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About wrexxy

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  1. ^^^ This exactly I have a DMM and an Oscope, so as long as i don't screw up it'll be clean power up to full volume on the HU. And it'll only be 1000 watts rms if I have the volume on my head unit maxed out, which I doubt will ever happen. Plus i'll have the remote gain knob which i'll set and make a marking of what blends well with my front/rear speakers (ID CTX65cs abd CTX65) cause i'm assuming the sub will greatly over power the speakers even though they'll be getting ~125 rms at full HU volume. So as bbeljefe said when i'm actually playing at normal listening volumes i'll most likely be giving the sub the rated 500rms. Besides the fact, tons of people run 750 watts and up to the SA 8 v.2 daily.
  2. no it'd be less than 5 ft, i'm just trying to figure out if i'm going to have a harder time getting the 10 gauge into the speaker terminals
  3. forgot to add specifics, 12 gauge would be fine to use with 800 watts rms at 1 ohm?
  4. what speaker wire do people run to the sa8 v2 if they wire it down to 1 ohm? i emailed jacob and he said it has 12 gauge terminals, but at 1 ohm you'd need something more like 8-10 gauge to be on the safe side
  5. That's awesome news, i don't need to switch the order on my box in that case!
  6. Alright fair enough. I could have sworn I was readi g a thread by sundown that said it your guna over power the sa8 v2 then go with a 0.5 cu ft?
  7. fitting the box isn't the issue, taking up space in my hatch is my issue haha. just cause i have to space to fit a much larger enclosure doesn't mean i can justify losing all that hatch space.
  8. would i notice a difference between a .5 cu ft box vs. a .75 cu ft box? assuming their both tuned to the same frequency?
  9. basically as the title says. i was planning on a .75 ft^3 box for a single 8, but have been reconsidering that option since most people have been saying that the box has to be huge because of the port. I wanted the ported vs the sealed cause i didn't want to lose out on the low stuff 30 Hz and below.
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