dionysus Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Ive checked the in line fuses, amp fuses, in dash dvd fuses, and fuse panel on car fuse and NONE are blown, It just stopped working a couple days ago, I re wired my subs so they would hit harder and they did but it was too much for my car cause when I turned it up past like 20 out of 40 volume it would cut off, so I had to keepem at a lower level, Im REALLY frustrated and about to breal somethhing cause Ive checked everything I can think of and still NO closer to having it working PLEASE HELP ME, thank you! oh the car is a 1983 chevy caprice 4 door, 0 gauge monster cable wiring kit, 2400 watt plye chopper series amp, jensen in dash dvd i believe 400 watt out put, and 2 lanzar heritage 15s, (and I know I know cheap amp and subs but they were working suppringly well for the couple hundred I spent on em till my disability comes thru so I can start saving up for my FI 18s!!) So ANY help would be GREATLY appriciated!! Quote Build log link, (Slow Build) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183469-dionysuss-02-eddie-bauer-explorer-slow-budget-build-sundown-4-chan-guts-pg-4/ Team AB son! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 my 1st guess is that you fried the amp by wiring the subs to a final load that was too small for the amp. does the amp turn on? Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dionysus Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 my 1st guess is that you fried the amp by wiring the subs to a final load that was too small for the amp. does the amp turn on? Nope it doesnt turn on at all, I was thinking the amp probably fried just cause how cheap it was, just didnt know why thatd not let the in dash work but it is all connected so Im not too supprised Quote Build log link, (Slow Build) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183469-dionysuss-02-eddie-bauer-explorer-slow-budget-build-sundown-4-chan-guts-pg-4/ Team AB son! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 well without knowing how you have all this wired i couldnt say. but the amp fried because of you. say the amp is rated at 2ohm at the lowest, if you wire to 1ohm the amp will overheat and cook itself from the increase in current. since the amp is cheap, the protection didnt save it. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baaudio Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 By all connected do you mean you're getting constant from the amp for your radio? And you checked the fuse on your radio if it has one? I suppose the amp could have took a shit and caused the remote to short out and damage the radio but not likely Quote Team NWSPL baaudio Build Log 2001 GMC Sierra walkthrough 4 Mechman Elite 370s, 10 AGM batteries, 3 Crossfire XS v2 18s, Crossfire 8k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dionysus Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I wired the subs to the crutchfield sub wiring chart for a 2 channel amp for 2 dvc subs, I also have a Orion XTR 450 xtreme power/X-over (thats what it says on the front) that I dont know if it still works my older brother gave it to me awhile back, I might hook that up to see if it works at all still, and then go from there, I figured I overloaded it, I had a Kole audio 1920watt amp and 2 image dynamic 15s in the car I had before this one and they were real loud this set up cant even compair to that one I miss it, I hit a 127 with them, I want to get that amp again cause it was a beast but I dont know Im on a harsh budget waiting on disability to come thru so I cant really do much at the minute unfortanitly. THANK YOU very much for the help I really appriciate it! Quote Build log link, (Slow Build) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183469-dionysuss-02-eddie-bauer-explorer-slow-budget-build-sundown-4-chan-guts-pg-4/ Team AB son! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dionysus Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 By all connected do you mean you're getting constant from the amp for your radio? And you checked the fuse on your radio if it has one? I suppose the amp could have took a shit and caused the remote to short out and damage the radio but not likely I was just meaning all connected as in the power is all coming from just the 1 car battery, but yeah I have the remote wire from amp to deck so that it turns it off when the decks off, and yeah I checked the fuse in the back of the in dash dvd player and it wasn't blown, no fuses were witch threw me off at first, but if the amp just fried thatd make sense cause Im sure when I re wired it it took it to a too low ohm load to run stable at, this just comes at the worst time I wont have any kind of income to put twards it for awhile unfortinatly Quote Build log link, (Slow Build) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183469-dionysuss-02-eddie-bauer-explorer-slow-budget-build-sundown-4-chan-guts-pg-4/ Team AB son! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 there are a few ways to wire a sub. post a link to exactly what you did. baaudio, thats a good call. check the HU fuse. he could also try to touch one wire from the 12+ wire to the remote terminal on the amp. just to see if it turns on(dont leave it like that!). if it does, then you have a problem with the remote lead. either the wire broke or the hu isnt sending power through it. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dionysus Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 there are a few ways to wire a sub. post a link to exactly what you did. baaudio, thats a good call. check the HU fuse. he could also try to touch one wire from the 12+ wire to the remote terminal on the amp. just to see if it turns on(dont leave it like that!). if it does, then you have a problem with the remote lead. either the wire broke or the hu isnt sending power through it. http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_4-ohm_2ch.jpg I hope that link works or I hope the pic of it shows up, Quote Build log link, (Slow Build) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183469-dionysuss-02-eddie-bauer-explorer-slow-budget-build-sundown-4-chan-guts-pg-4/ Team AB son! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berto Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 And you're 100% sure your subs are Dual 4ohm and not Dual 2ohm? Also, on your indash power wire (the yellow, not red) is there a little box on it? Not where the fuse goes, another box. Quote TEAM FLEX ISSUES Car: 1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royal 24" Rims HU: 7" Carputer, Planet Audio EQ, iPhone. Coax: T3 Audio 4" speakers Subs: 2x 18" T3 Audio TSNS (walled) Sub Amp: DC 9k SOON TO COME T3 Audio 6x9s MB Quarts 6.5" comp set MAYBE ADDED 2nd DC 9k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.