nice System like yours is urgent and lot of friendly SMD-members can answer ur question´s. Like these capacitators = waisting money. In the moment i have something to work, if im back i will give a plan for a System for 2 grand. I didn't understand this at all Start out boxy, shape as you move along. Dc Audio Team Fur
BJD3 Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 Are you looking for balls to the wall loud, or something that sounds good and just so happens to get loud? And this $2000 budget, is this just for subs, speakers, and an amp or does it include installation necessities as well? I'd also suggest amping your mids and highs. IDK if you already have a 2/4 channel amplifier. From what you're saying, I don't really think you'll need the 6x9s either. Is this a coupe or a sedan? Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert
Dub7Banger Posted July 29, 2010 Author Report Posted July 29, 2010 Are you looking for balls to the wall loud, or something that sounds good and just so happens to get loud? And this $2000 budget, is this just for subs, speakers, and an amp or does it include installation necessities as well? I'd also suggest amping your mids and highs. IDK if you already have a 2/4 channel amplifier. From what you're saying, I don't really think you'll need the 6x9s either. Is this a coupe or a sedan? It's a sedan and since i've made this post i've been talked down so much. Being told that 750 for a sub and 800 for the amp would be ridiculous. And i'm looking for a good mix of SQL and SPL. For a while I was gonna pick up two Kicker L7 Solo-Barics, but that would just be pure SPL. Now i'm looking at this RE Audio XXX18-D2, which as far as I see looks like a good deal, and i've read a few posts about it but nothing too into detail. It's gonna be 850, a whole hundred bucks more than the w7, but if I do that, I can grab the Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BD amp a,d give it close to or exactly 3k watts, seeing as it's a 2k RMS, i'd assume it's 4k peak? Also My car was originally equipped for 3.5's up front, and 6x9's in the back, I don't really wanna do alot of modification to the interior to make this all work out, so I was gonna keep it close to stock with atleast factory spec speakers so everything fits right in. But if there's any ideas as to what I could do other than 6x9's and 3 1/2's i'm up to ideas. And once I get my woofer and the big money items all wrapped up I was gonna see if I could get an amp that'll put 100w to four channels. And the 2 grand is for my entire audio system for my vehicle. I might be able to go a hundred or so over, depending upon how late in the game I find out I need it, but yeah. If anyone could tell me more about RE Audios products i'd be greatful. I've read their website and such but I prefer to stick to brand name electronics so I have a lesser likelyhood of getting a shitty product. So some actual satisfied reviews would be a plus. Warning, you are taking advice from a noob with 0 install experience at this point, any advice I give is strictly based on information gathered via the intrawebz and lots of forum surfing over a period of 2 months If you are considering buying a DC Level 5, do it. Don't think about it, just do it. It'll work. go to lowes get bricks wait in yard. throw said brick at vehicle. If thats me and that just happened to me Im going looking for him after that. 1. Goto lowes 2. Get some bricks 3. ??? 4. PROFIT!! Profit from everything. LOVE ideas like this. xD
c_stud Posted July 29, 2010 Report Posted July 29, 2010 do a wall with 4 or more hifonic 12's off a mono amp, a couple mb quart component sets from audiosavings, sundown 100.4 all that's left use it for electrical a great system is nothing without proper electrical 1998 Nissan 200sx NOW: Dex-p98r head Planet Audio 300.4 mids and highs Planet Audio/Pioneer tweeters/crossovers Skar SK1500.1 3 SKAR Vvx15 dual 4 wired at .63
Dub7Banger Posted July 29, 2010 Author Report Posted July 29, 2010 do a wall with 4 or more hifonic 12's off a mono amp, a couple mb quart component sets from audiosavings, sundown 100.4 all that's left use it for electrical a great system is nothing without proper electrical Now as a noob to car audio I have to ask. Will this provide better SQ/SP than any of the aforementioned items? Warning, you are taking advice from a noob with 0 install experience at this point, any advice I give is strictly based on information gathered via the intrawebz and lots of forum surfing over a period of 2 months If you are considering buying a DC Level 5, do it. Don't think about it, just do it. It'll work. go to lowes get bricks wait in yard. throw said brick at vehicle. If thats me and that just happened to me Im going looking for him after that. 1. Goto lowes 2. Get some bricks 3. ??? 4. PROFIT!! Profit from everything. LOVE ideas like this. xD
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