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Those big boss amps are supposed to have many protection systems in place, hard to believe that something is fooling them all, likely it blew on it's own. Try testing with some other amp to be sure everything else in your system is as supposed to be. I have read about a couple of cases where the third amp actually worked, I wouldn't put my self through that though.

Subs are reading .9 to 1ohm at the amp and when the truck is running its sitting right at 14.5v

have you measured with a multimeter the final resistance at the amp speaker terminals? What does it read? also, Do you have a voltage gauge connected at the amp power input terminals? What does it read with the engine turned on? Your readings should be 0.7-0.9 ohms for the first test and 13-15V for the second test.

I have the subs wired down to 1ohm, and this has happened both times when I wasn't even playing music. I turned the truck on, radio, amp turns on like normal then poof.. amps on fire. The subs did make a loud crackle right before the amp started on fire if that helps?

Hey guys, I purchased a Mazda 3 not to long ago (non-bose) and am thinking of doing a small upgrade. As the topic states 6.5" woofer paired with a 3.5" coaxial in dash vs 6.5" woofer with 1" silk in dash. Anyone has any experience? Don't want blending issues and Mazda's have their tweeter way up under the glass but I really want to keep it as stock as possible and woofer goes in the door. Regards

What impedance are you wired to? IIRC those amps don't care for being wired below rated Sanity check it's not fixed to a high vibration area too

You have 3K worth of amplifier and 6K worth of woofers, as a permanent solution I would suggest a single 6K half bridge amp. There is a user on here that recently got one those big boss, he had good electrical and yet the amp had to be returned due to a fault just days after installation, not a rare occurrence. If you want luck with those full bridge amps run strictly within 12.5-15V (as measured at the amp power terminals) not for a millisecond above or below that, run loads 1 ohm or above. Don't place the amp where there is significant vibration and/or bad ventilation.

I'm running 4 Skar vxf-15v2 with a Taramps Big boss 3k, duel 1/0 power and grounds to the amp, Mechman 400 amp alternator but the amp caught fire after being installed for 1 day. this is the second amp I've gone through (warrantied the last one) both amps had less then 2 hours play time on them. What could keep frying my amps?! This is the first amp ive ever fried in car audio. I need help trying to figure this out! thanks in advance!

Pretty hard to wire and setup such a big system, looks like you are running about 50KW of power, makes me wonder how you got lost on this one problem. You should have voltage monitoring near the amps and at the battery terminals, the first thing I would do is get the system to exhibit the fault while monitoring the voltages, if there is a sharp drop when the problem occurs is one thing BUT if no voltage drop is found when the system cuts out then you are looking to a different non power related fault. Fast voltage meters are important too, like the SMD-VM-1 when trying to catch transient faults.

If you are hearing distortion in your speaker it means that you have set your gains wrong or in some cases that you are letting through low frequencies generally you should hi-pass speakers and use a sub to take care of the lows. You should consider gtting a DD-1 or a mini scope to set your gains, you need to check if your head unit is generating distortion by itself many times is not that the amp is clipping. As for buying used, who knows how the last user mistreated the amp besides the scratch, not sure if amazon would take the time to test it, if buying used I would consider manufacturer refurbished stuff, if you go for that amp make sure amazon allows returns for that item.

are you burp or music in the lanes? maybe just enough draw to cause an issue or make it a little quieter. have you double checked all your other connections for tightness? also im curious as to why you would disconnect the ltos from the alt?

not sure if you'll notice the extra 25 watts much. maybe in the mid bass, but I would think that's about all the extra you'll get there

Hi guys and girls Have a question that im scratching my head over. Have just finished building and testing a big system for a customer. System is 6 x 8k amplifiers 6 x 15inch subs ( 6th order ) 6 x banks LTOs ( 15.0v during testing ) 1 x zapco ASP-L6 c-ch signal line driver 4 x zapco 4ch amplifiers ( for speakers ) Kenwood single din headunit. Now during testing we where metering 159db + and destroying windscreens. All testing was done with Bluetoothing to headunit. Headunit volume control only no bassknob. We have spent almost 100hrs testing getting constant results in the 158/159db range. When we went in to the lanes yesterday ( colder weather then during testing ) we where having issues where system would cut out when increasing volume and would meter over 157.7db. Everything it reached that point system would shut down or go quiet. We got voltage on ltos up to 15.7v before entering lanes. Even demoing after it was not going as hard as it did during testing. We have had no signs of amplifiers going in to protect or any of that. I'm now scratching my head as to why in testing everything was working grate but on the day nothing was going to plan. We did disconnect ltos charging from alternator during our the runs and connected vehicles battery up for headunit power. Could this have caused our issues? Could it be lack of voltage to headunit and signal line driver? This was the only change we did during our run in the lanes. Any suggestions and advice would be appreciated. Note: we do not have a high output alternator yet for this vehicle. Thanks

I could probably sort you out, I specialize on many enclosures including home audio and car, you can message me here and I'll give you one of my socials so we can chat.

The title really says it all - I have four doors outfitted with the Skar SPX-65C mid/tweeter combo, and I'm looking to get the most out of them for quality over quantity type listening, though I do like my music loud. I've currently got a Skar RP-75.4AB and the SKv2 is currently on order, as I found one that Skar is selling used on Amazon for under half the price simply because it was a return and has a big ol' scratch going across the top of the housing (which I don't care about as it'll be hidden anyway). So my question is simply, will that amp be a good pairing for those speakers or is there anything I should worry about? Currently the amp I have underperforms as I can hear the audio clipping a bit when I crank it up all the way. If I lower the gain then the clipping goes away but of course I lose the loudness that I know the speakers can achieve. Hoping that the extra 25 watts RMS per channel will help achieve that last bit of loudness I want without sacrificing quality. Thanks in advance and I'm curious to hear what y'all think! PS: I am using an 8-gauge wire setup for power... They recommend 4 gauge but I know that 8 gauge is good for up to 50 amps, which equates to about 750 watts at 14.4 volts. That should be fine, right? I'm very much a novice but I try to do a lot of research to make informed decisions before going through with things lol.

I posted on Youtube butI never know if anyone replies. Are you going to anounce the winner here also?

Sundown has a design for the Zv6 (by the same designer) it is 2.5 net tuned to 32Hz and 35.75 square inches of port area and double layer 0.75 wood all around so for two subs it's 5 cubes net @32Hz with 71.5 square inches of port area, you just need to layout according to the vehicle you have. For a trunk car that would be subs firing back, port firing back or sideways.

that $100 isnt just for a design, its for a design by someone who has taken the time to learn and understand what a sub needs and where... you are paying for knowledge. $100 aint shit in the grand scheme of things. i was going to throw my name out in the ring, but im right in the same ballpark for a design

Ran the truck around today and let things sing. Ran the voltmeter on it for a while, truck was maintaining 14.1-14.2 the entire time, caught a range during a few heavy tracks - max 14.2 min 13.6 at the sub amp terminals. Battery and wire upgrades coming soon. I thought I had a little more wiggle on the stock electrical. Definitely proved myself wrong. Thanks for the help y'all