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there doesnt seem to be any info from the manufacturer about crossover frequency... most component crossovers wont have that spec listed. if it came with your equipment originally i would say its probably fine to run up to the rated power the manufacturer suggests. the best way to know what you are crossing over and rolling off at would be to go active crossover with a dsp, or other unit that lets you set those parameters. if i had to guess that crossover is probably a -16db slope at or near the low end of the frequency range of the tweeters

just realised this is a duplicate thread, and this one is in the wrong section. im copying and pasting my answer onto your other thread thats located correctly in case this thread gets locked/ deleted

there doesnt seem to be any info from the manufacturer about crossover frequency... most component crossovers wont have that spec listed. if it came with your equipment originally i would say its probably fine to run up to the rated power the manufacturer suggests. the best way to know what you are crossing over and rolling off at would be to go active crossover with a dsp, or other unit that lets you set those parameters. if i had to guess that crossover is probably a -16db slope at or near the low end of the frequency range of the tweeters

Hey Guys, 1 of my silks got damaged so am in the market for a new pair. I got the JL C2 6.5 components where the tweeters are 8ohm and a bit out of my budget right now. I reached out to JL where they said that if I use any other 4ohm or 6ohm tweeters (more available) it will increase the power the tweeter sees, which i understand. But they said it will also change the crossover points (raise or drop because of the change in ohm) on the passive crossover (C2s), in which i want to reuse. Ill add a picture of the crossover. Any way yall can calculate for me if it will raise or drop based on 4ohm and 6ohm? and if yall would know how much power the passive can actually handle based on viewing. Thanks

Hey guys, I know this is the wrong forum but it seems that you get quicker responses here. Can anyone assist me in understanding just for my knowledge what is this crossover doing? what frequencies rolling off at and where ect. Its for a JL C2. And if anyone knows how much power this can safety handle.

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I threw together sample dimensions to come up with about 9.7ft^3. Two 6" aeroports at 16" length results in around 9ft^3 tuned to 27.5Hz. That's honestly way too little port area. For something closer to Kicker's "port ratio" (they give slot port dimensions on their website, converted the rule of thumb numbers to reflect an aeroport) you'd want to do something like a 10" aeroport from someone like BigAss-Ports. https://www.bigass-ports.com/product-p/10vt1.htm A single 10" port at 16" of length nets you 8.9ft^3 tuned to around 32Hz. That's just under 4.5ft^3 net per sub (right in the middle of 3-6ft^3 recommended by Kicker) and a conservative port area number.

I’ve looked around tons of websites and port calculators etc. I either get a really short Aeroport and then the sq inches of port per cube don’t add up to me. I’m looking to tune 32-35hz. My box is currently sealed and about 9.7 cubes after subs. I have 2 L7 15s and they’re firing up in my extended cab truck with 1/0 power/ground with 10guage speaker wire running off a hifonics Zeus 3200.1 I’m just curious if I need 2 6” ports at 16” length or what my brain is fried

Looking to build a box for a friend of mine for his 2 skar 12s he believes there just the SDRs but he has a trailblazer and likes slot ported either one in the center or one on each end of the enclosure. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Only done one other build for my American Bass XFL1544s.

you ought to be alright. just be mindful of things on the floor near the port. larger items near the port could change the way it plays.

This is for a 12" DC Audio Elite XL. I believe I have about 14" from port exit to the rear seats. This is going in a 2007 Dodge Ram 1500.

what sub is going into it? might be better off with a sealed application in the console. that air velocity i think would still make a little unwanted noise. how much room is between the port and whatever its firing against?

I was really impressed recently on a pair of Skar TX65C's a customer had me install in their truck. (impressed for the price-point at like $100/set) https://www.skaraudio.com/products/tx65c-6-5-inch-component-speaker-system#Description However they also had a matching set of Skar TX65 coaxials in the rear doors and we powered everything off of a Rockford PBR300X4.

I'm looking for suggestions on speakers for a classic car. Nothing crazy. I'd like a pair of 6.5s and a 8" sub. The 6.5s will go in a center console. Just need something that will sound decent over the exhaust. Considering 6x9 in the rear deck as well but I have no desire to cut it or the door panels right now. Looking for best bang for the buck under $100 on a pair of 6.5s.

Hey All, I'm working on a design for a center console build for my 2007 Ram 1500. (Sub up/Port back) Here is where I am at, and I was hoping for some input if I should be concerned with any loading issues or odd interaction in regards to the area above the entrance of my port. Talking through my logic here for design context - I originally intended for an L-port, but will not have clearance after the bend and it would put my port entrance too close to the bottom of the baffle. I am currently at my maximum dimension restrictions, so to work around this I adjusted the port as seen in my images below. I added the baffle extension around the sub to give me 1.75" of clearance between the subs pole vent and the top of the port, 1" just didn't feel like enough. This will be powered by a JP23V2 at either 0.7 or 1-ohm, have not decided yet. Port area was determined by trying to cut down on port velocity as much as possible. As it will be a center console, I chose to double-wall everything except the bottom of the box - which I intend to use some 2" dowels in the port (double walled port) to hopefully add a little extra rigidity along with all of the weight resting on that bottom panel. Torres is accounting for all single wall plus an extra baffle. When I modeled, I included the extra 1.5" for the double-walls in the appropriate dimensions. I will be molding the outermost edges towards the front to the dash itself, but kept everything square in the initial Sketchup model for simplicity. Trying ImageShack for the first time so hopefully images upload correctly...

1st design might be ok depending on amp. its a smidgen larger than recommended, but it might be ok... usually on oversized you get less playable bandwidth, but more output (louder). its also a little more risky to the subs.

2nd design looks to be ok off hand... ill run it through winisd when i get off work later tonight and ill let you know what i come up with

I've never used the jl, but i used to install the jbl stuff. if you are not planning on putting an amp on them the jbl will still be a good choice. I've installed the gto series both on head unit power and amplified. they do well with head unit power and sound good. adding the amp to them just really increases the volume while maintaining the clarity they have naturally.

Hey guys, in a bit of a pickle. So I had a set of JL C1 6.5s and one of the tweets got damaged but that's not the issue. My concern is the woofer. A buddy of mines has a pair of the jbl gto 609c and i really like how they sound. Now, I can simply get another pair off tweeters an all is well with my C1 woofers but I was never really to pleased with the amount of mid bass and overall clarity, response & output of the C1 woofer, but I never had an amplifier hooked up, just off head unit power so am sure they can do plenty better. I am also planning to buy a small amplifier soon. Any advise on or any experience if I should keep the C1s woofer or will I be more pleased with the JBL gtos. https://kh.jbl.com/car-speakers/GTO609C_.html https://www.jlaudio.com/products/c1-650-car-audio-speakers-c1-speaker-systems-99043 Many thanks in advance.

put the box on the passenger side and scoot that seat forward.... its not as wide as the box you posted. the one you posted is 38 wide the one i posted is 25 wide. its up to you. i just posted one that i had made up for my old job. i could design one for you, but i do charge for the design process. if thats something you are interested in, let me know and we can iron out the details

I appreciate your input, and responding so quickly! I think the box you're describing will push my seat forward even more than the one I built though. This is the original box I built

just do me a favor and post some pics and maybe a vid or 2 when you get it built and playing

thats a prefab i had designed out for an audio shop i used to work for. single x15 salt 2 was the combo, but t1500bdcp should be just fine. sub and port are both on the 20" side of the box. face it up when in the cab and put the port passenger side. should get down edit: not a prefab, but a box i designed and we always had one or 2 built up... it was prefabricated when we sold it, so i just call it prefab

Does anyone have dimensions, or know of the best way to go about putting a sundown x15 in a 1998 extended cab ranger? I started by building a box to sundowns recommended size. It sounded good, but pushed my seat too far forward. So I went with a wedge style, with the sub in between seats. But I forgot to account for woofer movement. I listen to hip/hop, rebassed and decaf primarily. And want it to hit as hard as possible with what I'm working with. I've got a Fosgate t1500-1bd for now. I've got a full woodshop, and know how to build. I just don't know my way around design programs. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks