Do you have to do a double baffle?

[bigbodylexus]

what screws do you use. Shitty screws seems to be what 99% of the people use. How many boxes have you actually built and tested? I'm not trying to get pissy with you, but i have plenty of experience with this matter, and you seem to be completely losing the fact that is being pointed out.

In all my years (19, dealing with car audio) I have never had issues with enclosures due to "shitty screws". I have one now that I used back in 95 and it's still going strong. My current enclosure in my car now is double baffled but the subs are countersunk and it's braced and I haven't had an issue yet.

[loburbon]

In all my years (19, dealing with car audio) I have never had issues with enclosures due to "shitty screws". I have one now that I used back in 95 and it's still going strong. My current enclosure in my car now is double baffled but the subs are countersunk and it's braced and I haven't had an issue yet.

Man you are completely missing the point. And you have a box from 95, ok good for you. how much power is going into the subs. Probably not much. And if you have been doing this for 19 years and you've never had a problem with screws, then your either very lucky or running a low powered setup. i never updated my sig, but the blazer did a 150 flat@43hz, my yukon 153.4@37hz, my s10 now with only 2300rms 149.8@43hz. Using home depot regular screws, they snap easy. Step up to hardened deck screws or spax screws, no more problems. Basic point is double baffle for strength. But a countersunk sub is more likely to break a screw then a non countersunk sub. Thats the point im making.

[bigbodylexus]

Man you are completely missing the point. And you have a box from 95, ok good for you. how much power is going into the subs. Probably not much. And if you have been doing this for 19 years and you've never had a problem with screws, then your either very lucky or running a low powered setup. i never updated my sig, but the blazer did a 150 flat@43hz, my yukon 153.4@37hz, my s10 now with only 2300rms 149.8@43hz. Using home depot regular screws, they snap easy. Step up to hardened deck screws or spax screws, no more problems. Basic point is double baffle for strength. But a countersunk sub is more likely to break a screw then a non countersunk sub. Thats the point im making.

Pay attention to the bold print "Lo", the question was "do you have to do a double baffle?" the answer is No. I know people who have multiple runs of 1/0 ga. wiring with no fuses and they have never had issues. Grab any manual from any amplifier made and the company will tell you to fuse the wire. Not to sound pissy either, is double baffling a good idea? absolutely, is it necessary? absolutely not

[MrSkippyJ]

Man you are completely missing the point. And you have a box from 95, ok good for you. how much power is going into the subs. Probably not much. And if you have been doing this for 19 years and you've never had a problem with screws, then your either very lucky or running a low powered setup. i never updated my sig, but the blazer did a 150 flat@43hz, my yukon 153.4@37hz, my s10 now with only 2300rms 149.8@43hz. Using home depot regular screws, they snap easy. Step up to hardened deck screws or spax screws, no more problems. Basic point is double baffle for strength. But a countersunk sub is more likely to break a screw then a non countersunk sub. Thats the point im making.

How does countersinking vs not countersinking make the screw more or less likely to break?

[loburbon]

i answered that in my first post saying no. But that in his case it was a good idea. I also said its a box to box basis. cheap tens on 600 watts it isn't needed or even worth suggesting. but on a stout set up then yes its suggested, but still not required.

[Jman08]

why the hell would people want to brace with 2x4's

[loburbon]

How does countersinking vs not countersinking make the screw more or less likely to break?

with a single baffle you have the force that the sub is excurting to only 3/4" of a screw. yet with a double baffle and no countersink, then you have 1.5" to spread the force over the screw. think about it in another way. Would you want to drive a car with a lugnut that only has 1/4 of material to tighten up against or at least 1/2". The more area you have to spread force over the stronger its going to be.

[MrSkippyJ]

with a single baffle you have the force that the sub is excurting to only 3/4" of a screw. yet with a double baffle and no countersink, then you have 1.5" to spread the force over the screw. think about it in another way. Would you want to drive a car with a lugnut that only has 1/4 of material to tighten up against or at least 1/2". The more area you have to spread force over the stronger its going to be.

Now it makes sense, I thought that the screw heads popping off was the culprit. I couldn't figure out why more wood below the screw would keep that from happening.

[Rogers]

one thing i learned a long time ago... dont use wood screws to mount a woofer... i use this type of screw

i think i used the #12 x 2" to mount my woofers in my double baffle... ive had no problems at all