OldsBoomer Posted February 1, 2011 Report Posted February 1, 2011 Much better design and Ray got to tell you before i did. Trust me i've built a box like that just without the 2 front subs and i KNOW i was getting cancelation and you have seen my new design. It should be tuned at around 31-32Hzish i want to get it lower but i dont have the cubic space to give up. For the 4 12's im looking looking for 9+ cubes. with around 14.5-15.5 inches per cube. The V opening will give you MUCH better air flow and decrease the wave cancelation greatly. You might even want to try and angle those middle subs if you can, but it'll pound bro. Suburban Coming Soon
mazdaspl Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Posted February 1, 2011 Much better design and Ray got to tell you before i did. Trust me i've built a box like that just without the 2 front subs and i KNOW i was getting cancelation and you have seen my new design. It should be tuned at around 31-32Hzish i want to get it lower but i dont have the cubic space to give up. For the 4 12's im looking looking for 9+ cubes. with around 14.5-15.5 inches per cube. The V opening will give you MUCH better air flow and decrease the wave cancelation greatly. You might even want to try and angle those middle subs if you can, but it'll pound bro. Thanks Bro, after listening to all the advice i kept looking at the designs that have made and just did not like what i saw.. I thought to myself that I can do better than that.. Plus I want to get this right before I build something that sucks.. Jay
OldsBoomer Posted February 1, 2011 Report Posted February 1, 2011 Much better design and Ray got to tell you before i did. Trust me i've built a box like that just without the 2 front subs and i KNOW i was getting cancelation and you have seen my new design. It should be tuned at around 31-32Hzish i want to get it lower but i dont have the cubic space to give up. For the 4 12's im looking looking for 9+ cubes. with around 14.5-15.5 inches per cube. The V opening will give you MUCH better air flow and decrease the wave cancelation greatly. You might even want to try and angle those middle subs if you can, but it'll pound bro. Thanks Bro, after listening to all the advice i kept looking at the designs that have made and just did not like what i saw.. I thought to myself that I can do better than that.. Plus I want to get this right before I build something that sucks.. Jay Yes sir, been there and done that. I wouldn't say it sucked, but it could be improved on alot. First design was just the port opening and the subs on the port walls slightly angled. Cancelation was some what of an issue but i got HUGE rise. Killed my numbers. 146.1 on 4 12's but i did only have 550 watts due to rise so not to bad. It killed the lows but the new box design should be just as good if not a little better on the lows and have a much better higher end response. I'll also be adding more bracing. With the subs on the wall like this the bracing is key. I think i'll be adding 2x2's on the faces with the subs around the cut out to help increase strength. I cant wait to see how this turn out bro get to work early. Suburban Coming Soon
mazdaspl Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Posted February 1, 2011 I'm going to try and start some of the small stuff first.. I still need to tearout the current setup..need to still to do the cut out.. What is the best way to do that? From what I can tell by looking between the bed and the cab im going to need the new wide accordian boot..
OldsBoomer Posted February 1, 2011 Report Posted February 1, 2011 new wide boot? what is that? I put mine on and its easier when it was cold not as much extra slack the first time i did it i slide the whole bed back to put it on. The first time i cut it was with an angle grinder . It took about 8-10 disks. I would recommend a plasma cutter . The best thing ever to use. If thats not an option maybe a zaw zaw(sp?). I've seen thuse work well, just cut very slowly. After the cuts on the wall of the cab on the outside i grinded down the edge for the boot and painted it to prevent rust. Suburban Coming Soon
Fennygolf Posted February 2, 2011 Report Posted February 2, 2011 2 things the box looks bad ass but where are u gonna but the amp(s)??
mazdaspl Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Posted February 2, 2011 2 things the box looks bad ass but where are u gonna but the amp(s)?? Thanks.. the plan is to redo the extended cab part where my current wall is.. thats where the amps will be placed..
Fennygolf Posted February 2, 2011 Report Posted February 2, 2011 2 things the box looks bad ass but where are u gonna but the amp(s)?? Thanks.. the plan is to redo the extended cab part where my current wall is.. thats where the amps will be placed.. aww alright that will look very nice and that ALOT of 0/1 that will go from the back of your truck to your cab
mazdaspl Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Posted February 2, 2011 2 things the box looks bad ass but where are u gonna but the amp(s)?? Thanks.. the plan is to redo the extended cab part where my current wall is.. thats where the amps will be placed.. aww alright that will look very nice and that ALOT of 0/1 that will go from the back of your truck to your cab Well the battery placement is still up in the air.. if i can put them inside i will fab up something..
tiller1 Posted February 2, 2011 Report Posted February 2, 2011 that looksmuch better!!!! will probably be louder without the cancelation! "yes... it will play like that all day!"
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