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Found 101 results

  1. browser keeps crashing so this will be done in sections. Let me start with saying this build was done in the sub 20 temperatures with occasional snow showers. I only had 3 days to complete build due to long work hours so it was kinda rushed! I came here looking for ideas on a new build to upgrade from my original 4 kicker comp cvr's and this is the results! 160 Ft" of 2/0 EB-Flex welding cable 2 XS D3100's Sky High fuse blocks Sky High 200 amp fuses Sky High 1/0 oversided copper lugs Sky High shrink tube 1 set of aluminum battery blocks
  2. I have 2 12inch DB drive wdx 2k subs that I want to make a box for now the specs say per sub 2.0 cu ft for sealed and 2.7 cu ft for ported. Now if I build it ported does that mean each sub needs 2.7 cu ft or can the whole box be 2.7 cu ft????
  3. I want to build a ported box for a polaris rzr that ports through a little access panel between the seats and hide the box OUTSIDE of the cabin behind the cabin in between the engine and cabin. Plenty of space and I can make it weather proof and all that. Question is can I make a 1:1 bandpass type box or does it need to be a 2:1 to sound right? I need to keep the voicecoil out of the dust/elements so I can make the sub last. So if i seal the sub and fire it into another chamber thats ported into the cab it would be ideal for my needs. Sub is a sundown sa 6.5 on 300 watts so i really want to get the most bass i can ideally. Thanks far any input fellas.
  4. I need help guys! Is there anyway possible someone could draw me up something on sketchup or something similar for two skar ma-8, they are recommended 1 cuft per sub tuned to 35hz, I have no real experience designing boxes and all help would be greatly appreciated
  5. I am building an enclosure for my Fi BL 15 and I wanted to have someone else help me make sure my design is going to turn out the way I want it to. I have only built sealed boxes before, so I want to make sure my first attempt at ported goes as well as possible. This is going in the trunk of an 03 Altima, I was planning on putting the speaker and port facing the rear of the car and keeping the center armrest in the backseats down. I have included a picture of my idea and the specs. I am very excited about this peoject, so please let me know what you think so I can get this build underway.
  6. So i need some advice on deciding a new setup for my 2010 gmc sierra crew cab. As of now, i have a bad setup with 2 rf p1 12's under the backseat sealed. I wanted to do a ported box like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMqdmKnwjL0 however, i talked to a local audio store owner and he said i could never get a good sounding ported box under my seats, any thoughts? He said i should just do 2 JL 10 inch w1's sealed because thats the best setup he's heard in a truck like mine.
  7. Hi guy's , just bought a Brand new JVC DRVN 12inch (Black cone) , going to run at 4ohm as is a single voice coil , off a 250 rms jvc amp . Please help me design a box !!! Medium size , Good for music but also hitting low for some shake (Y) maybe 34hz or 36 what you reckon ?? Want a basic rectangular port Please can someone advise me on box dimensions . Either inches or mm for each piece , send me a link to a good box , and help me figure a good HZ tune . Thanks guys Ollie(16) from New Zealand Subwoofer - http://www.jvc.co.nz/CS-G1200.html Subwoofer spec's - http://www.jvc.co.nz/assets/pdf-manual/CS-GD1200.pdf
  8. Hello all, first post here on the forum. Needing a little help with a design for a ported enclosure. This will be my first ported enclosure build. Last week, i acquired two Alpine Type R 12s (SWR-1223D) dual 2 ohm voice coil..already in an Audio Enhancers brand pre-fab box from a kid for only $70 so it was a great deal! I have an Alpine MRX-M110 amp. First of all the box doesn't have enough airspace, it only has .92 cubic feet per chamber before displacement. Secondly, it is tuned to a whopping 43hertz! I got this info from their website. I mainly listen to rap, r&b, hiphop, alternative rock and a little pop. The subs are not performing very well on the low notes in the music im listening to so its got to go asap! I have a 95 blazer 4x4 4 door. I have room for 37.5" wide, 18' tall and 18" deep. I would like the new enclosure to have alot more airspace with a common chamber and common port, with a much lower tuning! Any and all help will be appreciated! Opinions and designs please?
  9. Hey guys Ill be honest I dont know a whole lot about sub enclosures i know nothing actually other than I know the one sub thats running right now is being suffocated the sealed box is way to small. Ive had the second sub for almost a year and have never had the funds to buy an amp to power them both(its been killing me having two and only having one hooked up). but the time has come #taxreturn boo yah lol. I would love to make a ported box for my two 15" but know thats a tall order for a neon trunk the only way it would work and this may be a stupid question, is if you can have the subs on one end( the end that would be facing the trunk) and have the ports facing the cab on the opposite end? i have no idea how to build it tuned for the subs or how to space the ports im clueless. if thats not possible I have no problem settling for a sealed enclosure. if sealed is the case i would need help build the enclosure to the air space the subs need if thats the right term? having it built in store isnt an option they wouldnt build it in the trunk which is necessary because its so large. they want to have it built somewhere else and shipped here which is not an option(outrageous* audio portland OR) plus the cost is outrageous*
  10. Hello all, I have a pretty funky setup at the moment, you might be scratching your head when you see some of the pictures, but that's beside the point. I was wondering if my port placement will cause the sub to unload at higher volumes? Also, how will I know if it does unload, any special sound I should listen for? I have been playing it (powered from a psu) and it seems to sound fine... Any input would be great, thanks.
  11. hey, im running a fairly basic low powered setup: audioline azx800m mono(800 peak, 400rms @ 2ohms) 2 x kenwood kfcw3013(400rms @ 4ohms) in paralell here is the datasheet for the subs: http://images.kenwood.eu/files/prod/2093/5/KFC-W3013_2513.pdf anyway my question is, should i continue to run a ported box.. which is just about exploding from the pressure and i have had to reinforce or to port it, however i have looked into it and the resonant frequency is 25hz & the Qes=.91 making for an ebp of around 27 meaning that it is recommended that i remain sealed, however pioneer gives specifications for both ported and sealed boxes. By the way im more of a loud bass guy than a quality guy, anyway id appreciate to hear your input guys!
  12. Hey SMD members, I finished my 2011 STI build last year and it has worrked pretty well since then, but I knew down the line I would want to switch to ported encosure and unleash the true power of my W10GTI sub. Build info here; http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/173212-bboytaktixs-2011-subaru-sti-modest-sq-build/ This will be my first ported box build. Now, Here is where I need some help/suggestions/opinions. Currently I am running the W10GTI in a 1.0 cubic foot box (minus driver displacement). I would like to keep the footprint of the box relatively similar, since I am really enjoying being able to put the seat down and fitting things like skis and my snowboard beside the sub all the way through. If anything I would want to make the box come more forward. JBL has a few recommendations for box size and parameters; first one is a 1.75 ft^3 box; http://www.jbl.com/resources/Brands/jbl/Products/ProductRelatedDocuments/en-US/BoxesandParameters/W10GTi_rev_f.pdf Second is a SPL competition style box between 2.25 to 3 ft^3; http://www.jbl.com/resources/Brands/jbl/Products/ProductRelatedDocuments/en-US/BoxesandParameters/W10spl_f.pdf but considering I don't compete, and I don't want to sacrifice that much trunk space, option 1 would be more ideal to me. I have also seen the `lab slapbox` which is designed for the W10GTI and is 1.4 ft^3. So my first question is which size would be ideal and enough for this sub? And does anyone have experience with the W10GTI in ported enclosures, and what are you running? Second question is ports. Do I make things simple and go with aero ports? Or should I do a classic but well-designed and executed slot port? benefits of each? I will take my time with this box to make it perfect and get the most sound out of the powerful little sub. Third question would be tuning. I have read that most prefer to tune this sub around the 28Hz region to get the best response and kick out of it. Suggestions are welcome. I am familiar with the box tuning calculator, but have not used it in a while. Last question would be general recommendations or things to ensure I do during my box build to make sure I get the most sound out of it. I already know to make sure the corners are all sealed well with sealant or another good product. Also I used terminal cups on my last box (made sure to seal it well), better solutions for this box? I see some going with bolts straight through, seems simple enough. thanks in advance for opinions, thoughts, suggestions and experience.
  13. I have been surfing forums and youtube for Hours but the simplest of questions i have yet to find an answer to. I am a noob. I am trying to learn all I can about car audio. I have built a few sealed enclosures even took at shot at a fiberglass enclosure. But I would like to try a ported enclosure. Could anyone give some advice as far as how to determine the best type of port because this is what confuses me I can punch in numbers to get a box but I would rather retain the knowledge to understand how to design one. It also doesn't help that the thickest MDF sold in Japan is 1 cm(.39") Any help would be highly appreciated.
  14. Need some help, I can't seem to get winisd to cooperate, joe x helped me last time and I love the box, I can do small hair tricks off of 2-10" ab xfl @2200 rms in a mustang so here is what I have to work with in my daily driver 97 2 dr s-10 blazer 2-15 orion xtr154d dvc wired to 2ohm sub specs are fs:24.5 vas:4.377 ft3 qms:12.044 qes:0.51 qts:0.495 re:7.20 z:4 xmass:12.075 rms:750 speaker diplacment:0.145 ft3 mounting depth:8.54 in each sub has it own identical amp at around 600rms @ 2ohm should the box be divided because of this? ther're going into the back of a 2dr blazer the room I have is 37" wide 22" deep 19" tall subs up / port back trying to tune somewhat low, trying to make the subs breath also I'm not keeping these subs for too long, maybe through summer if they last, will be upgrading at some point ANY help would be great, I can cut and build, just not the best with the math, Thank you
  15. After looking around and finding lots of great information I would like to ask a question. I have 2 18 inch OA v1s (gottem for next to nothing!) which I would like to make a box for. My max dimensions are H17 x W39 x L36. which would be about 10.8 Cu. Ft. I'm having a little trouble figuring out the slot port dimensions to be in the 28-30 Hz range for ported. Even with the slot port the box would be at least 10 Cu. Ft. (I hope!) which is acceptable according to the OA website the ported volume should be about 4.5 to 6 Cu. Ft. each. I'm currently using Torres Box Calculator. I'm also wanting Sub up/Port up so I can build it as big as I can and that's where I get confused. According to the OA site one 18 needs from 28.3 in^2 to 50.24^2 of port area. If I stay between those two numbers I should be fine? I would double the area of course since there are two subs (56.6 to 100.48). Is there enough room to port them properly? Or should I just seal it? I will only be putting recommended wattage to them ...600 if that matters any. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Here are the specs if anyone is interested in lending a hand. Obsidian 18" v2 D2 Re: 3.97 Ohm Fs: 25 Hz Qms: 4.48 Qes: 0.840 Qts: 0.707 Vas: 156 Le: 3.72 mH BL: 19.12 SPL: 86.88 dB Sd: 1217.34 cm^2 Mms: 479 g Xmax: 20mm Peak-to-peak: 62mm (2.45") Power Handling: 600 watts RMS Recommended enclosure info: Sealed ~ 3.5 to 5 ft^3 Ported ~ 4.5 to 6 ft^3 @ 28 to 32 Hz Cutout: 16.7" OD: 18.5" Mounting depth: 9.5" Mounting flange to top of surround: 1.5" Displacement: 0.25 ft^3 EDIT: I believe I'm going sealed...The previous owner had them in a ported box ...I believe 11 cubes with a cheaper Planet Audio amp and they sounded Amazing! There is no way I'm getting it 11 cubes and ported ....hell I was messing around with the Torres box calc. and can barely get 9 cu ft with port displacement...so sealed it is for now unless someone has any other options? I would love to try ported first...never had a ported sub..... help a mofo out!!!! EDIT EDIT: Been doing more measuring and it looks like I will be able to build a ported box at about 11- 12 cu. ft. Not sure on the exact dimensions of the box but it will be bigger on top. Not a slanted box but ...sort of a box in top of a box if that made any sense....anyways buying mdf tomorrow. Still trying to figure out the Port Thanks!
  16. Hi Guys, I just joined the forum. I kept reading and trying to educate myself last two weeks but there is nothing similar to my case. I recently bought a Corvette C6 Convertible and I want to install my single RockFord P3D4-12 (already have it) and I want to built a custom ported enclosure. This is where it gets tricky. The requirement for ported enclosure for my sub is 1.8 cu. ft. which is basically taking almost all the space in the trunk (not a problem for me). My question is what kind of design should I choose for maximum (being tuned to 32hz) output? I have three options in my mind, First; Sub up, port back. In this case, I can full fill 1.8 cu. ft. easily but the problem is sub facing up, there is almost no air room between sub and the trunk. Plus it can rattle a lot (this can be fixed maybe) Second; Sub and port facing back with an angle or it wont fit (height is 12.5"). Plus side is, I can use the back wall but the distance will be short. Negative side is it will be hard to reach 1.8 cu. ft. Third and last; Port and Sub facing to the driver with an angle (it has to be with angle or wont fit). This is my least favorite but then again it is a 2 seater car. I think I might be the only one with this case. Help is much appreciated, Please help, I am going crazy. Thank you guys.
  17. Ok, I have super limited space in my RX7, I have probably about 2 1/2 to 3 cu ft of useable space in the hatch of my 1994 Mazda RX7. Right now I have 2 - Kicker L7 Truck Boxes in it (model 08TS10L72), and they barely fit. They aren't not loud, but I'm looking for as loud as I can fit in there. I used to have 4 - 12's in my Ford Probe, and that was LOUD, I just don't have the same space available in here to fit much. If you had 2 - 3 cu ft of space to use... what would you choose?
  18. Hey guys, Im looking for your opinions on my next build. I plan on doing either two 12s at around 1500 rms with subs and port firing into the cabin sealed off from the trunk or a 4th order (3:1)at around 500 rms with a single 12 and port firing into the cabin. -Ported just over 3 ft3 around 35 htz -4th order around 5 ft3 around 50 htz Car- 2010 Civic Coupe Looking for something that really hits the lows and gets loud. Thanks, look forward to seeing some of your ideas.
  19. How do I fit this thing in my truck without taking up half the back seat lol.. Every custom box made for this model only fits 10s and 12s. Ideas??
  20. For my 03 350z I would like to build a box for an SA 8v2 that can be sealed or ported. I have seen a couple people try this and now I would like to try it. I want to built the box so that I could just slide out the port when I really want the lows and slide it in for tight bass. Wondering if anyone has box designs I could work from?
  21. basically as the title says. i was planning on a .75 ft^3 box for a single 8, but have been reconsidering that option since most people have been saying that the box has to be huge because of the port. I wanted the ported vs the sealed cause i didn't want to lose out on the low stuff 30 Hz and below.
  22. hey guys, i was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on designing a ported box. i recently picked up two 10 inch rockford P3s. they are the second model that was 400 watts rms with 800 peak. this is just a fun little project for me so don't hate on the subs too much. but yea, any help with designing a ported box for them would be awesome. i drive a mazda 626 so standard trunk space i suppose. thanks!
  23. As a little side project, I had an old Martin Logan 10" lying around and decided to create an enclosure for it and give it as a gift to a teacher of mine. He's a big fan of the cowboys so I figured i'd incorporate that somewhere, I hardly documented the building process but the finished product I am extremely proud of, and does it bump! Specs: Vb: 1.088 Ft^3 Fb: 38.8 Hz F3: 29 Hz RMS: 300 Watts
  24. im building an SQL set up with a single 12 for my daily. im stuck between 2 subs. dayton Ultimax http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512 OR Alpine type S or R 12" R: http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-12d4/ S: http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/sws-12d2/ i will only be running 500rms for the sub as i plan to get the alpine PDX-V9 amp http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-v9/ ill be running Alpine SPR-60C in all 4 doors http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spr-60c/ ive owned and heard the new type r's before and they are great in a good box but when entering some info into winisd pro it shows the dayton will have a much smoother gain and much better low end compared to the alpine. but reqires a 3.5ft^3 box to do so... Dayton is orange 3.5ft^3 dual 3" aeros 15.5" long each tuned at 24.9Hz Alpine Type R is Yellow 2.0ft^3 dual 3" aeros 16.5" long each tuned at 32Hz
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