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"" hyperground"" "DIY"homemade"


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These components commonly use a variable ground (negative) signal connected to the computer; thus the problem. Engines and transmissions are typically grounded to the alternator and battery in one location, mainly the motor block. Usually there is a great distance between this grounding point and the various electrical components, not to mention that these components are seldom mounted to the block itself. This creates variations in the voltage at these multiple mechanisms. As a sensor sends information to the computer, the computer in return sends out a signal to make the necessary adjustment(s) to other components. However, if there is a slight variation in the voltage, the computer will not compensate correctly, causing a loss in horsepower. And this is where the Hyper Ground System comes in. It provides a direct ground path from battery negative to body, chassis and engine components, making for an extreme improvement in electrical circulation. According to Sun Automobile, there are multiple benefits to using this system: horsepower and torque gains; better gas mileage; and quicker engine starts. The company also claims that it can reduce audio noise.

There you go, the grounding system provided by OEM's is typically shit. Straight from the CA&E link.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

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but wat if u have a truck and dont have struts up front like cars do???? were do i need to put them????

Bolt them to the windshield wipers..

After all they have a shitty ground so re-grounding them with wire and not the vehicle chassis will gain you valuable horsepower at the wiper motor for faster wiping of the wipers in tremendous down pours!

 

 

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Hahahaha 'a great distance'

Yes, because it takes electricity, travelling at the speed of light, an appreciably longer time to travel these distances?

The resistance of your factory grounds, when you're not trying to cram 1000A through them like half of us, is negligible.

SoloX, of course that link says the same thing... Import Tuner is who actually did the 'testing' in the CA&E test, if you read the article properly.

Grounding kits are more retarded than capacitors. At least capacitors do SOMETHING.

It's pretty well established that grounding kits are one of the bigger scams out there, and also well proven that they do NOTHING on a dyno, when you're not being paid off.

This is even directly quoted from groundingkits.co.uk:

"*This always creates a lot of debate - the generally accepted theory is that installation of an earthing kit can restore lost power/torque, where the loss is due to inefficient earthing, due to age, wear & tear etc. You might not realise your car is running short on power because of an earthing issue, but when a grounding kit fixes this you'll notice."

In other words, if your ground is faulty, it might put a bandaid on it.

Edited by Boon

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

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Hahahaha 'a great distance'

Yes, because it takes electricity, travelling at the speed of light, an appreciably longer time to travel these distances?

The resistance of your factory grounds, when you're not trying to cram 1000A through them like half of us, is negligible.

SoloX, of course that link says the same thing... Import Tuner is who actually did the 'testing' in the CA&E test, if you read the article properly.

Grounding kits are more retarded than capacitors. At least capacitors do SOMETHING.

It's pretty well established that grounding kits are one of the bigger scams out there, and also well proven that they do NOTHING on a dyno, when you're not being paid off.

This is even directly quoted from groundingkits.co.uk:

"*This always creates a lot of debate - the generally accepted theory is that installation of an earthing kit can restore lost power/torque, where the loss is due to inefficient earthing, due to age, wear & tear etc. You might not realise your car is running short on power because of an earthing issue, but when a grounding kit fixes this you'll notice."

In other words, if your ground is faulty, it might put a bandaid on it.

Regardless of your theory on it, it's still proven to add power. More than you had from the get-go. No, I'm not saying get THAT specific grounding kit. Which is about 8 times over-priced. Knu 4g would be perfect for something like this. Or in the audio world, zero gauge.

:clapping:

Derp.

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There is no theory.

The kit if fixing a problem from the OEM, at best.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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I know that throttle bodies with servo style electric butterflies can have bad grounds and a new ground to them will improve throttle response. That's about it. I know it's true because I did it to my girlfriends Chevy Cobalt.

That is called drive by wire instead of the factory using a throttle cable.

I still dont think reground will help.

If these grounds thru the aluminum is so damn bad, the factory wouldnt let these vehicles leave the plant..

Its no different then using Aluminum for BusBars in a install.... Aluminum is not the most conductive metal but it works just fine, and power is distrubited thru these high spl vehicles without issue... If it was so bad, dont think Mr Meade would of used aluminum is his hoe, nor with Chickens hoopty, and as you can tell from the gear used in that install that price was no concern!

 

 

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That is called drive by wire instead of the factory using a throttle cable.

I still dont think reground will help.

If these grounds thru the aluminum is so damn bad, the factory wouldnt let these vehicles leave the plant..

Its no different then using Aluminum for BusBars in a install.... Aluminum is not the most conductive metal but it works just fine, and power is distrubited thru these high spl vehicles without issue... If it was so bad, dont think Mr Meade would of used aluminum is his hoe, nor with Chickens hoopty, and as you can tell from the gear used in that install that price was no concern!

Well the issue is the intake manifold that it is bolted to is plastic. the servo has its own ground through the cable it recieves power from, it's just a crappy connection through the cable. Hence why the new ground helps it.

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