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Found 118 results

  1. Hey guys, Building a box for 2 Treo RSX 10's for my wife's Jetta. Manufacturer's specs for 1 sub are 1.3ft^3 net volume with 12"^2 of port area at 14"long. Thus, I am thinking of building 2.6ft^3 net with 24"^2 port area 14" long. Anyone have any experience with these subs/their tuning and can tell me if other specs might sound better or if I am on the right track? Any direction will be much appreciated. Thanks!!!
  2. Hi, i'm designing a box for my zv5 15", i've do a project with google sketchup but i don't know if my design is good or not(i leave the google sketch project). I've do my project Seeing this video: box parameters: net cu.ft= 4,25cu.ft tuning freq=32hz W(28,74") - H(21,5") - D(20,75")=OUTER DIMENSIONS driver displacement= 0.25 cu.ft port displacement= 1,57 cu.ft port dimension = W(3,4") - H(20") - LENGTH(33.6")(carstereo.com) my question is: IS GOOD THIS TUTORIAL?IN WINISD THE PROJECTS CHANGES (the port length is different on winisd) For this reason I am doubtful on my design. Can you eventually crete your own design if my box is not good? PS 1x sundown zv5 15.skp
  3. Right now I have a T3 components in the doors, T1652s in the rear (T400-4 amp) and 2 P212s (R5001xd 619 @ 1 ohm birthsheet). Ive been looking all over for an upgrade, first I thought maybe T015s and a T1500 amp. That set up would've costed me 3500 and it would've just been a big ass box in my sedan's trunk, likely not what the subwoofers really want or need. I then bought some 12s HDC3s and I sold them to someone else after being convinced the same thing. I started looking into DD and the size of their boxes are crazy big (and I do not want one subwoofer). So now I'm looking at having four P3D410s in a "show build" powered by 2 prime 1200s. With that said, I'd have more than double the cone area and more than double the power (does this mean I'll increase by 6 decibels?) What do you think of the build in question? Will I be impressed? Should I get a box for this or should I let them just make this "show build"? Meaning they'd want me to appear at shows to show off their work. I'll answer all questions! Links to videos of your own 10s would be acceptable as well.
  4. Custom ported sub box help

    I've only built sealed boxes before this, and have no idea how to plan to build a slot ported box for my sub. Would it be better for me to purchase a full box from somewhere online custom built to my dimensions? I feel confident in my ability to build a box but have no idea how to design and plan it. Is there a certain website or place I can go to and purchase some plans? Or can someone guide me through building a slot ported box?
  5. Hi, I have ordered 2 sundown e-10's an amp, wiring kit, and everything else I'll need. It should arrive by thursday or friday. This is my first system, but I realized that I'm going to need a custom enclosure because just about none of the dual pre-fab 10 enclosures fit in the space I want. So i've gotten the measurements figured out, and how much volume I'll need, including displacement of speakers and my center brace. I'm going to be building the box tomorrow it's dimensions are 22.5 x 14 x 18 using 3/4" mdf. now that ends up being 2.06776 cubic feet of volume after a double thick (1.5 inches) center wall brace completely sealing each side from the other, and the speaker displacement is all figured in. so this is where i run into trouble i need to have 16"^2 port area, and have each side ported and tuned to 32hz and according to the volume calculator for rectangular enclosures and the slot port calculator on the12volt.com for a port that is 2inches by 8inches in a box w/ 2.06776 cubic feet of space i need a 17 inch port length, and if that's the case i can't put the port on the front because the subs will be in the way due to the width of the box being as narrow as it is, so i have to put them on either the back or the sides, but i don't have 17 inches of length across the back for each side. so is the 16"^2 of port area super necessary or should i try to make the box a little deeper, and then add some filling material (to compensate for the extra volume) and port it out of the back? i don't know that i can port it out of the back as is because again the box being as narrow as it is, and not being so deep, 18 inches depth and a 17 inch long port that is 2 inches wide wouldn't fit because the sub would be in the way. now maybe there is a super simple solution as far as design goes that i don't know about or havent figured out. but i'd greatly appreciate somebody's insight with some experience maybe i need to think up a different design for the box, or maybe not go with a slot port, i just really would like to get this figured out tonight so i can build my box tomorrow. any help or comments will be greatly appreciated. My maximum dimensions are 22.5"W x 15"H x 24" Depth Thanks for taking the time to read and respond!
  6. I have a boot size of 180 liters and my subwoofer is 12 inches(280 [email protected] OHMS), Please help me with the measurement of ported enclosure box, the current box has broken so please help with the measurement. Im ok to remove the extra speakers( see 2nd pic) to increase the size of the box. Please see the pics that i have attached
  7. I recently got a hold of an old L5 and was wondering if anyone had any experience with building a box for them because in the manual it gives a fairly wide range for enclosure sizes, so if anyone has any idea what a good size box would be to start with that would be great. Also haven't decided if i wanna go with a sealed or ported box yet so might build one of each and try them out. Just let me know what has worked for you or what u have heard works and ill go from there, and will someone send me the link for the torres box calculator i got a new computer and haven't downloaded it yet. Thanks for the help
  8. I have a wedge style box for my two 10" RF p2d4 subs , each compartment is sealed off in the box and each one is 1.4 cubic feet (2.80 cubic feet total) The optimum frequentcy for it is 40hz and the manufacturer says it need a 4x14 port to achieve that and I was wondering if I could use 2smaller ports to achieve the same thing and have them style pound good and sound great. The box dimensions of you guys need them are 55 1/4 wide total (both compartments , but its sealed on the inside in the middle) 12 1/2" front height, 7" rear height and has a 19" depth. This box was made for my 04 silverado but for L5's or L7's so I modified the front to hold my round subs , I found it online and since the airspace was exact for my subs I bought it. If anyone at all could please help me I'd appreciate it.Thanks
  9. Hey everyone. I'm new to the forums. I have experience with car audio for about 20 years as a hobby. Been lurking mostly on here but I want to get some ideas in place for a new build for my truck. I currently have a 10" kicker solo classic sealed in an underseat custom enclosure with about .67 cu ft before displacement. I'm running it off a kicker zx400.1 at 2 ohms. I listen mainly to rock/classic rock/metal 95% of the time. Rap and R/B is the other 5%. So quickness and punch is very important to me for my listening preference. My goal is to get the low punch that you get when you go to a concert and listen to those 18"s hit you in the gut. Super deep is not that necessary, but deeper and punchier than what I currently get, which sucks ass. What I'm planning on doing is to have my friend help me build a custom fiberglass enclosure and getting a different sub. I've narrowed it down to the RE Audio SCX10 or the Sundown e10 v3 d4. I've ran some comparisons on WINISD and the results are a little different, but pretty close with the parameters I'm using. The Re has a better TFM while the Sundown is a little better on SPL from about 57 hz up. I have no idea what the TFM is, but hopefully one of you can help out on that. So that would make my decision a little easier on which sub to get. Now with the fiberglass enclosure, I know making it ported is going to be near to impossible. If it is possible, I'd like to hear ideas on how to do it. So my other option would be to get a 12" earthquake SLAPS PR. Now for a few questions about all this. (Sorry for the story, but want to give as much info as possible) Ported, PR, or sealed? Based on the WINISD I came up with, which would be better for my musical preference? Understanding the terms in WINISD would be a pleasure. A little help? My budget is going to be around $300-$350 for materials. I don't want to upgrade the amp yet. It's working fine. I'm looking more for sound quality than boom. (Rock music?? ) I also want to keep the enclosure under the seat. I have a big family and space is a premium. Thanks for any help.
  10. been awhile since i posted last, so here goes.. system run down 99 explorer sport 4.0 4x4 1 0ga power run to the back big 3 done in 0ga 1000ca battery up front optima yellow top in back grounds are to chassis with 0ga wire 2- brz1700.1 amps running 1 ohm per amp 2- soundqubed hds315 dual 2ohm 8cf box with a small octoport ( free box to start out with ) pionner avh280bt head unit pac lc-1 bass knob we did a 147.1db and clamped at 711rms per amp at 43hz. we did that on stock 95amp alt and since then installed a H/O 250amp. by ear seems a little louder, clamped it and is at 768rms at 14.5v on rear battery so gained a little.. have skyhigh 2/0 coming to replace the 0ga power run, hoping to get more voltage to the rear and up the rms again, will see come next weekend.. our delema is horrible box rise i was told so we are not getting close to rated from our amps. did a clamp test at .5ohm and got 646rms. have the plans and cut sheet for a spec box for these subs but am wondering a box change/ more port area could help the box rise and gain us rms? we are just starting out on the audio scene.. we have plans on building a 4th order b pillar wall and am curious on something. we could do a 4 hds315 4th order with our current amps. friend said it should be louder because of more cone area, or do a 2 hds315 4th order with a cab1600.1 or ta1.3000d amp at .5ohm.. curious on thoughts as we are doing our 2nd comp oct 1st.. and we are aiming for a 150. so spec ported box on more power, 4th with 2 subs on more power, or 4 15s in a 4th with our current amps and see how it goes..
  11. Hello guys. After many searches i have finnaly designed a box for my Alpine type r , and i want your opininon about it because i dont want to build a useless box! Thanks. Here are some pics. http://imgur.com/4uzdYiJ Box Design in google sketchup http://imgur.com/TZmtnrg Torres results
  12. So I'm going to be getting a 12 installed soon and I would like to reduce rattle as much as possible. I was wondering if its possible to do this in some sort of simple manner? It's not a huge deal but if it's possible I'd like to get it done.
  13. Edit: decided to just go ported. Can anyone recommend the best ported box with these as external box dimensions, 20 D X 30 H X 38 W. just want the loudest possible in a 32-36 hz area. want to keep the 20x38 the same for outside specs if its just TOO big then lower the height as needed. This is from base to roof, so if it goes down at least i can see a little out the rear view lmao. two Alpine SWR-12D4 Type-R 12's on roughly 1300rms @4ohm. had to scrap the old idea, this is for my daily mustang other than my wall build but will still be removing the backseats to mount this down. I believe alpine reccomends 1.5ish per sub but iv seen good things from people that said 2+ works well with these. Anything is helpfull thank you.
  14. Help! lol I built a ported woofer box thinking this would sound A LOT better than my previous sealed box for 4-15" L7's but it doesn't! Hits high bass cool but not lows. Do I need to tune lower by making port longer? The box is 23"H x 49" W x 58"D port is 21.5"H x 15"W x 10.5"D tuned to about 34Hz per Torres Tuning Calculator... What did I do wrong? It is my 1st build so take it easy on me guys I barely get any air out of port. Don't want to give up and cancel the port and just wall the interior and make it sealed.
  15. Hey everyone! So I've got 6 Kicker L7 15's that I am going to run on 3 - Massive N4 Amps. Basically I need advice for the new box I'm wanting to build. I kind of have an idea of what i want it to look like BUT get stuck when it comes to port sizes. I attached a quick sketch. -This set up is NOT for my daily driver (2005 Cadillac Escalade ESV) and I listen to different music genres but mostly EDM and RAP. -I want them to pound and hit lows well when I turn em up -The maximum space I can use is: W:54in. x H:21in. x D:57in. so up to 32.88 cubic feet of gross volume, if it was one whole box. (The height can vary a few inches.) I was thinking of dividing this into 3 boxes within, for example, have one full piece top, bottom, sides and just have 3 walls inside dividing each set of 2-woofers. -The woofers and port(s) will be facing up. I know Kicker recommends up to 6 cu. ft. of net volume per sub for these subs for "SPL/DeepBass". Overall my questions are: -How many cubic feet should I make my box? -What frequency should I tune my box to? -Any other hints based on my needs? Thanks guys!
  16. Hi all..I'm new to the newer car audio.. Grew up with dj magic mike, the doggs, tech master peb, etc... never had the cash then for a system back then.. Decided as i've got a bit older to finally get myself a lil boom. The top brands have changed a lot, as i dont recognize a lot of them. Im currently running two cars-- work and my weekend car. My question is How much of a difference will a custom box make with my set ups? I have a camery,, stock head unit, 1200 watt rockford amp, and 2 memphis 12 m5's.. box is to specs size wise i believe , but both ported to same port straight shot thou. Not labyrinth style/type. My second is a kenwood excelon head unit, alpine 1100 watt amp, 1 kicker cvx 15, prefab ported box.. was gonna poly fil it? I Cant really start adding batteries, etc. , my lights dim bad on both cars now.. Was just wondering if you guys had any suggestions/recommendations? I mostly listen to decaf/trap/dj dance.... thx. for the suggestions
  17. Port Noise

    Ok, so I built a ported box for my Trans Am. The box sits in the T-Top area and extends to behind the back seat. I ended up with 3.67 cubic feet of air space. This box houses 2 p2d4-12's. I have a 7" long 4" diameter pvc port. The box sounds great and thumps until you get to lower frequencies around 35hz. This is where i start to get a lot of port noise. Box calculators say the box is tuned to around 31-33hz. This is where it gets weird. On Rockford's website they have a box adviser for my sub. It states for a single sub, I should use an 11.8" long 4" diameter pvc port and that would tune the box to 40hz. I input their specs into the calculator I used and it said the port should be 8.9" wtf. I have no idea how this ported stuff works since this is my first ported box. My question is how big does the port need to be to eliminate my port noise? I've experimented with different lengths of ports and its still there. Do I need to go bigger in the diameter department or is it something else? Here a link to Rockford site for my subs.http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/support/boxadvisor.aspx
  18. Just a quick video of White Clouds playing on the Sp4 12's Completely forgot to turn my phone sideways to make the video but owell, enjoy anyway!
  19. Need some help, I can't seem to get winisd to cooperate, joe x helped me last time and I love the box, I can do small hair tricks off of 2-10" ab xfl @2200 rms in a mustang so here is what I have to work with in my daily driver 97 2 dr s-10 blazer 2-15 orion xtr154d dvc wired to 2ohm sub specs are fs:24.5 vas:4.377 ft3 qms:12.044 qes:0.51 qts:0.495 re:7.20 z:4 xmass:12.075 rms:750 speaker diplacment:0.145 ft3 mounting depth:8.54 in each sub has it own identical amp at around 600rms @ 2ohm should the box be divided because of this? ther're going into the back of a 2dr blazer the room I have is 37" wide 22" deep 19" tall subs up / port back trying to tune somewhat low, trying to make the subs breath also I'm not keeping these subs for too long, maybe through summer if they last, will be upgrading at some point ANY help would be great, I can cut and build, just not the best with the math, Thank you
  20. browser keeps crashing so this will be done in sections. Let me start with saying this build was done in the sub 20 temperatures with occasional snow showers. I only had 3 days to complete build due to long work hours so it was kinda rushed! I came here looking for ideas on a new build to upgrade from my original 4 kicker comp cvr's and this is the results! 160 Ft" of 2/0 EB-Flex welding cable 2 XS D3100's Sky High fuse blocks Sky High 200 amp fuses Sky High 1/0 oversided copper lugs Sky High shrink tube 1 set of aluminum battery blocks
  21. Box Advice?

    So this was my first time trying to build a box for my sub, i used a online calculator for the port, but i screwed up the box a bit, i did not subtract the thickness off the wood so my box has less volume than desired, and my port tuning is higher than desired. on top of that i had to change how the box was built bexase my wood was only 24" long ways and i needed a 26" side. so im gonna keep dumpster diving for wood and when i get enough of the same im gonna go for it again. My gole: hit as loud and as low as i can (if i can slam that low 0:49 or so in on Big Kurt - My Sub ile be happy) amazon recommend 5-7'^3 for my sundown X18 and im assuming bigger means louder to i tried to aim for 7 @ 28hz but got 4.9 @ 33hz. here is a pick of my first box Im gonna build a better box but not be concerned weather the next one will fit in the car. ok now your filled in, here comes the advice part. i have really limited access to tools. at my disposal i have a 40 year old craftsman jigsaw that cant cut threw wood this thick, a dremel with quite a few bits, one of those switch blade saws for cutting down small trees, and i can go to my great ants house and use her table saw, but its like 50 years old and really small, so i cant use the guides because the wood is to long and i cant cut at angles. oh and if i go to her place she has fancy new jig saw that can cut thick wood. so with the tools i can use, any advice on getting low loud power? and is using larger recommend size better or should i shoot for 6'^3? and for the volume of the box do i need to worry about the space the port takes up or the woofer takes up? and incase it helps, a vid i made on the sound of my box . along with this showing my response at least in my house.
  22. Simple Ported Box

    Hey Guys, Longish Backstory, I have been working on getting my system dialed in with my current car(01' Chevy Monte Carlo SS)It's great and I used the advice from here and some other forums to build my last box and it went great,Been using it for about a little over a year now and impresses all of my buddies. With me living in Wisconsin where there is snow there is salt and the poor monte is getting really bad in the rust department. So I found a Chevy Avalanche with 4 wheel drive for the nasty winters here. I just want to transplant my system from the monte to the Av. I don't want to do anything crazy in depth yet on the box because I would like to get another woofer to match the other because I have the space in this vehicle, but for now just one. The Box, I want to build a box to fit into the midgate space of a 02' Chevy Avalanche Z71. I have already a RF P3 D2 15 from my previous car and really want to stick with this woofer for budget reasons. I was playing around in WinISD and got a box that looked good to my untrained eye. Ported 6 Ft^3 Tuned to 25hz for a nice flatish freq response for the space I have available ( Around 6 cubes ) Port - 6in circle port, 15.8in long Link to Graph - http://imgur.com/Rhlk3cl What do you guys think? Am I way off?
  23. Can someone help me design a box for 03 hyundai tiburon. tuned to 33hz or 34hz. the space available i have is 33"W x 15"H x 22"D(from seat to the trunk opening) I would like the sub and the port to face the seats. I would appreciate your guys help. and THANK YOU in advance
  24. I have recently just purchased a Rockford Fosgate P3 12" inch sub. I want to build a box but not really sure if it's best to stay within the manufactures recommended dimensions of .75 to 1.25 for a sealed box. And then the subject of what provides better sound, from a box thats taller than long, or longer than tall. Then the subject of facing the sub towards the back seat or out into the trunk. Can some one help me out? I'm very knowledgeable to car audio, just not at going beyond manufacturers recommended volume and trunks.