question about dc power 270xp

[AMI CUSTOMS]

here's my birthsheet of my 250XP kyle just gave me back

With a voltage set point of 15.45 volts, I am not surprised it made that much current, what does it do in a "real world" environment? Like at 14.4 volts? Just curious.....How the sheet says test @ 14 volts and then a set point of 15.45 V, something doesn't add up here.

[Guest DC Power Rob]

It makes absolutely no real difference at all... If you look close, it says right on the sheet "output tested at 14v" Meaning, during the actual test, ALL measurements are at 14v, not 15.45v. If the test was ran at 15.45v, you would see a bunch of zeroes there because the alternator would think oh, Im at the point where I dont need to charge, so shut down.. The 15.45v is essentially at what point the alternator just shuts down because it thinks it's done it's job and can have a break.. And just FYI, that test is run at 2000 alt RPM with a 10a load. Alternators make MORE current at LOWER voltages than they do HIGH ones, especially at low speeds.. The ONLY exception to that rule is running them unregulated, then absolutely, the higher the input voltage gets and the faster they spin they just keep making more and more power...

If you want real world test results though, at least we provide them. Next time you see a dyno sheet that says tested at 12.9v, or 13.0v, or whatever voltage that's LOWER than 14v, it's complete BS. Pretty much, in short look at it this way, what looks better to the untrained eye, which looks bettter, one sheet says 180 amps at idle, one says 195 amps at idle? Well no shit Jackson the obvious answer is 195.. WRONG... What the untrained eye doesn't know is they're exactly the same alternator, tested differently.. How's that? The 180 at idle was ran at 14v and the 195 was at 12.9v, but they're the exact same WATTAGE.. 180*14v=2520w and 195*12.9v=2520w.. Same=same, but mis-represented, yeah, 195 sure sounds better, and it would be, if it was tested at the same voltage..

Trust me, there's nothing about what you see there that doesn't "add up"... Dont believe me, look at the total output in wattage listed below... 261@14v is 3650... [email protected] is 4032....

Believe me, I didn't drop $50K on a test machine so I could fake, or "skew" the real numbers.. I could tell everyone that that alternator does 208 at idle too, but we dont.. Maybe we should, 208 at idle sure sounds better than 180, which is what we officially rate those at, but when I say 180 at idle that's, 180 at idle, hot, all day every day.. Not, 208 at idle, for a split second, on the test bench.. It's all in perception and how the numbers are spun my friend..

here's my birthsheet of my 250XP kyle just gave me back

With a voltage set point of 15.45 volts, I am not surprised it made that much current, what does it do in a "real world" environment? Like at 14.4 volts? Just curious.....How the sheet says test @ 14 volts and then a set point of 15.45 V, something doesn't add up here.

[THEKINGsBACK]

srry to thread jack but it says you cant receive anymore message rob but i was wanting to inquire about an alt for my truck

[irpirate]

i checked the voltage of everything today how amicustoms told me to. checked voltage on underhood battery first. left positive probe on bat + and moved the neg probe around checking big 3 connections/grounds. did the same for the back batteries and grounds. everything was the exact same. according to what kyle told me over the phone the belt was already tight enough but i tightened it a bit more just to see if it would do anything. also took of the battery terminals on the front battery and just bolted/screwed the ring terminals directly onto the battery. gave it a test and apparently one of the two things i did helped because my voltage was doing quite a bit better with the music cranked. the terminals i was using were the big heavy ones from walmart. gonna take the terminals off the back batteries when i get the chance and see if that helps it.

[irpirate]

i got some 1/0 in the mail today so i did some things AMICUSTOMS suggested. grounded engine block right by where the alternator mounts to the bat -. left the ground from the same spot to the chasis. resanded all the connection points and tightened everything down well. added 2 runs of 1/0 for both + and - connecting the two back batteries. couldn't ground my second back battery cuz my huge ass box is in the way, gonna hafta wait till i take it out. did wonders, can actually play full tilt while driving(didn't pay close attention to rpm's, still bit of a drop at times though) quite a bit louder at idle (damn 4runner idles at ~600). i have a stinger volt meter coming in the mail so i'll know what the back batteries are at soon.(using one that sticks into the cigarette lighter thinger now)

also i checked the pulleys and theres a bit of black powder stuff on them, same with the belt. Would it beneficial/suggested to get a gates belt and pulley? i checked and the local oreillys has both.

pulley

belt

thanks all!