Rainman215 Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 Lmao that would be something to see. When the time comes I'll try and help if I can. My 02 Accord Wall Build 2 Sundown Audio Nightshade V1 18s --- 1 SAZ 3500 Sundown Audio 100.4 --- 4 Sundown Audio Neo-Pro 8s Sundown Audio 125.2 --- 2 Morel MD-12 Tweeters , 2 Selenium ST-200 Tweeters DC Power 270xp --- 4 XS Power D1200s | 1 D5100R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted September 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 I'd go a bit higher than 4 if you can. Rise is the upper fluctuation level of your active variable resistive load (its the maximum excursion level of the coil in the magnetic gap).. say you attach a 1 ohm driver to an amp. It will have a high and a low peak. If you want to use "rise" to make more power you do it for burps in SPL. You dont do it for daily. Given the number of drivers you are using i'd maybe shoot for a bit higher than 4 ohms, though technically tweeters dont fluctuate their resistive value as bad as a subwoofer with a coil that jumps around in the gap a lot I guess. I am not a burp guy, all the rise talk was said by others because i don't really know anything about it. Im thinking about making it 4 ohm for all 100 or 8 for just 50. Its going to be a lot of trial and error. And Nate, you got any 8 gauge? Im sure you will get to help, i'm gonna try to get a ton of help. i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 Let me just say thanks for making this thread. All the talk about rise along with the explanations made it a nice laugh for the day. Good luck with the project! Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted September 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 Let me just say thanks for making this thread. All the talk about rise along with the explanations made it a nice laugh for the day. Good luck with the project! Haha thanks i guess? This thread is the reason Boon made that rant. i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moetpoppin Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 fiberglassed and matte black door panels? I think that would look sick question tho.... what are you gonna do for mids then? haha TY Moet poppin', hoe hoppin', aint no stoppin' B.I.G. poppa, I'm a bad boy Party and Bullshit - The Notorious B.I.G. Honest estimate on this truck when it's all done........... 172.3........... Ehh.. U are aware of what 172.3 is, right? yep..... Two Pyle 15"s Build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moetpoppin Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 makes me think of this... TY Moet poppin', hoe hoppin', aint no stoppin' B.I.G. poppa, I'm a bad boy Party and Bullshit - The Notorious B.I.G. Honest estimate on this truck when it's all done........... 172.3........... Ehh.. U are aware of what 172.3 is, right? yep..... Two Pyle 15"s Build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinadams Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 omg eclipse chris. if this works i'm gonna be fuckin amazed. plus if you succeed, i think you'll be the first with door panels that have so many fuckin tweets. 2 12" memphis mojo mojo12d4 hifonics brutus bxi 2610D 1/0 power wire 4 gauge speaker wire ddm tuning 8000k 35w hids C&D technologies battery (100 ah) custom box tuned to around 45hz(designed buy fritosaregood) 2010 kia forte koup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EclipseChris Posted September 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 fiberglassed and matte black door panels? I think that would look sick question tho.... what are you gonna do for mids then? haha Tweets in doors and mids in the back panels. Eclipse is a 2 door. I wanna find mids like the 10's that trippi used and glass 2 or 4 in each side. omg eclipse chris. if this works i'm gonna be fuckin amazed. plus if you succeed, i think you'll be the first with door panels that have so many fuckin tweets. Haha thats the point And just in doors im going to have 200 drivers i resolve to be a nicer moderator. Tercel build R.I.P. Eclipse build Old New V-Dub My feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 I'm sure you know this, but you'll need either a ton of less powerful mids or a few really powerful ones. Do I see 8" level 2s for mids? Nah, you'll need friggen level 4s to compensate all those tweets..haha On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 I'd go a bit higher than 4 if you can. Rise is the upper fluctuation level of your active variable resistive load (its the maximum excursion level of the coil in the magnetic gap).. say you attach a 1 ohm driver to an amp. It will have a high and a low peak. If you want to use "rise" to make more power you do it for burps in SPL. You dont do it for daily. Given the number of drivers you are using i'd maybe shoot for a bit higher than 4 ohms, though technically tweeters dont fluctuate their resistive value as bad as a subwoofer with a coil that jumps around in the gap a lot I guess. Just in a simpler view, the subs fluctuate in resistance due to like above, how the woofer is made and the enclosure can effect rise as well. When you wire say a dual 2 ohm sub in parallel down to 1 ohm and put that to your amp. Your amp when everything is turned off and still etc. your amp will see that 1 ohm load. this is called nominal load ie:. when nothing is playing etc, just wired up. When your music is playing the sub moves, and the actual impedence moves too its not 1 ohm like before, its changing every second. the easiest way to see this is to just plug your sub to a dmm and is read 4ohm or 2ohm or w.e and gently push on the sub moving it and you will see that your dmm will now show different readings.. Why to consider rise:Well for the everyday bump in your trunk, it doesnt matter, but for serious/ competition ppl it matters. Amps are rated for certain power at certain ohm loads. ie:. 1000w @ 1ohm. So when your wire your amp up at 1ohm and check the impedence at a certain frequency , it will likely come out to be more than 1ohm maybe less, b/c like above impedence changes. People in comps trying to burp the loudest score take rise into account.. will wire thier amps up nominal to like .5ohm, .25ohm something low and when they burp, rise will bring their impedence up to 1 ohm for instance, so their amps can put out max power. because say a 10kw amp wired at 1ohm nominal will see higher than 1 ohm during the burp and put out less than 10kw so thier trying to get the most out of thier amps for that 3-5 sec burp. Many amps are not really made to be wired soo low and you could fry the amp so unless you know what your doing just stay with what its rated at. also rise doesnt really matter for music as the impedence always changes and while you might see a little more power on music, competeors look to see a significant amount of extra power at a certain frequency. Also figuring out what your amp is seeing impendence wise, what is putting out power wise, what your rise actually is, is called a clamp test, youll need a dmm , and a clamp meter, a guide can be found in the amp section iirc. Geez sorry for the long post, im lost and dont even remember what i said really, if im wrong please correct me, maybe i missed something or mixed something up, but thats basically it. P4 edit: what impendence the amp sees while playing is called reactive. And whether amp companies rate their amps power @ 1ohm for example, is based on a nominal load, or reactive load i have no idea Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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