Box Advice?

[RockeyDA]

the environment you put the box in (vehicle ?) is just as important as the box itself. even the right size box wont work in some trunks or back seats. home depot will cut sheets of wood for you have your box drawn out with a cut sheet

im doubting that, because i wont be buying the wood. i dumpster dive for wood, and this box will never go in my dads car, if i did what i had to do to make it fit he would throw a fit. this box is soly for in the house. and honestly i should not have a woofer like this i cant afford it. but i should have something nice in life. for real buying the wood glue for my box was an issue, but i was on christmas break so did not get an entire paycheck. also getting some one to drive me to the other end of town would be difficult, car failed inspection so no way i could get my dad to do it.

[RockeyDA]

I used one from dbdynamixaudio.com and it gives cut sheets and diagrams. Its free just plug in your numbers. They have calculators for all different kind of boxes. I have a pair of Soundcubed HDS315 subs and built a pair of slot ported boxes for them. See my box build "HDS315 slot port box build". Maybe you can get to the port from the woofer hole? Or make some kind of extension on the outside of the box just for something to try. I know with my woofers the way it worked out, with a high Q and low VAS, the bigger box volume was more peaky in response than a smaller box. Your results might be different. Generally the bigger the box, the shorter the port needs to be for a given frequency. Maybe you could build an "addition" onto your box to get more room? As long as it were sealed, it could be any shape at all. This way you could find out what works and when you arrive at your ideal volume, then build it right. Kind of like an R&D project. Figuring it all out. This is the fun part.

not for me, i had to dumpster dive for 2 weeks to get that much wood. if i had an endless supply of wood and something to cut it at my house it would be different.

[RockeyDA]

Ported boxes have a greater peak output around tuning the larger they are due to being more efficient, but don't have as much output in other frequencies. Smaller boxes are less efficient, and will give a flatter response starting at tuning and ascending.

Yes, the amount of space the port and woofer take up are displacements. Gross volume is a cube with nothing in it. Net volume is volume after displacements. You want net volume to meet manufacturers specs (if those are the specs you're shooting for).

There are box calculators, which will do the math of port tuning, volume (gross and net), and give you cut sheets. All you do is plug in your dimensions, what you want it tuned to, whether you're doing a slot port or aero port (slot in your case), etc...

You want low loud power, so how low? What music are you listening to? I'm currently tuned to 28hz and have played songs down to 23hz without issue, not as loud, but no problems with the sub unloading at least. As I said, the larger the enclosure, the more efficient (louder) is it around tuning but much less efficient at other frequencies, and the smaller enclosure is less efficient, but gives you a wider frequency response with similar output.

i have other woofers in my setup to fill in the gaps (mainly 15" alpine type r) and i wish to hit the low big Kurt - my sub hard, dont hit it at all atm, and i listen to alot of chopped and screwed music and rap from the dirty south so i miss alot of the low lows. and one of my friends tells me the FS is the freq the sub hits hardest at? is this ture? because i really want it to be. but yeah, i can fill in gaps with other subs. and i wanna go as low as i can without significant sacrifice of power.(unless its like 15hz or somthing were no songs have bass)

oh and thank you all for helping me, i appreciate it. every mistake you help me avoid makes a big difference.

[RockeyDA]

not impotent considering i dont own a car and dont even know how to drive, i just occasionally throw some subs in my dads car. i dont see how the amp maters but its a Plye P3001AT and its just to hold me over till i can get a sundown amp and a couple 14.4v 75 amp powersupplys. (im barley makin rent here so temporary is like 6-8 months.) oh and the car amp that will almost never be used is some pioneer amp rated for 380wrms over 2 2ohm channels i got for 7$

Don't waste your money on a car audio amp and DC power supplies if you are going to use the sub indoors. Just buy an amp meant to plug into the wall directly.

every in home amp i ran into was over priced, low power, and high ohm rating. and one of my friends tried what i was doing and it came out great. soundqubed 600w 8" sundown sae600d on 100amp 14.4v psu, pounded so hard and clean(accept for the port noise.) plus if i ever get enough money to afford a car i could use the amp there to.

[Triticum Agricolam]

i have other woofers in my setup to fill in the gaps (mainly 15" alpine type r) and i wish to hit the low big Kurt - my sub hard, dont hit it at all atm, and i listen to alot of chopped and screwed music and rap from the dirty south so i miss alot of the low lows. and one of my friends tells me the FS is the freq the sub hits hardest at? is this ture? because i really want it to be. but yeah, i can fill in gaps with other subs. and i wanna go as low as i can without significant sacrifice of power.(unless its like 15hz or somthing were no songs have bass)

oh and thank you all for helping me, i appreciate it. every mistake you help me avoid makes a big difference.

The Fs isn't the frequency the sub hits hardest at, its just the frequency the cone vibrates at in free-air. Once you put a sub in a box, the resonant frequency goes up. With ported boxes the frequency the box is tuned to (Fb) is where you are most likely going to get the loudest.

every in home amp i ran into was over priced, low power, and high ohm rating. and one of my friends tried what i was doing and it came out great. soundqubed 600w 8" sundown sae600d on 100amp 14.4v psu, pounded so hard and clean(accept for the port noise.) plus if i ever get enough money to afford a car i could use the amp there to.

Yeah, the problem was you were looking at home amps, PA amps are going to get you what you want. For less than that SAE600d costs you can get this:

https://www.parts-express.com/behringer-nu1000dsp-inuke-1000-watt-power-amplifier-with-dsp--248-6702

That amp will put out over 600 watts at 4 ohms, and has very powerful DSP functionality that will allow you to do all kinds of handy stuff. And it plugs right into the wall. If that's not enough power, for $70 more you can get this:

https://www.parts-express.com/behringer-nu3000dsp-inuke-3000-watt-power-amplifier-with-dsp--248-6706

That one puts out over 2200 watts at 4 ohms. If you sub has 2-ohm coils, you can wire to 4-ohms and you are set.

[RockeyDA]

one of my friends has a bass amp by them and he is freaking out saying how trashy it was, and how poorly it was maid with corners cut left and right. and i was thinking, 1500w sundown amp for 1300w sundown sub. every amp i ever got was crap because i cheeped out so im not doing it this time, i really dont want another under rated amp.

[reedal]

Well since I seem to gather that you're mostly intending to use this in home and not in a vehicle, I don't think I will be of much use when it comes to tuning frequency and enclosure size, as I believe home audio setups are tuned/set up differently due to the room it is in is always much larger than a vehicle cabin with different acoustic properties. Best of luck to you, Triticum will be of great help to you, I'd recommend listening to his advice

[Triticum Agricolam]

one of my friends has a bass amp by them and he is freaking out saying how trashy it was, and how poorly it was maid with corners cut left and right. and i was thinking, 1500w sundown amp for 1300w sundown sub. every amp i ever got was crap because i cheeped out so im not doing it this time, i really dont want another under rated amp.

I've got one of those two amps I recommended and its been nothing but great for me. They certainly aren't top-of-the-line, but they do their job. They are very popular within the DIY home audio community for that reason. I wouldn't use one for mains, but for subwoofer duty they are hard to beat for the price. If you want something more high-end Crown makes some very nice amps, this one would work well and puts out 1500 watts at 4 ohms:

https://www.parts-express.com/crown-xls-1502-drivecore-2-power-amplifier-2-x-525w-at-4-ohms--245-508

Running a car audio amp off a DC power supply in your house is a hack-job at best, there are good reasons why people who can afford to do things right don't do it that way. I really can't recommend against doing that strongly enough. Its your money though, do what you think is best.

[RockeyDA]

one of my friends has a bass amp by them and he is freaking out saying how trashy it was, and how poorly it was maid with corners cut left and right. and i was thinking, 1500w sundown amp for 1300w sundown sub. every amp i ever got was crap because i cheeped out so im not doing it this time, i really dont want another under rated amp.

I've got one of those two amps I recommended and its been nothing but great for me. They certainly aren't top-of-the-line, but they do their job. They are very popular within the DIY home audio community for that reason. I wouldn't use one for mains, but for subwoofer duty they are hard to beat for the price. If you want something more high-end Crown makes some very nice amps, this one would work well and puts out 1500 watts at 4 ohms:

https://www.parts-express.com/crown-xls-1502-drivecore-2-power-amplifier-2-x-525w-at-4-ohms--245-508

Running a car audio amp off a DC power supply in your house is a hack-job at best, there are good reasons why people who can afford to do things right don't do it that way. I really can't recommend against doing that strongly enough. Its your money though, do what you think is best.

yeah, i just really want the flexibility of being able to toss my amp in my dads car on the occasion i can get some one to drive me some were. my box i want to replace could just go in car and i drop sub and amp in when needed, what i do with my alpine but the amp is always in the car because it sucks as bad as my pyle.

for fun pics of that setup.

besides the alpine this was a under 20$ setup, almost everything was from scrap. like my amp power wires were left over 220 line i found in my neighbors shed when they were moving out. one amp got for free, front amp was most expensive thing, 7$ at good will, my front and rare speaker lines are dubbed up cat 5, 2 positives and 2 negatives per speaker because of thin cable. and my RCA splitter i made from a old VCR. all other cables came from dumpsters

and before the alpine it was 2 10" vonsonik subs that were 5$ at yard sale, but i got pissed and smashed them.

at the time i was really proud of this because i achieved so much with so little, and the car already had some aftermarket ken woods in the doors so i was set.

not relivent to this to much other than the part about my box going were that alpine is and sub will face up and port firing at trunk. also im am kinda upset about how under rated my alpine is, 750wrms, this pioneer amp rated for 380wrms on 2 channel 2 ohm and my woofer stinkin after 45min and center od dust cap was hot to the touch. i actually ran 2 12v fans on 6v to blow heat off the coil. because it over heated alot on me with weak amps.

[Triticum Agricolam]

So two things to think about, pointing subs up in a recipe for trunk rattle, probably something you want to avoid.

Secondly, I doubt the problem with your Alpines is that they are underrated, the reason they were getting hit is you were probably sending them a clipped signal. It doesn't take a very big amp to cooks sub if it's clipping.