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They will work in any vehicle that has a battery.

Black 2008.5 Mazda 3s Touring 5 Speed Hatchback

Tinted tails/turn indicators, blacked out emblems, partially debadged, 20% tint all around,

Big 3 in Knu KLMX 1/0, LED footwells/interior lights

DECK: Kenwood DDX-512 double DIN touchscreen with backup camera

FRONT STAGE: Stock for now, yippy (Looking for something nice...)

FRONT STAGE AMP: Looking for something nice...

SUB: 15 inch DC level 4 with level 5 coil upgrade, red dustcap

SUB AMP: Audiopipe AP15001D at 1 ohm

WIRING: All Knukoncepts Kolossus/KCA wire

LEGAL TERMLAB SCORE: 135.8db at 42hz(pathetic, I know. I need a battery in the back,

dropping to 11.9v isnt cutting it.....)

I haz teh Term-Lab. PM me if you are close and want to get metered.

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They will work in any vehicle that has a battery.

ok and are they somewhat easy to wire?

Yep, there are only 3- ground, remote turn on, and constant 12v

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

My Official Feedback Thread

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You get a ground, constant, and accesory. Pretty straight forward. On that car it would prolly be easier to run a constant from the battery and tag ignition in the steering column

Team NWSPL

baaudio Build Log

2001 GMC Sierra walkthrough

4 Mechman Elite 370s, 10 AGM batteries, 3 Crossfire XS v2 18s, Crossfire 8k

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the stinger ones need to be adjusted. it'll have a knob for doing that. you will just need a DMM to get your accurate reading 1st.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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