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Not Your Grandfather's Ohm Load...


Charles Phillips

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That's it! It must be the transfer of electrical energy through the magnetic field that causes a drop in resistance. I might be able to get a little bit more power by doing more runs to account for inefficiency in the wire, but other than that I'd say my question is answered. Thanks! Posting my builds within the weekend hopefully.

goddammit!

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Well it's more that just a wire when it's surrounded by a magnetic field. There's inductance to consider, but that may be the wrong term. I think that inductance is actually part of the coil generating it's electromagnetic force when power is supplied.

Inductance is what a coil gives you, it doesn't require a magnet but creates a magnetic field from the current going in which tries to push current in the opposite direction of the applied current. That's why coils are used for Low Pass filtering. They pass DC with little reisistance but impedance approaches infinite as frequency increases.

That's it! It must be the transfer of electrical energy through the magnetic field that causes a drop in resistance. I might be able to get a little bit more power by doing more runs to account for inefficiency in the wire, but other than that I'd say my question is answered. Thanks! Posting my builds within the weekend hopefully.

Resistance of the coil is based on the length of coil and the gauge and material of the coil wire.

Impedance is a whole different animal. Your speaker's parts (inductance of the coil, mass of cone and air it's pushing, compliance of suspension) plus the volume of air in the box and the port create a somewhat complex circuit:

https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Engineering_Acoustics/Bass_Reflex_Enclosure_Design

Click this link to see a picture of the schematic and description of which parts of the system act as what in the "circuit"

Anyway, a good rule of thumb is if you have to ask, you have no business running your equipment below rated impedance. Likewise if you can't afford to repair/replace an amp you probably should avoid it. .5 ohm is torturous on semiconductors regardless of how "stable" your friends tell you they are. I'd do it myself, but I have an annual budget allocated to broken equipment.

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That's it! It must be the transfer of electrical energy through the magnetic field that causes a drop in resistance. I might be able to get a little bit more power by doing more runs to account for inefficiency in the wire, but other than that I'd say my question is answered. Thanks! Posting my builds within the weekend hopefully.

Magnetic field or no magnetic field, more current through the copper is more resistance in the wire. When electrons move along a conductor influenced by a magnetic field the resistance will generally increase, but this is not always the case. Usually, but not always. I doubt very much that you are moving enough current through the wire you have selected for this to be an issue for you.

You can verify this easily however. If you have access to a Digital Multi Meter place the positive and negative probes at the wire ends at the terminals of both the amplifier and the loudspeaker for each length of conductor when cold. Disconnect both the source and the load. Read and record the DC resistance in milliOhms. Now use the conductors at full power for at least a good few minutes in an attempt to build heat in the conductor, as the DC resistance will increase with the change in temperature as copper and aluminum are both Ohmic metals where the DC resistance and temperature are directly proportional. Once this has been done, read and record the DC resistance of the wire in milliOhms. Compare the values. I will hazard a guess that they have not changed, and that both values will be less than one Ohm.

Now, while this does not take into account the natural capacitance of the conductor nor the possibility of inductance set up by the forming of coils or loops in your wiring, it should be a good enough yardstick to measure if your conductors to the loudspeaker are insufficient. I have encountered this a few times though it has always been visually obvious that far too small conductors have been used. As an example, using 8 AWG conductors driving a nominal four ohm load the conductor must be about 170 feet long before power is reduced by half a deciBell or 11% of the output power. At one Ohm this is more likely to be about fifty feet. So unless your conductors are 12AWG or smaller with runs of fourty to fifty feet I doubt very much that you will increase output power by increasing the amount of wire runs to your loudspeaker.

Cheers,

Mick

Work;
DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS Venice
Meyer Sound CQ-1's, CQ-2's, PSW-2's
RAMSA Monitor Amplifiers
P.Audio Monitors
BSS OMNIDRIVE and Soundweb
DBX 231 and Klark Teknik DN360 EQ's
RCF TT22A
RCF ART320

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Vice - yes, if you connected two points with thicker wire you would have less resistance than with thinner wires.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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With this logic, if you kept adding more or thicker wires, you'd eventually end up with a short circuit - no resistance at all.

dont add fuel to this fire please. Just let it burn.

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