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Sorry for the length. Alright i am trying to figure out what would be the best thing for me to do what to get some opinions from yall. Right now I have a kicker 2500.1, DC level 5, and Jbl 75.2. also i have a stock gm alternator. Also i have a stock Acdelco battery up front and a second yellow top battery under hood just bought would like to keep but should i get rid of it. just throwing out ideas should i leave the stock alternator and get a second alternator and run the truck accessories and jbl of one alt. to front battery and kicker of the other atl. and battery, should i just upgrade the stock amp to a 200 or higher, should i get a new bigger front and back battery or just a bigger back battery or just add a third altogether and keep everything how it is. Right now if i turn my amp up about half way on my bass knob my system plays for a few seconds well and then drops to about 11/12 not good, i would like to be able to at least play a full song or let it bang hard for a few minutes. i know my sub can handle way more power then i am giving it right now and i really want it to play well. I have a box that is 6.5cub.(sub) port is tuned to 35hz whole box is about 10cub. dont remember port size exactly. Could yall help me out sorry if it seems i ran on and on just want to get it right. Hope yall will actually read all this. Please tell me what would work well, dont want to spend to much money on over kill. Thanks guys. :pardon: :pardon: :pardon:

Chevy Avalanche Z66-BigBlue Edition
Pioneer AVHX2700BS
Cheap dont know brand(Front)
2 Cadence 6.5"CVL midbass (Rear)
2 78 series Autocraft Gold Batteries
Stinger Battery Iso.
New Mechman 270 amp alternator
Lanzar OPTI4000D
Jbl 75.2
DC SoundLab Level 5 18
Lots of 1/0 and 4 gauge wires
Few 250/150 amp fuses
Oriental Blue House of Kolors Candy Paint
18" ION alloy 179/Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 275/70R18
z66Sig.png

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I think you need better batteries. Also, since you don't have your batteries isolated they should all be the same brand and size. Look at XS from Powermaster.

your stocker alt is 112amp. Upgrading MAY help, but most likely your stocker is going to produce more amps at idle than an aftermarket. this will affect vehicle performance. Look at specs at different RPM to be sure the aftermarket model will produce enough current below 1000rpm.

Principal

JTech Consulting - Leader in 12-Volt Training and Product PlanningIt's not about how much power you have, but how well you use it

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Thanks. I forgot to put that in there i have a stinger 200 amp battery isolator More Help :help:

Chevy Avalanche Z66-BigBlue Edition
Pioneer AVHX2700BS
Cheap dont know brand(Front)
2 Cadence 6.5"CVL midbass (Rear)
2 78 series Autocraft Gold Batteries
Stinger Battery Iso.
New Mechman 270 amp alternator
Lanzar OPTI4000D
Jbl 75.2
DC SoundLab Level 5 18
Lots of 1/0 and 4 gauge wires
Few 250/150 amp fuses
Oriental Blue House of Kolors Candy Paint
18" ION alloy 179/Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 275/70R18
z66Sig.png

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Sorry for the length. Alright i am trying to figure out what would be the best thing for me to do what to get some opinions from yall. Right now I have a kicker 2500.1, DC level 5, and Jbl 75.2. also i have a stock gm alternator. Also i have a stock Acdelco battery up front and a second yellow top battery under hood just bought would like to keep but should i get rid of it. just throwing out ideas should i leave the stock alternator and get a second alternator and run the truck accessories and jbl of one alt. to front battery and kicker of the other atl. and battery, should i just upgrade the stock amp to a 200 or higher, should i get a new bigger front and back battery or just a bigger back battery or just add a third altogether and keep everything how it is. Right now if i turn my amp up about half way on my bass knob my system plays for a few seconds well and then drops to about 11/12 not good, i would like to be able to at least play a full song or let it bang hard for a few minutes. i know my sub can handle way more power then i am giving it right now and i really want it to play well. I have a box that is 6.5cub.(sub) port is tuned to 35hz whole box is about 10cub. dont remember port size exactly. Could yall help me out sorry if it seems i ran on and on just want to get it right. Hope yall will actually read all this. Please tell me what would work well, dont want to spend to much money on over kill. Thanks guys. :pardon: :pardon: :pardon:

Ummm, your box is too big, if you only have 1 sub... What JBL are you talking about? You said you have a kicker 2500 amp, and a DC sub... Try making sure your gains are set correctly as well...

I think you need better batteries. Also, since you don't have your batteries isolated they should all be the same brand and size. Look at XS from Powermaster.

your stocker alt is 112amp. Upgrading MAY help, but most likely your stocker is going to produce more amps at idle than an aftermarket. this will affect vehicle performance. Look at specs at different RPM to be sure the aftermarket model will produce enough current below 1000rpm.

His stock alt is NOT going to produce more amps at idle than an aftermarket one... Sorry...

OP, look at doing the big 3 if you havent already done it, make sure your grounds are good and solid...

Thanks for help. My box is built to specification from DC for the Level5 18. Wiring done and works perfect its not that, i just need a little more help on how to keep/hold more volts/amp better. My system only hooked up for about 3 days now. Havent even put a full hour of play time on it yet or full power

Chevy Avalanche Z66-BigBlue Edition
Pioneer AVHX2700BS
Cheap dont know brand(Front)
2 Cadence 6.5"CVL midbass (Rear)
2 78 series Autocraft Gold Batteries
Stinger Battery Iso.
New Mechman 270 amp alternator
Lanzar OPTI4000D
Jbl 75.2
DC SoundLab Level 5 18
Lots of 1/0 and 4 gauge wires
Few 250/150 amp fuses
Oriental Blue House of Kolors Candy Paint
18" ION alloy 179/Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 275/70R18
z66Sig.png

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First off what year is your gm and second stock alt won't carry a 2500 watt amp at high voltage unless you had a bunch of batteries. And even then depending on the size of the bank you would still drop based on certain amount of time.

Edited by AMI CUSTOMS

TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH

TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain

3x Streetbeat World Record Holder

2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 
2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4
2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4
2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db
2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db
2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4
2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db
2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db
2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest

Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw

Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db

Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db

MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db

Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab

THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB

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you guys missed the fact that he has a battery isolator. Holden, i HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you remove that battery isolator if you want to keep using your stock alternator in the long run. severely discharging batteries when using a battery isolator and having it switch and makes your alternator charge that practically dead battery, puts a hell of a fucking strain on the alternator.

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I don't see the problem with an isolator given the fact he has two different types of batteries.

Edited by AMI CUSTOMS

TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH

TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain

3x Streetbeat World Record Holder

2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 
2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4
2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4
2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db
2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db
2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4
2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db
2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db
2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest

Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw

Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db

Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db

MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db

Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab

THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB

The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012

(4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log

Evo X build log

Facebook page The Black Nasty

16163044_large.gif

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I don't see the problem with an isolator given the fact he has two different types of batteries.

dropping the voltage really low on batteries that arent being charged by the alternator at the same time, then having the alternator all of a sudden charge a completely dead battery, isnt good for the alternator. i'd assume you would know this (not saying you dont). isolators are just trouble in my opinion. alternators dont like to charge dead batteries, especially over and over and over and over again. i would rather mix 2 different batteries together than run an isolator. thats just me.

edit: also im sure the amp doesnt like low voltage all the time.

Edited by Kranny
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If you can fit 2 alts i say do it. put the optima under the hood on your stock alt for your vehicle and your 4 channel and if you can afford it get a big H/O alt and 1-3 D3100's for the system this will allow all of your alternators current to go to the system instead of the vehicle taking power from it. or if your amp can take higher voltage try doing 2-3 D1400's charging to about 16.4 volts and that'll help alot too

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