Dub7Banger Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 (edited) As the title and topic explain, i'm trying to design a box using the Torres calc (ultra helpful) and there's some things I need to figure out. I'd like the box to sound good, doesn't have to get loud, just sound good. The woofer i'm designin the box for is a Level 5 18. I'm shooting for 5.5 cubes after displacement as recommended by rob. I'm gonna use 3/4 all around, and double up for the baffle. I have to work with a little over 12 inches, gonna have to notch some plastic to get the baffle on, and use a 12' 2x3 for bracing, which comes out to about .5cubes for bracing displacement, but anyways, I have no clue what to do for the port. I wanna shoot somewhere in the low 30's to really hit the lows, but not too low so it can still hit some of the higher notes. And I just don't know much as far as tuning. I THINK i'm shooting for somewhere around 60 square inches of port area, but what about port per foot? I've read between 12-16 is the magic number for quite a few subs but haven't read any specifics on the level 5. After all displacement EXCLUDING the port I have 5.78 cubes left, which isn't too much room to play with. If I do equate it out to roughly 12 inches per foot, then I don't have enough room to give the port enough length to drop the tuning down low. Would it still sound good if the port has less than 12^2 per foot? Most of the ones I work out to be around 32-35hz generally have port area somewhere around 40-60 and inches per foot around 8-10. btw, dimensions on the box are 11inX37inX38in. Sub will be up, and port will probably be facing the drivers side towards the back of the box, only place it won't choke up. EDIT: I won't get back to this till morning. Super fucking tired. Edited September 16, 2010 by Dub7Banger Quote Warning, you are taking advice from a noob with 0 install experience at this point, any advice I give is strictly based on information gathered via the intrawebz and lots of forum surfing over a period of 2 months If you are considering buying a DC Level 5, do it. Don't think about it, just do it. It'll work. go to lowes get bricks wait in yard. throw said brick at vehicle. If thats me and that just happened to me Im going looking for him after that. 1. Goto lowes 2. Get some bricks 3. ??? 4. PROFIT!! Profit from everything. LOVE ideas like this. xD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobmcbob_345 Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 If you want to get the flatest response I would go seald. And seald can also be loud too. If you go ported u would tune to anythin between 28 and 31 hz for the flatest response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torres Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 ever thought about using aeros? more efficient and take up less room in the box. too late for me to go into detail, but throwing something out there for you to think about until someone else chimes in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2k6 Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 I think a few Aeros could solve your problem much more efficient in space and performance wise. just cost a bit more Quote Live life to the full... Then TURN THAT BITCH UP! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassl0va Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 I'm still here if you need help you know, I sent you an idea and you never replied? Quote My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub7Banger Posted September 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 (edited) If you want to get the flatest response I would go seald. And seald can also be loud too. If you go ported u would tune to anythin between 28 and 31 hz for the flatest response. Well I was gonna go sealed but the Level 5 isn't reccomended to be sealed, so i'm trying to work it out for ported. ever thought about using aeros? more efficient and take up less room in the box. too late for me to go into detail, but throwing something out there for you to think about until someone else chimes in Well I thought about aero's, only problem is I kinda gotta make em ridiculously long, and I don't think they sell flared ones in the size I need so i'd have to use straight PVC. Would this create crappy sounding bass because of port noise? I've got it equated out to 3x 6" ports 31.5 inches in length, with 15.25 external port length, giving me 32.59hz tuning, and puts me exactly at 5.5cubes after all displacement. Also this gives me 15.41 square inches per foot, and a port area of 84.78 square inches. I think a few Aeros could solve your problem much more efficient in space and performance wise. just cost a bit more See above reply. Seems to work out pretty well, and yeah, a 12 foot section of PVC is like 48 bucks at Lowes. I'm still here if you need help you know, I sent you an idea and you never replied? Yeah bro, I'm sorry. I just didn't wanna blow your idea down. I can't upgrade to 1" MDF because of cost/lack of it being at Lowe's. Edited September 17, 2010 by Dub7Banger Quote Warning, you are taking advice from a noob with 0 install experience at this point, any advice I give is strictly based on information gathered via the intrawebz and lots of forum surfing over a period of 2 months If you are considering buying a DC Level 5, do it. Don't think about it, just do it. It'll work. go to lowes get bricks wait in yard. throw said brick at vehicle. If thats me and that just happened to me Im going looking for him after that. 1. Goto lowes 2. Get some bricks 3. ??? 4. PROFIT!! Profit from everything. LOVE ideas like this. xD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub7Banger Posted September 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 Well I thought about aero's, only problem is I kinda gotta make em ridiculously long, and I don't think they sell flared ones in the size I need so i'd have to use straight PVC. Would this create crappy sounding bass because of port noise? Anyone? Quote Warning, you are taking advice from a noob with 0 install experience at this point, any advice I give is strictly based on information gathered via the intrawebz and lots of forum surfing over a period of 2 months If you are considering buying a DC Level 5, do it. Don't think about it, just do it. It'll work. go to lowes get bricks wait in yard. throw said brick at vehicle. If thats me and that just happened to me Im going looking for him after that. 1. Goto lowes 2. Get some bricks 3. ??? 4. PROFIT!! Profit from everything. LOVE ideas like this. xD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 you wont have a problem with PVC the way you have it planned out. just make sure there is at least 6" on both ends, for that port to breathe. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dub7Banger Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 you wont have a problem with PVC the way you have it planned out. just make sure there is at least 6" on both ends, for that port to breathe. Seems like an odd question, but, since i'll have the woofer in the trunk firing towards the trunk lid, would it sound good if I cut three holes in my back seat and ran the ports through the holes? Sealing up around them of course so the trunk and cabin remain separate. Quote Warning, you are taking advice from a noob with 0 install experience at this point, any advice I give is strictly based on information gathered via the intrawebz and lots of forum surfing over a period of 2 months If you are considering buying a DC Level 5, do it. Don't think about it, just do it. It'll work. go to lowes get bricks wait in yard. throw said brick at vehicle. If thats me and that just happened to me Im going looking for him after that. 1. Goto lowes 2. Get some bricks 3. ??? 4. PROFIT!! Profit from everything. LOVE ideas like this. xD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmzsuzuki89 Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 Also this gives me 15.41 square inches per foot, and a port area of 84.78 square inches. You don't need that much port area when using aeros...You will be fine with 8-10" of port area per cube with true aeros. Quote My Feedback Thread http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/103868-official-rmzsuzuki89-feedback-thread/page__pid__1441542#entry1441542 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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