Tinsel Leads Broke

[meade916]

i wonder why people keep saying a BTL is no good at SQ......i think they sound great. I would personally NEVER go to an Orion over a Fi sub but im glad its working for you.

As far as tinsel issues.....my RE MT used to go thru them all the time on my old BD1500's when i was running 8 on 4 subs but now, i have 4 amps on 4 subs and the tinsel breakage is almost zero. I broke 1 in 1 year of slapping. I broke 1 sub in the same time frame (coil was fine i litterally broke the cone off of it). So one tinsel and one cone.....after hundreds of demos and daily abuse. The amount of damage was 10x more with the old amp/sub combo. I have my suspicions but im not blaming the sub. That being said, It almost seems like there is something else going on if someone goes thru so many tinsels, especially a beefy one like on a BTL.

[Amalan]

yea i dunno i think the btl sounds pretty damn good for being a so called "spl" sub. the sq is fine on it and im sure by now scott has tried to fix the tinsel lead problem the early fi subs had.

[Eric B]

why dont he just stitch the tinsel lead in to the spider....

[meade916]

id like to see some pics of your broken tinsel......is it broke from being physically pulled or burnt in the middle?

[NotoriouslyLoud]

i would have to agree with Steve on this one. I run my 18 to the tilt all the time and have no problems at all. And as far as "SQ" i think everybody has there own taste, but IMO they are some of the best sounding subs i have ever had.

[Amalan]

id like to see some pics of your broken tinsel......is it broke from being physically pulled or burnt in the middle?

good point let me go check and take pics

[Forevrbumpn]

in my days of speaker repair/design, I have noticed 3 kinds of tinsel breakage, 1 is manufacturer defect, 1 is customers box design (over xmaxing the sub based on box design- no subsonic filter) and other is a mix of manufacturer.customer abuse, power wise burning a gap in the wire.- over powering

1) If the lead slaps against the cone, even on foam pads, its manufacturer defect, because when they are soldered to the terminals, they have to be just perfectly tightened up- (foam pas will only last for so long before it starts to decay, and rip apart)

2) Box design- if the box is built to largely, to large of port area or tuned below the speakers natural Fs, the woofer will over xmax, which can rip the leads out, or cause a weak spot in the leads, and then the lead can fry, looking like an over power issue

3) to much power, weak leads cause an arc in the weakest part of the lead

and there is 2 kinds of stitched leads, 1 lead is fully stiched in to the lead, where the whol lead is a aprt of the spider which is okay with normal use, and not much power, then there is the best IMO, which is the thick lead stiched on only 2- 3 points on the spider, this allows the lead to be free, yet will never slap the cone, will last the longest, and will hold more power

[Amalan]

ok for some reason my camera wouldnt focus on the tinsel lead so the pics are really blurry.

that one looks like it was burnt upclose

the ends did not look burnt but a huge chunk in the middle was missing and its covered in pad so i dont really know what happened to this one

this one didnt look burnt but if you see in the background you can see a lot of thread in the pad and theres a small chunk missing out of the middle of this one too.

[Guest dropthabeat.com]

i wonder why people keep saying a BTL is no good at SQ......i think they sound great. I would personally NEVER go to an Orion over a Fi sub but im glad its working for you.

As far as tinsel issues.....my RE MT used to go thru them all the time on my old BD1500's when i was running 8 on 4 subs but now, i have 4 amps on 4 subs and the tinsel breakage is almost zero. I broke 1 in 1 year of slapping. I broke 1 sub in the same time frame (coil was fine i litterally broke the cone off of it). So one tinsel and one cone.....after hundreds of demos and daily abuse. The amount of damage was 10x more with the old amp/sub combo. I have my suspicions but im not blaming the sub. That being said, It almost seems like there is something else going on if someone goes thru so many tinsels, especially a beefy one like on a BTL.

even scott agreed with me that the sound quality while good, wasn't better than my eclipse ti pro, or other sq subs. i told him that while the btl hit harder and put out more, the sq on the others was cleaner. he agreed, he was asking me for feedback on his stuff probably just to improve. nothing wrong with that, i paid good cash for the sub so i'll let people know what i think and i've heard alot of shit (jl, fosgate subs, etc, etc.etc. in good business you always look for improvment, scott wants to make sure people are satisfied, that's good. i would've stuck with the fi but it kept breaking leads so why would i? the leads were just coming apart towards the terminal ends. now david from re was telling me the extreme leads were the issue. that theyre wire wrapped in braided wire so they tend to saw through eachother. i've heard people have this issue, i've heard people who haven't. i don't know! shit bassinyoface shit looks brand new still?? i don't know, he barely heard my HCCA today ask him how clean my shit sounds. i luved the btl fo sho, really did, but i'm having bad karma with it or someting, i luv the hcca even more. i never expected orion to put out anything like this, NEVER! even my homey was impressed with it, he's not easily impressed. i don't regret downsizing to a 12 from a 15 at all.

[Guest dropthabeat.com]

in my days of speaker repair/design, I have noticed 3 kinds of tinsel breakage, 1 is manufacturer defect, 1 is customers box design (over xmaxing the sub based on box design- no subsonic filter) and other is a mix of manufacturer.customer abuse, power wise burning a gap in the wire.- over powering

1) If the lead slaps against the cone, even on foam pads, its manufacturer defect, because when they are soldered to the terminals, they have to be just perfectly tightened up- (foam pas will only last for so long before it starts to decay, and rip apart)

2) Box design- if the box is built to largely, to large of port area or tuned below the speakers natural Fs, the woofer will over xmax, which can rip the leads out, or cause a weak spot in the leads, and then the lead can fry, looking like an over power issue

3) to much power, weak leads cause an arc in the weakest part of the lead

and there is 2 kinds of stitched leads, 1 lead is fully stiched in to the lead, where the whol lead is a aprt of the spider which is okay with normal use, and not much power, then there is the best IMO, which is the thick lead stiched on only 2- 3 points on the spider, this allows the lead to be free, yet will never slap the cone, will last the longest, and will hold more power

i agree 100%!!!!!

i tried all that! the only thing me & scott could come up is that the sub was too close to the trunk lid.