HyperliteLF920 Posted October 15, 2010 Report Posted October 15, 2010 Okay, so I have a Rockford Fosgate T-1500 amp for my 15" Fi BL; and I am planning on getting a Rockford Fosgate P400-4, and Crescendo Audio CCX 6.5's for my doors. So far, I have 4gauge wiring going to battery to amp and amp to ground. So my question is, should I just add another 4gauge wiring kit for the P400-4, or go with 1/0 and then distribute it into 2 x 4gauge wires (1 per amp) [sEE PIC] Also, if I go with the 1/0 do I have to fuse after the distribution block? Thanks so much for any help! -Ed 2003 Ford Taurus 15" Fi BL fully loaded T1500-1 amp Crescendo CCX525s in fronts Kenwoods in rear P400-4 amp
Bumpin the TWP Posted October 15, 2010 Report Posted October 15, 2010 I would fuse after the distribution block EDIT: and go with the 1/0 theres better power transfer and less resistance. 2x Sundown Audio SA-15's nuff said for my little old car 1999 Plymouth Breeze Build Log
P4killer_ Posted October 15, 2010 Report Posted October 15, 2010 Okay, so I have a Rockford Fosgate T-1500 amp for my 15" Fi BL; and I am planning on getting a Rockford Fosgate P400-4, and Crescendo Audio CCX 6.5's for my doors. So far, I have 4gauge wiring going to battery to amp and amp to ground. So my question is, should I just add another 4gauge wiring kit for the P400-4, or go with 1/0 and then distribute it into 2 x 4gauge wires (1 per amp) [sEE PIC] Also, if I go with the 1/0 do I have to fuse after the distribution block? Thanks so much for any help! -Ed What Id do Is get 1/0 from ur front bat to the back. You should have a fuse after the front battery (no more than 12inches away from bat) run the wire through. Then into the distro block in the back, and 4 awg to p400, 1/0 or 4awg w/e it accepts to 1500. the key here is this: you need to have a fuse in the BACK too. some distro blocks are fused and this would be your best option, but and indentical fuse in the back before the distro is needed if the distro isnt a fused one. ie:. 250a after front bat and 250a before distro block. so if there is a short between ur bat and ur amps, you wont smoke anything Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s
Bumpin the TWP Posted October 15, 2010 Report Posted October 15, 2010 What Id do Is get 1/0 from ur front bat to the back. You should have a fuse after the front battery (no more than 12inches away from bat) run the wire through. Then into the distro block in the back, and 4 awg to p400, 1/0 or 4awg w/e it accepts to 1500. the key here is this: you need to have a fuse in the BACK too. some distro blocks are fused and this would be your best option, but and indentical fuse in the back before the distro is needed if the distro isnt a fused one. ie:. 250a after front bat and 250a before distro block. so if there is a short between ur bat and ur amps, you wont smoke anything agreed 2x Sundown Audio SA-15's nuff said for my little old car 1999 Plymouth Breeze Build Log
HyperliteLF920 Posted October 15, 2010 Author Report Posted October 15, 2010 Thanks for the help; got another question though... Does it matter how long my 1/0 is before I distribute? The reason I ask is because I was thinking of just ordering a 1/0 amp kit and using the extra wire for the Big 3. Thanks -Ed 2003 Ford Taurus 15" Fi BL fully loaded T1500-1 amp Crescendo CCX525s in fronts Kenwoods in rear P400-4 amp
P4killer_ Posted October 15, 2010 Report Posted October 15, 2010 ummmm really i guess not... yea, i dont see why making the 1/0 shorter would causes any problems what so ever. i mean i wouldnt distribute in front , the two fuses so close together could create alot of resistance , but say if you had 18ft which is usually what a kit includes, you needed 16ft of it, and instead you used 13ft then distributed leaving you with 5 ft of 1/0 left. but really youll prolly need a good 8 ft of 1/0 at least to do the big 3 so idk that i would order a kit, planning on using half of it for the big 3. what id do is simply order ya know ~15ft or w.e of 1/0 from knuconceptz for the big 3, itll prolly run you like 25 ish bux. youll need ring terminals too. Or you would even be fine doing the big 3 in 4awg seriously. if you have a stock alt, and dont plan on getting a h/o alt from mechman or w.e 4awg will serve you just fine. you can get 4awg from knuconceptz or darvex.com for pretty low -- id do that GL ,P4killer edit: lemme say this, for most ppl 4awg would work. if you have a big ford truck like in the avatar, maybe not. 4 awg is roughly good for like 140a iirc soo.. if you have a car with a 105a stock alt ur good to go. if you got a big ole f250 with like a 130-150+a alternator, your gonna have to use 1/0 - especially if you buying cheaper wire like knuconceptz. its good wire mind you, but not the best so if you gonna be pushing the limits of your wire capacity, id do it with more premium wire, or just simply get bigger wire like 1/0 dont forget youll need a fuse for the big 3 as well from your alt to bat + Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s
Autruche Posted October 15, 2010 Report Posted October 15, 2010 just buy like 30 feet of knukonceptz KLMX wire, and all the fuseblocks, fuses, terminals and distribution block you need. Fuse your positive for your big 3, fuse your power wire from battery to amps up front, then fuse both lines right after the distribution block. Check here for cheap fuseblocks with combined shipping, and don't forget terminals. Need Test Tones/Sine Waves? Click Here!My Saab 9000 build1993 Saab 9000 Aero 5spdPioneer - Zapco - Hifonics - Sundown Audio - O2 Audio - RE AudioJust Say No To Rear SpeakersJust Say No To CCA WireReal Men Drive StickHit me up on Facebook, if you want
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