MickyMcD

Cheers, Mick

Oh dear, he's a stubborn one. Well, grab an amp and go for gold. Figure it out yourself. I've done it, I know what happens, but I wholey encourage you to destroy some drivers and trip some circuit breakers in the name of science. Cheers, Mick

Ah christ. Look, it doesn't take any more current to make any frequency. 20volt output at the terminals is 20 fucking volts, no matter the frequency. If I knew how to upload video's and had the time, I'd grab some footage of my rack at work. The low frequency amplifier is pumping close to 70 volts a side, the midrange close to 40 volts and the high range a mere 20 volts. However, this is from acoustically flat white noise with no compression or equalisation. Now, my PV3800 draws 9 amperes of current, my C-T410 draws 4.6 and the M700 draws 2 amperes at 240volt. Which ones do you think handle low, mid and high frequency? And no, Class A/B amplifiers do not get hot because it takes more current to amplify high frequencies. Class A, A/B, C, G, H and A/B+B hybrids generate heat becuase they are inefficient power suckers. Because of the transistor arrangement (push-pull) and the power supplies necessary to sustain negative feedback amplification, traditional analogue amplifiers generate heat through power loss and transformer saturation. Class D and tD function on what is called Pulse Width Modulation, or 'digital.' In this amplification, a high frequency oscillator feeds the amplification circuit a constant triangular wave on which the incoming signal is referenced to. The signal is then converted to varying amplitude ons and offs (1's and 0's) that vary in resolution depending on the reference oscillator's frequency. The comperated signal is then demodulated (who comes up with these words? No-one with a speech impediment I bet) in which the triangular reference wave is removed and BA-DA! A high power signal is present at the output terminals. This process is damn effecient, sometimes up to 90%, a far cry from the 40-60% effeciency of other amplifier topologies. If my amplifier is 40% effecient, where does the rest of the energy go........you guessed it, HEAT! This is what has people confused; A high frequency waveform contains more energy in joules during the same period as a low frequency waveform if both amplitude and period stay constant. But GENERATING A HIGH FREQUENCY WITH CONE, DIAPHRAGM AND ELECTRET BASED LOUDSPEAKERS REQUIRES LESS ELECTRICAL ENERGY THAN LOW FREQUENCY. And that, ladies and gentlemen, concludes today's rant and rebuts the point that low frequency amplification is a taxing task, and the amplification unit will draw more current generating a low frequency waveform of the same amplitude through a loudspeaker than a higher frequency waveform. But for christ's sake, the difference in power draw between 50 and 60hz is negligable at best. If you are that worried, upgrade your charging system.

Right, but what you just posted, if read correctly, doesn't match what you posted before. Your last post mentions 'sheer force from the cone moving through the air.' That is indicative of a higher power level towards something that is moving. A low frequency driver with 20mm of linear motion, by your reasoning, has more power than a high frequency driver moving .02mm....which is correct... ....but your first post explains you believe high frequency devices have more power? As we say.....lolwut? Another thing is the equations below do work for most things, but keep in mind a loudspeaker is a passive inductive reactive load (ain't that a mouthful?) being driven by a variable voltage supply. It's motion is dependant on what the amplifier is doing. And now for my own Big Three - Resonance, Resistance and Effeciency. A loudspeaker almost always has a non linear resistance, that is it is constantly changing depending on frequency. Driver X may have a resistance of 2.14ohm @ 34hz, but a resistance of 32ohm@80hz. In most cases, low frequency drivers have the lowest resistance at their natural resonance point, which is quite often a very low frequency. The closer you are to that point, the less resistance encountered, the more power out of your amplifier. To sum it all up, you can test your amplifiers on any god-damn frequency you want. Hell, be a professional and test on white noise to set it up properly. Again, 20volts is 20volts. It's a fuggin variable voltage supply, it's not hard to get what you want out of it. But pushing low frequencies requires more power than high frequencies becuase of driver impedance, effeciency, the way humans hear, cabinet resonances, linear motion, material suspension......... Cheers, Mick P.S. FUCK YES AUSTRALIA

Ah come on man, that's not fair. I wish you all the best, that is terrible news. I sincerely do hope that you can manage, if not recover from, you illness. My regards to you and your wife and son. I am sorry to hear this. Cheers, Mick

Hey hey, you found one! Those things are rated at 200wrms (34.5v@6ohm), and at that age the suspension will be sagging a little and the surround might be a bit rotten, but fire that baby up. Oldschool JBL's are pretty bulletproof, and I hope this one works just as well. Cheers, Mick.

Excuse me? The reason hi-range drivers are small is because they pull more current? And it would be an incredible feat to control a woofer at high frequencies? I'm not even going to start a rant before I ask this; where did you come across this information, and why did you believe it? Cheers, Mick P.S. On side note, fuck it. Right, well let's start. No, a higher frequency waveform does not 'draw' more current. To be straight, I can get 20volts at my output terminals whether it be 20 hertz or 20,000. No matter the frequency, 20 volts is still 20 volts. An amplifier amplifies (funnily enough) so it will amplify any frequency within range that you feed to the input terminals. The reason 50hz is used is because it falls exactly on a harmonic, and also falls at one of the 'standard' 1/8 octave regions. Not only that, but it provides a mean average of low frequency output power. A proper, 100% show of output power is used through white noise. The reason a high frequency driver is smaller is to keep moving mass low, sensitivity high and transient response high. And for the record, it is much harder to get 20khz out of any cone based loudspeaker than to 'control' it's movement. Christ man, what movement? Any cone based loudspeaker is barely tickled by high frequency programme. You'll cook coils before you even begin noticable linear cone movement. Take the Peavey 22xt and 44xt drivers. One is a two inch, titanium compression driver. The other is a four inch titanium compression driver. The four inch model sees reduced overall programme effeciency and a roll off of 12db/octave almost half an octave before the 22xt's roll off. But, it does get a hell of a lot louder, and sees response well into the midrange frequencies from using a high mass driver.

Negative ghost rider. More power is needed to generate a full power low frequency waveform than one of a higher frequency. Also, most loudspeaker's have the lowest resistance at borderline sub-bass frequencies. Less resistance=more power from the amplifier. 50-60hz however is a mean average of most bass testing. That, 100hz and 1k are pretty much standardised test frequencies. Cheers, Mick

Steve, ima ask only one thing. Please, please please get pics of the console, amplifier racks and the FOH system. Pwetty pwease stevo? Cheers, Mick

An amplifier will be stable into any impedance above the heat threshold impedance. So if my amplifier is listed as stable to 2 ohm, then anything above that (as long is it is not inductive or reactive, that's a wee bit more complicated) will be fine. Even 100,000,000ohm. Just don't expect much power. Cheers, Mick

Lulz, square waves are fun. We got a PA dropped off to us, busted up and broken down. Had a twin fifteen in woofer cab per side, each with a pair of JBL 2226 drivers.... ...bridged up a Lab.Gruppen FP6400+, 28hz full square = wheee! Made some right ripper noises before they went up in flames. Cheers, Mick

Ausfalia ftw dude, Townsville 4811 bloke here. Statesman huh? Can fit a lot in a statesman. I will put my vote to a pair of well done fifteen inch woofers with solid amplification, a well done head unit install, Focal front end (most focal's seem to fit well into the Holden door panels strangely enough, almost made to fit.) Loud and clear is the key my friend. Jabitinya, Mick

I feel sorry for both you and your friends as well as the man. I know a general opinion of suicide is cowardice; How many of you have been desperate enough to even attempt it? Let me know when you have, and I will assure you your opinion has changed. This is not something anyone should bear. I am truly sorry you had to go through this. It is very dissappointing that even though this man deemed it suitable to take his own life, that he did drag others into his own mess and scar them for life as well. That is not fair on you and the others, that is quite dispicable. But ask yourself; What can you do against an intoxicated man who is not in the right mind and armed with a powerful weapon? We are only human, you did the right thing. You called the right people, you behaved the right way. But as it was said; That man made up his mind long before the first beer. Sleep easy my friend. Cheers, Mick

Kwek Kwek! Cheers, Mick

To be completely and technically correct, you shouldn't run off either. RMS is Root Mean Squared, and is a mathematical calculation. Continuous power is what you are looking for, or the power that the particular driver can constantly take without damage. But, in today’s marketing, RMS and continuous power is the same thing. So yes, a high continuous power woofer is your friend for hi-power applications. Cheers, Mick

Holy sheepshit, that is a fucker of a coil and cone assembly. What can those drivers handle? Cheers, Mick

Peak power= massively inflated garbage. You can trust Peak Power to be the rating it takes as pieces of the driver are flying around (in most cases.) I know a lot of DB Drag competitors put psychopathic amounts of power to their drivers, with good reason. One thousand watts is a lot of power man, don't doubt it. A nice effecient box will see that thousand watts go a long way. If you need any help, just shoot. Cheers, Mick

You know, I thought it was perfectly safe too.... ...then 32 transistors turned to ash. Make it quick, your amplifier will love it. Make it long, well, your amplifier may or may not turn into fried circuit board platter. Depends on your protection circuitry. Mine wasn't even there (gooood QC on that one.) Cheers, Mick

Fucking legend, that's gold. Cheers, Mick

No worries matey. It should do exactly what you want for less dollars than most. Cheers, Mick

I think Boon thought of the right one. It sounds like a DC offset issue. Since I haven't seen or heard the setup or have too much information I really don't know, but I think Boon's guess has it... How we used to check our old Crown Com-Tech's for offset issues was, and don't laugh, we would get a small DC electric motor, the kind that runs like the clappers on a AAA or AA battery. We would put it to the terminals of the amplifier at no gain, half gain and full gain (WITH NO SIGNAL) and see if it runs. If it runs fairly well at half gain and if it runs at all when no gain is applied or it is muted, it's borked. Cheers, Mick

http://cgi.ebay.com/BEHRINGER-CX2310-2-Way...1QQcmdZViewItem This shall float your boat. You will be able to cross over your mid/high speakers to remove bass and increase headroom, while using the woofer out crossed nice and low to fill out your low frequencies and get rid of that HF 'beaming' you hear when running higher frequencies through a woofer. Cheers, Mick

For sure man, I'll keep an eye open on EBay. There are plenty of them around up there, let me go for a look. Cheers, Mick

Behringer offers simple 2way stereo/3way mono crossovers that will allow you to select the appropriate crossover frequency and slope. If you want something a little bit better quality and sounds a bit better, look for brands such as; Mackie Peavey Alesis Yamaha They offer cheap crossovers that will not colour your sound quality too much at all. Cheers, Mick

Nut job reporting in. Three years of therapy and a support helped me. Not cured, you can't really 'cure' it. But makes it managable and allows you to live a happy life. Find a pillar of support and support yourself to keep you up. Substance abuse is not a pillar of support. It can be a friend, a lover, an idol/mentor etc etc. If it works for Multiple Personality, anxiety, depression, minor schizophrenia etc etc, it'll work for most people. You need to find something good and true in the world, and stide towards it. You can either navigate around the things in your way, or bash them out of the way. But find something worth having, and fight to protect it. Cheers, Mick