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BTL-N2 pics


NDMstang65

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Where is the info in the N1, specifically the N1 10's? Nothing on your site for them.

I actually think some of the other versions should of been out by now, but the CNC and cover molding problem really slowed everything down.

I really like the N1 design though. It should be a interesting sub none the less. I might even buy one, just cause.

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Where is the info in the N1, specifically the N1 10's? Nothing on your site for them.

its still in the testing stages. They were trying a different coil option and are figuring out whats up with it. What specs were you looking for?

Looking for coil size, bl, fs, re of 1ohm and 2ohm coils, xmax, pe and if maybe if I could get them in a .7 or 1.4ohm coil?

"i'd rather die like a man than live like a coward" quoted from Tupac

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Where is the info in the N1, specifically the N1 10's? Nothing on your site for them.

its still in the testing stages. They were trying a different coil option and are figuring out whats up with it. What specs were you looking for?

Looking for coil size, bl, fs, re of 1ohm and 2ohm coils, xmax, pe and if maybe if I could get them in a .7 or 1.4ohm coil?

im pretty sure the coil resistance will be the same as it is now .7 or 1.4's.

Also watch the vid of the N1 Xmax is ALOT lol and as for those parameters they wont t/s parameters until they are done testing and its a 3" coil. Nick will tell you that those parameters mean nothing in the real world. you want those for a design program?

Johns.jpgSuburban Coming Soon

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No, I want them for the "real world". Thanks.

EDIT: every part of the t/s parameters are important, they can tell you how musical a sub is and everything. I like to know these types of things. Qes, qms, vas, mms, all of those are also important to me. I can't just look at a sub that has a DC, AA, FI or any other name on it and immediately buy it. Though each one of those companies have great products, I have to look at the t/s to see what is gonna fit me best. You know?

"i'd rather die like a man than live like a coward" quoted from Tupac

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not hating but how much Neo is actually there...is it that little thin layer of dark gray or the taller lighter gray layer that takes up the majority of the structure...with the price it just seems like theres not much there considering the price of the Neo itself...it seems more or less to get into the competition of Neos and beat everyones prices so they can say "i have a Neo subwoofer" when it has the same as or less power as a normal high end ferrite magnet.

i could be wrong im just asking. again please dont take this as hate or bashing..its just a question...

Surface area and grade of materials is key. It is the very thin layer of material. That is all that is needed.

We've found that there is a very truth to a such thing as entirely too much motor force. The N2 motor with the 2 pads of neo has 10% less motor strength than the 11.25" diameter ferrite motor, and many people have gained with the N2 motor in daily driving applications...simply because too much motor force causes a saddle shaped response curve and you break up the 'peak' into 2 peaks and a valley when you have too much motor force.

Sorry if you feel that we're trying to beat everybody's prices..

The fact and truth of the matter is that we use precisely what we need to use, and not a bit more. Why spend the extra 100 dollars on magnetic material that is not needed..and the end user will never use?

I'd rather give the consumer a better deal on a sub that preforms better for a musical application and sounds better for a daily driver then charge them 1800 bucks for something that is completely not what they need.

Authorized Ascendant Audio Dealer! Message me for information.

If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough -Albert Einstein

"I have a plausible excuse for not liking you. And you know why."

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No, I want them for the "real world". Thanks.

EDIT: every part of the t/s parameters are important, they can tell you how musical a sub is and everything. I like to know these types of things. Qes, qms, vas, mms, all of those are also important to me. I can't just look at a sub that has a DC, AA, FI or any other name on it and immediately buy it. Though each one of those companies have great products, I have to look at the t/s to see what is gonna fit me best. You know?

They aren't overly important..if you enjoy modeling then that's fine, the parameters are available and posted on the website for available subs. What we say to put the subs in simply works best for a musical application...

If you are looking for something that is intended to be the 2000 watt predecessor of the single slug BTL of the past then the N2 is the way to go. If you are looking for something more SQ oriented, then the N1 is the way to go.

If you are looking for something that is STRICTLY SPL oriented, then the N3 is the way to go.

SG...that will be extreme applications only.

Authorized Ascendant Audio Dealer! Message me for information.

If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough -Albert Einstein

"I have a plausible excuse for not liking you. And you know why."

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