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alright i was wondering about running a rear headunit for comps. Reason being that my girlfriend likes her 6 cd stock headunit that she has and dosnt really want to change up front but i was wondering about just having the headunit for running the amp and sub dosnt need to power the speakers up front just the amp and stuff. any helpers?

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YEah since my blazer is gone and she wants to go to a few shows before the season ends but i was wondering if you you even need to split into the stock headunit cant you just wire the Sub output and do the battery wire neg wire and just do the amp rca's and control the amp vol basically i dont want the door speakers to work lol ima just run a cd with the tone on it

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we could have answered this in your other thread instead of making a new one...

a HU is a HU. it needs power, ground, remote turn on, and a signal out. just hook it up the same as if you would on the dash. its the same shit.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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we could have answered this in your other thread instead of making a new one...

a HU is a HU. it needs power, ground, remote turn on, and a signal out. just hook it up the same as if you would on the dash. its the same shit.

Skittles is correct.

Why I suggested running the wiring from up front to the back in parallel is so you can keep the stock speaker wiring. Unless you can find a way to run the new head unit as a an input to the stock one.

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Skittles is correct.

Why I suggested running the wiring from up front to the back in parallel is so you can keep the stock speaker wiring. Unless you can find a way to run the new head unit as a an input to the stock one.

he doesnt want the stock speakers playing, just the sub. the stock HU would be turned off when he competes and only the sub will play off of the new HU. no need to run anything from the stock HU. dont even need a remote turn on because you will want to just unplug the new HU when you are not using it so the remote gets connected to a constant.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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Is there a battery in the trunk? If so put the constant and remote together on the pos and the neg on the neg. Hook up your rcas. And you're done. Disconnect all when done

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