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Sonic Electronix

Sub moving more air rather than making bass?


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It's possible it could be a phase issue.. but would they be moving oppositely? Like one going in, while the other is going out?

And well my subsonic is around 30 I believe, (Need to double check when I have some light), and

Frequency Response: 10Hz ~ 30Khz +/- 0.5dB

Variable high pass (50Hz-500Hz & 500Hz-5KHz)

Variable low pass (50Hz-500Hz & 500Hz-5KHz)

Don't know if that helps at all

EDIT: and

What's your amp settings. LPF should be 60-79hz

Subsonic about 30hz

Can you explain where you got the LPF number from? just wondering how it's calculated

The low pass filter allows frequencies LOWer than the setting (hence low-pass) to get through, while blocking everything above that frequency. Where you set it is mostly personal preference, in a complex install you would tune it to achieve flat frequency response, so the high end cuts off right about where your mids or mid-bass take over. As a basic way to set it, keep it right in the range he suggested. If you have mid-bass or large range mids, then go to about 60hz.

As for the sub sonic filter, the basics are that when using a ported enclosure, if your subs play a frequency that is below the box's tune, the box no longer cushions the sub, and it turns into a free-air situation, which will cause the sub to over extend and bottom out. Ideally, set your subsonic filter right at the tune of your box, if your eyeballing it, go just above the tune to be safe, so if you have a 32hz box, set the subsonic at 32hz or just above it.

As for the low output, first off, did you compensate for material thickness when making your measurements and cuts? if you used 3/4 inch MDF, but didn't compensate for that thickness when making the measurements, your box could be 1.5 inches too small in every dimension. Also, check to see if it's a phasing issue by disconnecting one sub woofer and see if the out put improves. I believe someone said that already... If it does, check your wiring. Also make sure your gain is set correctly, i'm sure you've done that already though.

**Edit did you seal the box with silicone? even if you wood glued the joints, it's always good to go over it again with silicone or a similar sealant, and painting the box with a poly urethane sealant, or latex paint can help seal the MDF itself to prevent microscopic leaks through pores in the material. That usually only matters at higher SPL...

Great post, helped alot. And yes I calculated for the wood and sub displacement. Got it right at 3cubes after displacement, and each sub calls for 1.5. (Tuned to 33). It's wrapped in wood glue, siliconed on the inside, and I'm starting to put primer all on the outside, it's sealed off pretty well.

I'm about to go out and check the phasing issue now that it's light out.

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Great post, helped alot. And yes I calculated for the wood and sub displacement. Got it right at 3cubes after displacement, and each sub calls for 1.5. (Tuned to 33). It's wrapped in wood glue, siliconed on the inside, and I'm starting to put primer all on the outside, it's sealed off pretty well.

I'm about to go out and check the phasing issue now that it's light out.

i dont know if this has been said or not, but the easiest way to test phase is to take a regular ol battery and attach it to the speaker wires. corresponding + to + and - to -. if they pop out, polarity is correct.

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Yep, both popped out when connected to the battery... I tried closing up my back seat, and they seem to be louder.. I put a plastic bag in the port, and it mainly is getting sucked in rather than floating there. Idk if that's normal. I know they're not bottoming out or anything, they just sound... funny. They are pretty loud, and are that panel under the back window that connects to the top of the back seats pretty well.. But that's about it, it's just barley vibrating my rear view mirror. I checked my amps, and they're set up perfect, besides a little bit lower gain to break them in..

Maybe they need to just be broken in? Idk how much the difference in sound is.. Or if I'm just use to having 2 15's..

I don't want this to be a vs. thread or anything but, 2 15" Kicker CVR's in a sealed box, about 1.2 cubes per sub, or 2 lvl 3 12"s in a ported box, 3 cubes.. Idk was expecting the 12"s to be a little louder?

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Set your iPod eq to off. Let your radio do the eq'ing.

x2 and ESPECIALLY don't use bass boost.

2009 Cobalt LT

Pioneer Headunit

2x Pioneer 6 1/2 (stock amp)

2x Pioneer 1" tweeters (stock amp)

2x Pioneer 6x9 (stock amp

4x Pioneer 6 1/2

Pioneer GM-6400F

Soundstream DTR 1700 R.I.P

2x Champion series PRO 12" subs

0 AWG Big 3, Stinger SP1700 battery

To come:

New or repaired DTR!!

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Ipod eq's aren't very good in general, they don't let you adjust as much as you'd like, and they aren't really all that helpful especially with a custom system...if you use your own eq, you can get all your settings correct to get as loud as possible without clipping or blowing anything up as well as optimize sq

masterbation is free, and even saves you money.sorry but someone had to say it

sorry, Jimmy...beat you to it (no pun intended)

LOLDON'T get a wife. Best advice I never got, and now it's too late <_<

My build: 12" DCON in a dorm room.

New/current build: 8" woofer, custom amplifier block, fiberglassed speaker pods

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