Check out the SMD Store @!

Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Amplifier'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • System Of The Month
    • SMD FORUMS - SOTM sponsored by CE Auto Electric, XS Power, and Mechman!
  • General
    • SMD Official WcCarAudio Store - All SMD Products and MORE here!
    • SMD Official Amazon Store - All SMD Products and MORE here!
    • SMD Official eBay Store - All SMD Products and MORE here!
    • SMD Forums Technical Difficulty Area - have a technical problem with the site? let us know, we will try to fix it!
    • Tunez - All things music related
    • Security Center - Car/Home Alarms, devices, tactics, tips....
    • Air Ride / Hydraulics - Got Switches? Want Switches? Post here!
    • Suspension and Brakes (4x4, street drops) - Lift it, Drop it..STOP it!
    • Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!
    • Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
    • Wheels and Tires - The rubber hits the road here!
    • Member Rides & Builds -- Show off your whip, Show off your System!
    • Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic
    • Just projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!
    • Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
  • Equipment
    • General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
    • Pro Audio / Home Audio / Home Theatre
    • Head Units-Processors and Eq's
    • Amplifiers
    • Williston Audio Labs / OldSchool Stereo - Classic to Current Car Audio and Amplifier Testing Lab!
    • Amp Guts
    • Mid's and highs
    • Subwoofers / Enclosures
    • Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
    • Second Skin Sound Deadening and Automotive Insulation!
    • Sonic Electronix - Great Selection Great Prices
    • DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
    • XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
    • Mobile Solutions - Installer tool and training PARADISE
    • Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
    • Ascendant Audio Subwoofers/Speakers
    • MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
    • SKAR AUDIO - Performance Audio/Reasonable Prices!
    • CE Auto Electric Supply – Providing Solutions to all of your Automotive Electrical Needs
    • D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
    • - SMD / D'Amore Engineering Products (and more)
    • Pride Car Audio - Russian Manufacturer of Car Audio Equipment
    • Incriminator Audio
    • B2 Audio
  • WcCarAudio
  • System Design Knowledge Base
  • Fabrication, Fiberglass, Etc
    • Mark of C.A.F. (Car Audio Fabrication) - Fiberglass / Fabrication Custom install Tutorials & Techniques
    • Groundpounder2k2's Corner (Read Only Archive)
  • TOOLS and TESTING Devices
    • SMD Distortion Detector (DD-1) Topics
    • SMD Crossover Callibrator (CC-1) Topics
  • Competitors Corner
    • Car Shows
    • Competitors Corner
    • Team Discussion
  • Misc Stuff
    • Grown Folks Buziness....18+ Approved Members Only
    • Video Games (All consoles) Ratings, previews, demos......the latest
    • Computer Talk - News, technology, advice
    • Cell Phone Central - Sprint, AT&T, Verizon - All things Cellular
    • Big Boys Toys..(and girls too) dirt, sand, road, water.....discuss your toys here!
    • Guns and Ammo, etc. - guns, tasers, even lasers...all self defense weapons discussed here
    • Product Reviews - Post a review on a product you have first hand, personal experience with.
    • Tattoo Topics (and other body art) show off your tats! show off your piercings!
    • Political Arena - The one and ONLY place on this board to talk politics.
    • Help Wanted! (Job opportunities) - Need a job? Hiring?Know of a place that is? Post it. All fields welcome
    • Photo-Shop Gurus - Show off your photo-shop skills here.
    • Health and Fitness
    • Misc Electronics (non Car Audio related)
  • Misc. Manufacturers (Friends of SMD)
    • Rockford Fosgate – Car Audio for Fanatics (Read Only Archive)
    • Fi Car Audio Subwoofers
    • Maxxsonics (MBQUART, Hifonics, Autotek and Crunch) **** READ ONLY ARCHIVE
    • US AMPS / RE Audio - ****READ ONLY ARCHIVE
    • Kicker Car Audio! **** READ ONLY ARCHIVE
    • Audio Savings ****READ ONLY ARCHIVE
  • For Sale / Want to Buy
    • Want To Buy
    • Buyer / Seller Feedback
    • HOT Deals!
    • Premium Classifieds Section
    • For Sale: Car audio related equipment only
    • SMD Garage Sale - New and Used NON Car Audio Items
    • Trading Post
  • Online Dealers
  • Your Local Shop/Dealer & Special "Read only" forums
    • SPL Lab - caraudio and racing measuring devices
    • Audiotistics - Victorville, California - BEST SHOP in the High Desert!
    • Del Rey Customs - Innovative Solutions for Innovative People
    • Ground Pounders - Earth Shaking and still Driveable!
    • Performance Audio - Las Vegas, Nevada
    • Pulse Car Audio, Salisbury Maryland (Read Only Archive)
    • Michael Müller aka The Big Oki - Master Groundpounder!
    • Michael Hughes - AKA SPL2K
    • Defiant Audio - Smyrna Delaware (read only archive)


  • Off topic video's
  • Bass Demo's
  • Subwoofer Reviews
  • Installations
  • Tutorials
  • Build Series

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 122 results

  1. Alright, i am sure you guys have heard this many times before. I have 4 18" FI BTL N2 subwoofers (V1) and I want to install them in my living room. Being dual 2 subs... I could wire one to one amp at 4ohm in series. So, guess ill need 4 amps. Any suggestions? i have been looking and found a few dayton audio amps.. I havent found anything that does around 1500 watts rms at 4 ohm. I am assuming this isnt common in home audio? Or will i need to hook up my welder to my 750.1? Lol.
  2. Hey so I've only been having this issue since I switched out my subs and amplifier from a kenwood excelon set up to the rockford amp and subs. Whats happening is the amp BANGS all day no matter what at the lows but the moment it gets to a higher frequency seems like a punchier frequency (I wish i Knew what frequency it was but i Just know its not the low end probably way closer to 80hz), it goes into PROTECTION mode. I thought at first it wasn't getting enough voltage and my battery tested at 50% cause i do have a battery tester at our shop, so I changed my battery today and I'm still having the same issue. I know its not my wiring because i had no problems with others amps and subs ect. Rockfords support tech keeps saying its clipping at this certain frequency, which I'm not eliminating yet, but the thing is I have my gain set to just under 7, and it was still doing the same thing even when i had the gain set to under 5. and it doesnt hit nearly as hard as it should be unless i turn the gain closer to over half. I just want to know what i can eliminate and what i should try if you guys are familiar with this issue. If my amp is clipping why wouldnt it be clipping on the lows and only does it on the highs? Another thing is it hardly does it when I'm parked, mailny does it when I'm driving which is really irritating because I want it when I'm driving I could care less about being parked as this is just my daily driver. Any advice would help. The other 3 installers at my shop said battery and rockford only said clipping.. I also tested my alternator with our snap on tester and it also tested good. All that rockford said was too turn down the gain but I know those subs can handle what I'm giving them at least I would think.. Radio is outputting full 5.0 volts Gain = ~60% Lpf = ~25% Punch EQ = 0 subsonic filter = 50% 2005 Dodge Stratus 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D412s with RF R1200 Prime Amplifier 4 gauge rockford power and ground wire 12 gauge rf speaker wire down to 1 ohm Kenwood Exceleon kdc x501 subwoofer level set to +10 sub lpf set to through
  3. Hello everyone, I didn't see any similar topics on forum so I thought I will open one.. So the point of this topic is to post your watt clamped results from your system. You can post pictures or just write.. It would be cool if you wrote your equipment: amplifier, subwoofer, box size and tuning, electrical and then post your clamped results. You can post a picture or video of your system too! If you don't know how to measure your watts look at this tutorial: So let me begin. Amplifier: Hifoinics BXI6000D Subwoofer: Fi audio Q 15 wired to 1 ohm Box: 4cuft 32hz tuning Electrical: 2x 54ah battery & 75a alternator Clamp result: 1064 Watts (50 Hz)
  4. Krisztián Arnold

    How to measure aplifier RMS?

    Hi Guys! I'm new here, but I've been doing car audio stuff for years so I know the basics. However there is one thing that I can not get the correct answer to, and that is how to measure an amplifier's RMS! I read through may pages of forums, but every single one of them just got me more confused. Since I don't have a fancy equipment to do it all I've been wondering if you guys can help me out. What kind of equipment and methods do I need to determine it properly? Also I've been told that the good old Ohm's, and Watt's law are not working correctly in this scenerio, witch I doubt but who knows, I might be wrong. And filally here is the video, that got me mixed up to the poin where I can't understand anything: I'm kinda stuck on this one, and it makes me go crazy. PLS HELP! THX in advance!
  5. Jrose


    You do not meet the rules to sell here, please chck out the rules, and post items in the proper section. If its imperative that you sell here, use the premium classified section.
  6. So the other day my friend came over with his Banda Viking 10k for me to tune and I was unable to tune it with my DD-1 and CC-1. I also had the same experience with a Taramps HD8000. The DD-1 detected clipping at near minimum gain on both amps. I used the -5db overlap track for setting the gains. When I attempted to tune the Banda, I tested the maximum undistorted HU voltage and it was 2.3v. It has a maximum input sensitivity of 3v so I should be able to turn the gain up a bit before hitting distortion but as soon as I turn the gain up just a slight hair, the DD-1 distortion light came on. I heard that the clipping indicators on the amps are accurate so I tried it out. I barely had to move it at all from the DD-1 set point to the amp's clip indicator set point so it seemed accurate to me. Once that was set I moved on to the CC-1. As soon as I hook it up, I get a red signal light with the track playing on volume 1 and even without any track playing at all... wierdest shit I ever saw. No matter what I tried, the signal light stayed red. I've tuned many amps without any issues whatsoever. The only amps my SMD tools didn't work on were those 2 brazilians. Has anyone else had issues tuning brazilians?
  7. I'm kind of new to car audio and I can't seem to figure this out. If you are using a crossover or DSP how do you get power to your tweeters? I don't know any amplifiers that have that low of wattage except 4-channel amps. But then they only have 2 outputs, show what do I do with the other 2 channels?
  8. Juan1988

    Amp tuning

    What should I set the knobs labeled "Width" and "Center" my previous amp didn't have these knobs and hit lowsend clean below 30hz but theven amp I have now hits dirty
  9. (Sorry if bad english) Hi, I currently have a Hifonics BRX2416.1D (which delivers 1600w at 2 ohms) for my Sundown X12 V.2 (1500W, dual coil). The sub is 4ohm and wired at 2ohm, so it takes about 1600W. I want to buy another X12 V.2 D4, and a BRX3016.1d (which delivers 2000w at 2 ohms) to have a good amount of power and to wire the two amps as slave / master. But I really don't know : - Is it possible to wire two different amps as slave master? (like the 2416.1d and 3016.1d) - What will be the impedence if I put my two subs in parallel or series? - How many watts will each subs recieve? - If I manage to get about 2000w for each sub, will they take it or will they break? (I heard that sundown subs are underrated by the manufacturer) Thanks !
  10. Alright so I've had my amp (saz-1200D) for about 2 years now and I recently sold my old subs to a friend to help pay for my new subs. I just got one of my new subs (SA-12 D4) in the mail. So I take it out the box set it in the truck and wire it up in parallel, positive to positive and negative to negative and check it with a cheap handheld meter and got almost exactly 2 ohms. When I went to play music I had almost zero output. I thought there was no output until I went in and changed my sub level to max just to see if it would move and it just barely vibrates. What's weird though ia that my SMD OM-1 shows everything is output wise at the volume level I listen at. Nothing has been changed since the last subs were in place. Any suggestions on where to start? Thanks!!
  11. Gutta Trash

    Box rise is a b****

    Alright guys, so my boy Chauncy did a full tune for me, meter,clamps, scope, the works. I am currently running a AB Phantom 4k 2 15's wired to 1ohm. After all the tuning and testing my heart was broken. I'm doing a 145, BUT after box rise the amp is seeing 5.1 Ohms, meaning my subs are only seeing about 280 Watts each and are rated for 1100 each. Full potential not even close to being recognized, I have to change this. So I am going to piss everyone off and go with a Brazilian amplifier, this is where I need help. I would like to get an 8k but from what I've researched a 5k will get me real close to giving the subs full RMS power. I'm looking at the Stetsom 5k's there is a model that is 1 Ohm stable and 1 that is 2 Ohm stable. At 4 Ohms the 2 Ohm model actually makes more power, but would I have an issue with it only being 2 Ohm stable given that my subs are wired to 1. Will the amplifier actually ever see below 2 say at low volume etc..? Thanks in advance gents.
  12. Hi, I have a car in which I did a car audio install but I did not want to replace the factory nav/radio so I bought a Fiio e17k Alpen 2, a portable DAC/AMP. I'm using my phone as source connected via usb so it uses the fiio's DAC instead of the phones. The Fiio has a line in/out connection in which I used a 3.5mm splitter to connect an aux cable to the factory radio and another rca cable to connect to the amplifier. My sub has only rca inputs (Hifonics BE2500.1D) so I'm assuming it only takes low level signal and no speaker level signal. Is there any way to tell whether the line out on the fiio e17k is sending low level or high level signal? I tested it with the hifonics amp gains at 1,500 watts and it sounds very nice and clean but I have no way of knowing if the amp internals are being damaged. Any help would be appreciated.
  13. So, I wanted to make a thread like this for awhile, but I never really used this account and I've been lurking for awhile, so now I've decided to do it. The point of this thread is to explain the capacitors that amplifiers use, and how they can majorly effect the amplifiers performance. So we're gonna start off with the basics: What is a capacitor, and what does it do? Capacitors are simple little devices, they're like batteries, only they can release their charge inside of a second at any moments notice, and regain that charge just as fast. The most common type that is used in amplifiers are called Electrolytic Capacitors. They use high purity aluminum inside of them attached to a negative and positive (called a Cathode and Anode). However, there are layers of aluminum wrapped into a roll, with paper separating them. This paper is impregnated with an electrolyte, this is crucial to a capacitor. The electrolyte makes or breaks the capacitor, if it's bad quality or the cap in general is bad quality, the electrolyte will usually fail. This will cause it to generate a large amount of hydrogen gas inside of the capacitor. There is a vent on top of the capacitor that will allow this to release. However, there is a lot more than hydrogen in the smoke that comes out, breathing it in is EXTREMELY toxic. Do NOT attempt to explode a capacitor for fun, the safety vents on the top do not always work, the failure can cause them to explode and take off like a bottle rocket, or send shrapnel everywhere like a hand grenade (literally). This can severely injure you, it's happened to me, don't let it happen to you. Everyone here with a small system and a single battery with a stock alt probably uses a cap to stop their lights from dimming. As for the caps inside of the amplifier itself, they're usually not big enough to do this, however, new technologies are going to make this very possible, very soon. I'll explain more of this later. So what are the caps for? They're there to provide a quick burst of electricity as the amplifier needs it. You've all probably seen the amplifiers on the dyno, when they're in dynamic mode, they usually put out substantially more then when on certified. This is because of those capacitors. When they are charged, they provide a large burst of electricity at the optimal voltage for the amplifier to run at internally for a burst. This is why they perform much better this way. Let's explain this a little more. Let's say the amplifier is going to have two things happen to it: It is rated for 1000W RMS @ 1ohm, it is then put to a 1 ohm load and it will be tested with a 40hz burst tone every 3 seconds, and then a constant 40hz tone. You put the amplifier on a power supply bank with the batteries charged to 14.2V, and the amplifier is running happily. The capacitors inside charge and it's ready to go. First test: You put the 40hz tone through the amplifier and it makes 1028 watts, right at it's rating and you're happy with that. However, you then put a 40hz burst tone to it and you get a whopping 1482 watts out of it, what? This is the peak wattage of the amplifier, if you'd read the manual, you'd see that it says that it's peak is 1500W. A little more than your shitty Pyle sub can handle. This is a perfect example of the capacitors doing their job in the amplifier, they provided a quick burst of electricity in large volume for a a short period of time. However, you see this amazing deal on an amplifier from Power Akoustic, 300$ for 10000W!? You think this is insane and buy the amp right away from a shady eBay seller. You put it on the dyno, run the same tests, and are extremely disappointed. You only got 2500W at 0.5ohms certified, and 5000 dynamic, bummer! But why does the amplifier not put out it's rated power? There are a lot of factors here, one is it being only 300$. The others though are a possible combination of these things: Power supply of amplifier not being capable of a reliable supply for the amplifier, the capacitors being cheap and underrated for the job, or the output section being overrated. Commonly it's the caps inside of the amplifier being cheap, and used barely for what they're rated because the manufacturer knows they won't last otherwise. Take for example the Hifonics Brutus 1200.4X this amplifier suffers from this majorly. I have one, and I've examined it's power supply, and I can tell you right now they cheaped out in this part of the amp. The caps are all chinese cheap capacitors, rated 1000uF (uF = MicroFarad) at 35v. Now here's a shocker: overrating the capacitor does NOT increase it's life that much, and I'll explain more in a minute. For now, let's concentrate on something else: capacitor size. 1 farad(F) = roughly 1 million uF. So 1000uF is small, right? This depends on where it's used. If you take a capacitor that's rated 100v 1000uF and charge it fully. Then foolishly put your fingers across the terminals (do NOT EVER do this, EVER) you have just shoved a HUGE ammount of electricity through your body at 100v. You're gonna get hurt, really, really bad. I've done this and it hurts like hell, it feels like where the electricity was flowing through is on fire, I shorted a 200V 2200uF capacitor charged to 120V across my arms on accident. Needless to say I fell down screaming and not able to move my arms at all. I was lucky, I survived. My arms can never stay stable again, but I'm alive and that's what matters. Don't be an idiot with these things, I'm telling you this for your own safety. Now, back to sizing. 1000uF is quite small electrically speaking, it's a common size in most common household items, like laptop chargers, radios in cars and in the house, televisions, and now becoming more common: led light bulbs. However, for large applications like a 1200W amplifier, they don't have any business being in the power supply, unless it's for something small like a controller circuit. However, powering an amplifier of that size is absolutely something they're not meant for, so why did Hifonics use them? Because cheap caps cannot do near their rated voltages for long periods of time without failing. Lots of cheap caps are overrated as well, they just straight up can't even do their rated voltage. Why do manufacturers do this? Not even I know, good capacitors are usually only a few CENTS more in terms of price. I've imported things from China to sell on eBay, believe me when I say cheap caps aren't worth it. Common brands of shit caps include: Chang, Chenxing (if you ever get an amp with these caps in it, you've bought trash), Chong, GSC, G-Luxon, Ltec, Rukycon, Rulycon, Weicon, ZCKJ, Yihcon/ZHN, JWCO, Evercon, and so many others I can't even list. However, in this list are a few that the technicians here will know I didn't list, I'll talk about those in a moment. So when it comes to good caps like Nichicon, Nippon Chemi Con, Sanyo, Elna, and Matsushita/Panasonic, they will last forever running at their rated voltage. The brands above are known for having the electrolyte evaporate before the caps themselves fail. It's ridiculous how they usually don't even cost that much more, meanwhile they can make the life of the amplifier, now the quality of the cap has to do a lot with it's size, let me explain why. You get a cheap amplifier with cheap caps that are overrated so they don't fail. However they are smaller in capacitance because as the voltage increases, the physical size of the capacitor increases. This also goes for the capacitance rating of the capacitor. This cheap amplifier is rated for 1000W, but on the dynamic test you only get 750W, a little short of the rated 1000W. You take it to a technician and he sees that the power supply capacitors are too small for the amplifier to produce the power. He then replaces them with larger, quality capacitors. You then bring the amplifier back and dyno it again. What do you know, it's made 1050W! (Please note: it's never this easy of a fix to get an amplifier to do it's rated power, it's usually more of a mod than this.) This is just a basic example of the importance of capacitors. For those interested in what caps are good, check a small website set up for people to know what caps are good and bad. Okay, so now here's where things are gonna get technical, so buckle up there is absolutely no tl;dr for any of this. Remember, with cheap caps not lasting and them having to overrate them? I'm gonna explain why for those who wish to know why they fail and why having good caps makes a world of difference. If you were to compare a Rockford Fosgate amplifier to a Hifonics, what you'd find is appropriately sized capacitors for every application, and power supplies ready to rock and make the amplifier pump out some serious power. With Hifonics, you'll find the absolute minimum to get the rated power, but this does cut the cost of the amplifier. So the way this plays out is usually the bare minimum not being enough, the peak it'll put out is likely going to be RMS output, and not much better. So the simple reason for this is because the cheap caps are smaller because they need to have a higher voltage rating so they do not fail. However, with the good caps, they can be larger due to them being able to handle their rated voltage. A little while before, I explained that caps being overrated can also cause them to fail. This is true, and I'll explain why. With capacitors, electrolyte will age and eventually wear out, or dry up. If you have good caps, they will likely dry up before they fail, but there is one flaw to this. If you take a good capacitor, let's say a Nichicon rated for 35V 1000uF, and run the capacitor at 12v all it's life, it's not going to last. The electrolyte in the capacitor cannot run too far below the rated voltage, or it will fail prematurely from the electrolyte wearing out. To prevent this, on a standard system the manufacturer will likey use capacitors rated at 16V 3300uF. This leaves some space in between running max voltage all the time, while not deviating too far. This makes for a perfect match, it also allows a capacitor to have a larger capacitance. This means a larger burst of electricity can be given to the amplifier when it's needed. Now you have an amplifier that can do it's rated power with no problems. However, the amplifier with the cheap caps will either struggle or not be able to do it's rated power at all. One last thing for the technicians who I'm about to trigger the shit out of. *breathes in* CapXon and similar brands (like Su'Scon and Samxon) are NOT BAD BRANDS. There is so much evidence of this being false it's not even funny. I have Mackie powered PA speakers and powered mixers that are FULL of these things. By that I mean there are no other brands of cap inside of them except on the preamp circuits. All of the caps test good within spec and the amplifier operates with no problems. Why do these brands have a bad reputation? Manufacturers using these caps out of spec. These are the best caps China has to offer if I'm honest. However, manufacturers know this and they use them like they're japanese high quality capacitors. They use them for tasks they are not specified for, such as having a ripple current rating that's too low. A good quality cap would likely not be too badly effected by this. However, with CapXon, they're seen failing in amps and LG monitors and tvs all the time. Why? Ripple current being too high for them to handle, you can check on YouTube for videos of this being explained and proven. I've seen brands like Su' Scon, Samxon, and even Jamicon in places where they were mission critical, and they are fine due to the cicuits they were installed in being quite well designed. I see Samxon in Dell power supplies a lot, never have a problem with them there. I see CapXon in Mackie amplifiers all the time, never have a problem with them. I see Jamicon in Trane furnaces every day when I work cleaning furnaces and servicing them, I've seen these caps over 10 years old still operating just fine. In the end, what I'm saying is don't jump to conclusions all the time about certain caps, I've seen this kind of stereotyping a lot and there's a lot of proof against this. I see it every day. Last but not least, amplifiers being able to stop voltage dimming on their own. As you all may have seen or may not have seen, there are a new type of capacitor starting to hit the market: the super capacitor. EricBigDWiz uses Maxwell supercaps rated for 2500 FARADS. These are HUGE and can release an absolutely massive ammounts of electricity, but they are too big to big to fit into an amplifier, so what next? They make smaller ones, that's what's next, they keep getting these capacitors smaller and smaller. Now, you can get a 500F capacitor that is the size of a small cell phone battery bank (those cheap round ones you see everywhere). This means you can put many of them together to get them to work with the voltage of the amplifier. There's also a new feature these caps have: most of them have 3 pins on them, one of them is a controlled release of the charge. This means they can release the charge slower, allowing for longer peak amplifier outputs. If anyone knows the Rockford Fosgate T15K, this amp has around 180 400F capacitors in it. This is why it can put out so much wattage without even trying, if they put these capacitors in more amplifiers, we'd have many more amplifiers that were low cost that could put out peak power easier. That's it for tonight, It's 4am and I probably left out some stuff. If I did tell me in the replies and I'll edit more into it. Any things people want to add let me know, I'll add it to this. Have a nice night guys.
  14. Charles Phillips

    Not Your Grandfather's Ohm Load...

    Hey! I'm trying to wire my SoundQubed Q1-1200.2 down to 0.5 Ohm. I have aftermarket watercooling going on it, so I'm not too worried about temps. The problem is that I only have one HDS-312 Dual Voice Coil @ 2 Ohm each (currently wired down to 1 Ohm final load). Does this mean if I double the amount of wire joining the two coils, I can approach 0.5 final Ohm load? Please don't just tell me not to do it. If any of us listened to that logic we wouldn't have the crazy setups that we do on here.
  15. Hey guys, Looking at woofers and amplifiers for a new build, does anyone know what a Crossfire XSv2 15/18 or a Crossfire 8k goes for? I've heard good things about them but haven't been able to find much in the way of pricing.
  16. Hey guys, sorry about the crap quality on this post, its my first. Anyways, me and a friend are trying to hook up one of those old stereos to a Logitech subwoofer and its inbuilt amp and it hasn't been easy, all we did first was hook up the signal cable I think its called from the stereo head unit to the subwoofer directly(No amp), and well it sound weak as shit. The reason we are doing this is because the tiny original subwoofer from the stereo blew and we dont want to sitt her without any bass at all. So basically what we want to do is to hook the signal cable to the subwoofers amp and make it play the bass through the Logitech subwoofer. The problem is that the amp doesn't have a normal signal in like amps usually do, it was connected to a small PCB with an aux on it with a Ribbon cable and the amp doesn't have an enclosure itself or any special kind of easy connects on it. The ribbon cable had thick wires and only 10 connectors so its possible to solder the signal wires in. Problem is that we dont know how or if its possible. More info: the amp is wall powered. Thanks for any help! If you need pictures of the amp and the inside and all just ask!
  17. Novak

    alpine mrv 1507?

    ok so on my quest to find a better amp than the one I have now ( alpine mrx-m100 600 @4, 1000 @2, 600 @1 that's straight out the manual) ive came acros an older alpine mrv1507 the alpine mrv 1507 is near 18 or so inches long and it is a 2 chl amp heres the spec form user manual 12v 20-20khz per chl 4 ohm - 150w 0.08% thd per chl 2 ohm - 300w 0.3% thd bridged 4ohm - 600w 0.3% thd 14.4v 20-20khz per chl 4 ohm - 225w 0.08% thd per chl 2 ohm - 450w 0.3% thd bridged 4 ohm - 900w 0.3% thd ive done some of my own research and everywhere I found says the amp is under rated but how far? and does anything it will handle 2 ohm bridged daily? ( I never drive far or bump to long so about maybe 10 or 15 min runs ) ohh asking price for it is 200 bucks
  18. The tests went as follows: 2 ohm certified: 1155 @14.05v 2 ohm dynamic: 1303 @14.31v 1 ohm certified: 1532 @14.52v 1 ohm uncertified: 1936 @13.79v 1 ohm dynamic: 2279 @14.14v .8 ohm dynamic: 284 [email protected] .67 dynamic: 3148 @14.24v Musical dynamic tests (using a song, not a test tone) 1 ohm: 2398 @14.64v .67 ohm: 3581 @14.7v .5 ohm: 4081 @14.13 The video to this test is here:
  19. I'm looking to get an amp to push 2 MTX Audio 9515-44s at 1ohm. They are both 1000 watts rms and wondering if the American Bass PH4000-MD would be a good match for the pair. If anyone knows if they are worth the money I would appreciate feedback. Gracias
  20. conbon

    Memphis srx 4.300

    What are your guys thoughts on the Memphis SRX 4.300 amp? I would power my Kenwood KFC 6x8 door and rear speakers with it. They get 80 watts rms. The Memphis puts out 50x4. Thoughts? Complaints? Thanks.
  21. Anand Sayroo

    DUAL DA1504D

    I saw dual brought out a bunch of new digital amplifiers. anyone had any experience or care to place an input on how they perform? primarily the DA1504
  22. ModernDayHero07

    Static noise audibly coming out of amp

    I have a friend who messaged me a problem they were having. I am not sure what is going on, but my guess is that something inside the amp is not working and/or broken and that he will at least need a new amp. I have no idea if I am right, so I come to you guys for your thoughts. Here is the message he sent me: " I've been having a problem with my stock stereo for a long time, maybe you have an idea of what it could be. I have a 2004 Tahoe with a bose amp and the stock head unit. I've been having loud static that sounds like it is coming from the amp. I put my ear down by where the amp is and can hear the static. Sometimes the volume completely cuts out like the amp turns off. Do you have any idea what this could be? "
  23. Since the unveiling of our A series amplifiers and before, I get the occasional email that reads "hey, I know you're busy, but could you design a few amps for me real quick" It usually makes me giggle a little and then smh. It takes me back to 1999 right before I started with RF. I also had no idea what was involved designing an amplifier from the ground up. No disrespect intended if you are reading this and have asked me to make you some amps before. How would you know what is involved if you haven't done it before? This has prompted me to go through literally thousands of photos on my phone and pull off any amplifier design pictures that have to do with the new amplifiers we just introduced. I will make my best attempt at posting them here in chronological order, and make some brief comments here and there. I also threw in a few pictures of my daughter taken during those times as a measure of time. The A series amplifiers are a direct COPY of the home audio amplifier I designed for my own use (changed power supply to 12VDC, added fans, remote turn on, balanced/unbalanced input and ability to put it into Class A/B mode (home amp is always class A)) so I have included the photos of designing that as well because all of the time I spent developing the circuits went directly into the mobile amplifiers. Ok enough of me talking.. On with the show! Before I build any circuit I like to try to simulate it in PSPICE, here you see a nice clean output and the predicted distortion My daughter was born during this time Here you see the power supply for the home amp. AC to DC supplies like this are very easy to design. The small circuit board is the input stage and voltage amplifier stage. This is where a lot of the magic is and many months of reading and testing were done to get it to work. Unfortunately I couldn't find any pictures during that time. We went through at least 3 different voltage amplifier designs, PCBs and testing before we came up with what we use today. Moved tested input stage and voltage amplifier stage onto main PCB instead of it having it's own PCB. (In the car amp it still has its own PCB for the least amount of noise possible) Each tiny resistor and transistor has been studied for voltage, current, and power dissipation. Prototyping the current amplifier stage It works! Now lets build 2 voltage amplifiers, 2 current amplifiers, connect them together and add a power supply! We also added a prototype SMD VU-DIN meter for S&G. Ok let's put this contraption in some kind of case so we can move it around without breaking anything. A SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno prototype case worked well Keeping the same case, I designed a simple face plate for it and had my machine shop CNC it. We put it all together with some prototype meters. Shown here on the distortion analyzer making a sweet ass sine wave with only 0.0068% THD! WHOA! Cleanest amp i've ever tested, home, pro, or car.

    Opinions on Soundqubed

    I'm about to buy four soundqubed hds2 15's, I'm gonna tune them to probably 32hz. I just wanted to get some people's opinions on them to see if there good sub's or if I should spend my money on something else.