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Found 70 results

  1. browser keeps crashing so this will be done in sections. Let me start with saying this build was done in the sub 20 temperatures with occasional snow showers. I only had 3 days to complete build due to long work hours so it was kinda rushed! I came here looking for ideas on a new build to upgrade from my original 4 kicker comp cvr's and this is the results! 160 Ft" of 2/0 EB-Flex welding cable 2 XS D3100's Sky High fuse blocks Sky High 200 amp fuses Sky High 1/0 oversided copper lugs Sky High shrink tube 1 set of aluminum battery blocks
  2. I have 2 12inch DB drive wdx 2k subs that I want to make a box for now the specs say per sub 2.0 cu ft for sealed and 2.7 cu ft for ported. Now if I build it ported does that mean each sub needs 2.7 cu ft or can the whole box be 2.7 cu ft????
  3. I want to build a ported box for a polaris rzr that ports through a little access panel between the seats and hide the box OUTSIDE of the cabin behind the cabin in between the engine and cabin. Plenty of space and I can make it weather proof and all that. Question is can I make a 1:1 bandpass type box or does it need to be a 2:1 to sound right? I need to keep the voicecoil out of the dust/elements so I can make the sub last. So if i seal the sub and fire it into another chamber thats ported into the cab it would be ideal for my needs. Sub is a sundown sa 6.5 on 300 watts so i really want to get the most bass i can ideally. Thanks far any input fellas.
  4. I need help guys! Is there anyway possible someone could draw me up something on sketchup or something similar for two skar ma-8, they are recommended 1 cuft per sub tuned to 35hz, I have no real experience designing boxes and all help would be greatly appreciated
  5. So i need some advice on deciding a new setup for my 2010 gmc sierra crew cab. As of now, i have a bad setup with 2 rf p1 12's under the backseat sealed. I wanted to do a ported box like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMqdmKnwjL0 however, i talked to a local audio store owner and he said i could never get a good sounding ported box under my seats, any thoughts? He said i should just do 2 JL 10 inch w1's sealed because thats the best setup he's heard in a truck like mine.
  6. Hi guy's , just bought a Brand new JVC DRVN 12inch (Black cone) , going to run at 4ohm as is a single voice coil , off a 250 rms jvc amp . Please help me design a box !!! Medium size , Good for music but also hitting low for some shake (Y) maybe 34hz or 36 what you reckon ?? Want a basic rectangular port Please can someone advise me on box dimensions . Either inches or mm for each piece , send me a link to a good box , and help me figure a good HZ tune . Thanks guys Ollie(16) from New Zealand Subwoofer - http://www.jvc.co.nz/CS-G1200.html Subwoofer spec's - http://www.jvc.co.nz/assets/pdf-manual/CS-GD1200.pdf
  7. Hello all, I have a pretty funky setup at the moment, you might be scratching your head when you see some of the pictures, but that's beside the point. I was wondering if my port placement will cause the sub to unload at higher volumes? Also, how will I know if it does unload, any special sound I should listen for? I have been playing it (powered from a psu) and it seems to sound fine... Any input would be great, thanks.
  8. hey, im running a fairly basic low powered setup: audioline azx800m mono(800 peak, 400rms @ 2ohms) 2 x kenwood kfcw3013(400rms @ 4ohms) in paralell here is the datasheet for the subs: http://images.kenwood.eu/files/prod/2093/5/KFC-W3013_2513.pdf anyway my question is, should i continue to run a ported box.. which is just about exploding from the pressure and i have had to reinforce or to port it, however i have looked into it and the resonant frequency is 25hz & the Qes=.91 making for an ebp of around 27 meaning that it is recommended that i remain sealed, however pioneer gives specifications for both ported and sealed boxes. By the way im more of a loud bass guy than a quality guy, anyway id appreciate to hear your input guys!
  9. Hey SMD members, I finished my 2011 STI build last year and it has worrked pretty well since then, but I knew down the line I would want to switch to ported encosure and unleash the true power of my W10GTI sub. Build info here; http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/173212-bboytaktixs-2011-subaru-sti-modest-sq-build/ This will be my first ported box build. Now, Here is where I need some help/suggestions/opinions. Currently I am running the W10GTI in a 1.0 cubic foot box (minus driver displacement). I would like to keep the footprint of the box relatively similar, since I am really enjoying being able to put the seat down and fitting things like skis and my snowboard beside the sub all the way through. If anything I would want to make the box come more forward. JBL has a few recommendations for box size and parameters; first one is a 1.75 ft^3 box; http://www.jbl.com/resources/Brands/jbl/Products/ProductRelatedDocuments/en-US/BoxesandParameters/W10GTi_rev_f.pdf Second is a SPL competition style box between 2.25 to 3 ft^3; http://www.jbl.com/resources/Brands/jbl/Products/ProductRelatedDocuments/en-US/BoxesandParameters/W10spl_f.pdf but considering I don't compete, and I don't want to sacrifice that much trunk space, option 1 would be more ideal to me. I have also seen the `lab slapbox` which is designed for the W10GTI and is 1.4 ft^3. So my first question is which size would be ideal and enough for this sub? And does anyone have experience with the W10GTI in ported enclosures, and what are you running? Second question is ports. Do I make things simple and go with aero ports? Or should I do a classic but well-designed and executed slot port? benefits of each? I will take my time with this box to make it perfect and get the most sound out of the powerful little sub. Third question would be tuning. I have read that most prefer to tune this sub around the 28Hz region to get the best response and kick out of it. Suggestions are welcome. I am familiar with the box tuning calculator, but have not used it in a while. Last question would be general recommendations or things to ensure I do during my box build to make sure I get the most sound out of it. I already know to make sure the corners are all sealed well with sealant or another good product. Also I used terminal cups on my last box (made sure to seal it well), better solutions for this box? I see some going with bolts straight through, seems simple enough. thanks in advance for opinions, thoughts, suggestions and experience.
  10. Need some help, I can't seem to get winisd to cooperate, joe x helped me last time and I love the box, I can do small hair tricks off of 2-10" ab xfl @2200 rms in a mustang so here is what I have to work with in my daily driver 97 2 dr s-10 blazer 2-15 orion xtr154d dvc wired to 2ohm sub specs are fs:24.5 vas:4.377 ft3 qms:12.044 qes:0.51 qts:0.495 re:7.20 z:4 xmass:12.075 rms:750 speaker diplacment:0.145 ft3 mounting depth:8.54 in each sub has it own identical amp at around 600rms @ 2ohm should the box be divided because of this? ther're going into the back of a 2dr blazer the room I have is 37" wide 22" deep 19" tall subs up / port back trying to tune somewhat low, trying to make the subs breath also I'm not keeping these subs for too long, maybe through summer if they last, will be upgrading at some point ANY help would be great, I can cut and build, just not the best with the math, Thank you
  11. Hi Guys, I just joined the forum. I kept reading and trying to educate myself last two weeks but there is nothing similar to my case. I recently bought a Corvette C6 Convertible and I want to install my single RockFord P3D4-12 (already have it) and I want to built a custom ported enclosure. This is where it gets tricky. The requirement for ported enclosure for my sub is 1.8 cu. ft. which is basically taking almost all the space in the trunk (not a problem for me). My question is what kind of design should I choose for maximum (being tuned to 32hz) output? I have three options in my mind, First; Sub up, port back. In this case, I can full fill 1.8 cu. ft. easily but the problem is sub facing up, there is almost no air room between sub and the trunk. Plus it can rattle a lot (this can be fixed maybe) Second; Sub and port facing back with an angle or it wont fit (height is 12.5"). Plus side is, I can use the back wall but the distance will be short. Negative side is it will be hard to reach 1.8 cu. ft. Third and last; Port and Sub facing to the driver with an angle (it has to be with angle or wont fit). This is my least favorite but then again it is a 2 seater car. I think I might be the only one with this case. Help is much appreciated, Please help, I am going crazy. Thank you guys.
  12. Hey guys, Im looking for your opinions on my next build. I plan on doing either two 12s at around 1500 rms with subs and port firing into the cabin sealed off from the trunk or a 4th order (3:1)at around 500 rms with a single 12 and port firing into the cabin. -Ported just over 3 ft3 around 35 htz -4th order around 5 ft3 around 50 htz Car- 2010 Civic Coupe Looking for something that really hits the lows and gets loud. Thanks, look forward to seeing some of your ideas.
  13. basically as the title says. i was planning on a .75 ft^3 box for a single 8, but have been reconsidering that option since most people have been saying that the box has to be huge because of the port. I wanted the ported vs the sealed cause i didn't want to lose out on the low stuff 30 Hz and below.
  14. hey guys, i was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on designing a ported box. i recently picked up two 10 inch rockford P3s. they are the second model that was 400 watts rms with 800 peak. this is just a fun little project for me so don't hate on the subs too much. but yea, any help with designing a ported box for them would be awesome. i drive a mazda 626 so standard trunk space i suppose. thanks!
  15. As a little side project, I had an old Martin Logan 10" lying around and decided to create an enclosure for it and give it as a gift to a teacher of mine. He's a big fan of the cowboys so I figured i'd incorporate that somewhere, I hardly documented the building process but the finished product I am extremely proud of, and does it bump! Specs: Vb: 1.088 Ft^3 Fb: 38.8 Hz F3: 29 Hz RMS: 300 Watts
  16. im building an SQL set up with a single 12 for my daily. im stuck between 2 subs. dayton Ultimax http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512 OR Alpine type S or R 12" R: http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-12d4/ S: http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/sws-12d2/ i will only be running 500rms for the sub as i plan to get the alpine PDX-V9 amp http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-v9/ ill be running Alpine SPR-60C in all 4 doors http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spr-60c/ ive owned and heard the new type r's before and they are great in a good box but when entering some info into winisd pro it shows the dayton will have a much smoother gain and much better low end compared to the alpine. but reqires a 3.5ft^3 box to do so... Dayton is orange 3.5ft^3 dual 3" aeros 15.5" long each tuned at 24.9Hz Alpine Type R is Yellow 2.0ft^3 dual 3" aeros 16.5" long each tuned at 32Hz
  17. Hey forum! I got my first car recently (01 540i) and Im ready to do something with the sound system. My plans are 4 Kenwood W3012 woofers in the trunk. I know these arent the best in game but I dont wanna purchase other woofers yet as I already own these and Im doing a budget setup as a proof of concept to myself and friends. Ill do some JBL components in the stock BMW 3 way location. Only issues I came up with is the lack of space to build a ported box for the 4 woofers. The box has to be sealed at around 4.1-4.3 ft^3. My question is is better to keep the 4 woofers sealed or drop two of them and build a good ported box for 2 of them? Im holding back from the porting only two as seeing as these woofers arent really designed to hit some low notes around 33 hertz. My needs for the sound output of this box is mostly Hip Hop, Dubstep with sometimes the need for rock/metal. I want the box to be loud for what it is and not in much need for SQ. As for power, the woofers require 400 watts each and Ill be running a Belva BB5000D at around 2500-3000 watts RMS @ 1 ohms. I know this is overkill for the woofers but Im keeping the gain down and I want this amp now to be ready for when i decide to upgrade to something of high quality. Keep in mind Im a freshly entered college student so all the equipment is mostly budget equipment for the time being. If you guys could give me your thoughts and recommendations on how to make this the best it can be that'd be great. Ill post some car picks to show you what Im working with. I've heard great advice from this forum. Thanks in advance!
  18. Im trying to build an enclosure NO bigger than W 34" x H 14" x D 14.5" tuned to ~35Hz. I have an odd trunk opening so anything bigger wont fit. Sundown recommends .5-.75ft^3 per sub so I believe everything checks out if my math is correct. 3/4" MDF will be used. any help?
  19. Alright so I have an aq3500 playing at 1 ohm (4300 w rms) on 1 fi sp4 18 dual 2 sub. I'm looking for the a quality sounding box with some deep bass the will get DOWN when I wanna demo. This is for a daily set up, no competitions. Just wanna sound clean and loud (deep). I have 8 total cu ft to play with. Box options: big ported box, 4th order bandpass, or 6th order bandpass. What box would sound good, hit hard, and hit the lows like no other?
  20. so im new to this whole car audio thing. being on a budget i went with 2 12" kenwood kfc-w3013ps with a Hifonics ZRX1000.1D it was a deal on sonicelectronix.com i already have an old sealed box but i want to build a new ported box. i have no idea on what dimensions to use or rather or not i should put a single port in the middle or 2 ports (one on each side of the box). if yall could give me any dimension and or pics itd be appreciated. oh and its going in a 2010 ford fusion.
  21. been awhile since i posted last, so here goes.. system run down 99 explorer sport 4.0 4x4 1 0ga power run to the back big 3 done in 0ga 1000ca battery up front optima yellow top in back grounds are to chassis with 0ga wire 2- brz1700.1 amps running 1 ohm per amp 2- soundqubed hds315 dual 2ohm 8cf box with a small octoport ( free box to start out with ) pionner avh280bt head unit pac lc-1 bass knob we did a 147.1db and clamped at 711rms per amp at 43hz. we did that on stock 95amp alt and since then installed a H/O 250amp. by ear seems a little louder, clamped it and is at 768rms at 14.5v on rear battery so gained a little.. have skyhigh 2/0 coming to replace the 0ga power run, hoping to get more voltage to the rear and up the rms again, will see come next weekend.. our delema is horrible box rise i was told so we are not getting close to rated from our amps. did a clamp test at .5ohm and got 646rms. have the plans and cut sheet for a spec box for these subs but am wondering a box change/ more port area could help the box rise and gain us rms? we are just starting out on the audio scene.. we have plans on building a 4th order b pillar wall and am curious on something. we could do a 4 hds315 4th order with our current amps. friend said it should be louder because of more cone area, or do a 2 hds315 4th order with a cab1600.1 or ta1.3000d amp at .5ohm.. curious on thoughts as we are doing our 2nd comp oct 1st.. and we are aiming for a 150. so spec ported box on more power, 4th with 2 subs on more power, or 4 15s in a 4th with our current amps and see how it goes..
  22. Okay Guys i am going to be puting 2 kicker compd152's (40CWD152) in my van that i already have the 3rd row seats out so theres plenty of room. http://www.kicker.com/CompD Just dont know where to get the best box to put these in i live close to louisville,KY not sure where to buy one locally or just get one online just want a really great sounding box. Thanks, Adam
  23. Hey everyone. I'm new to the forums. I have experience with car audio for about 20 years as a hobby. Been lurking mostly on here but I want to get some ideas in place for a new build for my truck. I currently have a 10" kicker solo classic sealed in an underseat custom enclosure with about .67 cu ft before displacement. I'm running it off a kicker zx400.1 at 2 ohms. I listen mainly to rock/classic rock/metal 95% of the time. Rap and R/B is the other 5%. So quickness and punch is very important to me for my listening preference. My goal is to get the low punch that you get when you go to a concert and listen to those 18"s hit you in the gut. Super deep is not that necessary, but deeper and punchier than what I currently get, which sucks ass. What I'm planning on doing is to have my friend help me build a custom fiberglass enclosure and getting a different sub. I've narrowed it down to the RE Audio SCX10 or the Sundown e10 v3 d4. I've ran some comparisons on WINISD and the results are a little different, but pretty close with the parameters I'm using. The Re has a better TFM while the Sundown is a little better on SPL from about 57 hz up. I have no idea what the TFM is, but hopefully one of you can help out on that. So that would make my decision a little easier on which sub to get. Now with the fiberglass enclosure, I know making it ported is going to be near to impossible. If it is possible, I'd like to hear ideas on how to do it. So my other option would be to get a 12" earthquake SLAPS PR. Now for a few questions about all this. (Sorry for the story, but want to give as much info as possible) Ported, PR, or sealed? Based on the WINISD I came up with, which would be better for my musical preference? Understanding the terms in WINISD would be a pleasure. A little help? My budget is going to be around $300-$350 for materials. I don't want to upgrade the amp yet. It's working fine. I'm looking more for sound quality than boom. (Rock music?? ) I also want to keep the enclosure under the seat. I have a big family and space is a premium. Thanks for any help.
  24. hey guys just gonna be designing a box pretty soon and was wondering what you're guy's recommendations are for amount of air space and port area is should be generally shooting for for 2 t1d212 subs in a ported box. they'll be ran of a T1500.1 and im thinking of a tuning around 32hz or so here's the subs specs http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=112877 any help would be greatly appreciated!
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