duct_tape123

1-RF P4004 $165 2-RF 6.5 2 way(doors) $103.58 1-5x7 2 way(rear overhead) $67.50 1- RFK4d wiring kit $114.80 2- P215S8 15" subwoofers $162.97 1- P5002 500 watt amp $ 132.38 All prices include shipping. Total $746.23

What color are they? The ones I posted a link to are early 2000 to 2004, I think? Here is some from about '97. linky

Do they look like this?

Here is my shot at it. 17" tall, by 17" deep, by 37" wide. 3.5" wide slot port, L1 = 12", L2 = 5". Net volume = ~4 ft^3 @ ~35 Hz. Used Rockford's specs and RE box calc. Might need input from amatt on this one, for a second opinion.

Check for a bad RCA. Get some Y-adapters instead of running one amp from the pass-through of the other amp.

Just follow her instructions!!! lol

The tools you are speaking of are a ratchet and sockets. Chris D is right about the screw terminals in your fuse holder.

Not trying to be rude, but WTF are you talking about? Metal wrench with big holes?? 1. Go to car 2. Use required tools to take fuse out 3. Strip power to go to amp 4. Insert power in amp and tighten 5. Replace fuse in fuse holder with above mentioned tools (probably will spark, but don't worry) 6. Make sure it works 7. Try to lick your elbow :lol: <<make sure you videotape this part for us!!

What exactly is a "nug"? lol

Just one question, did you buy your wiring kit from wal-mart? A kid came to me after installing his system by himself, bought everything at wal-mart (bought the $80 capacitor kit), and said that his amps kept cutting off radomly, the coming back on randomly. I look over everything and found out that his fuse holder was not holding the fuse very tightly. What was happening was his fuse would get disconnected and no more power. So I replaced the fuse holder with a Rockford one from BestBuy and everything was good. He said that with the new fuse holder his system was noticeably louder too!!!

Delete steps 4 and 6! You won't blow the fuse if everything is hooked up right.

1. Take fuse out of fuse holder. 2. Plug power wire in amp. 3. Replace fuse (may spark, but don't be a pussy,lol)

I thought you were talking about power wire in a fuse holder under the hood. For power wire on amp do what dwright27 said.

Take the fuses out of the amp just to make sure you don't blow them, or the amp.

Its sparking because its sending power through the wire rapidly. Always happens when I replace a fuse. But just to be sure make sure the power wire is not getting cut or touching a ground ANYWHERE!!! You won't get shocked if you only are touching the positive side, just make sure you aren't touching metal(body of car, or frame) with the hand you are not using. I always put one hand behind my back to make sure I am not completing the circuit.

Slide it in from inside the cabin? On the biggest side it is 28" X 11". It says it will fit 95-03 Stangs.

Just get this and another pair of P2s with a T10001BD.

My brother had a Rockford 15" P3 sealed off a 750.1 in an '02 'Stang and it SLAMMED!! As long as you have the recommended ft^3 the actual dimensions don't really matter.

If you did that, the sub wired parallel would recieve the same amount of power that BOTH the others would see, I think. You would have weird ohms too, something like 5 or 6 ohms.

I'd take an original H1 over that any day. I don't like the look of the H2, H3, or this one.

I mean demoed after the COMPLETE install is done. I know it has been demoed on tones, but not full out wang with highs and all.

I'm sure it will be the guy who payed for everything, and owner of the car, Chicken.

Not off e-bay! The Kappa series is the way to go! Link! Link! You just have to find somebody that ships world wide.

That isn't the box those come in is it? Those sound really good for shallow subs. I'm thinking of grabbin a pair for my single cab truck, would you recommend them?

I agree that commercial was hilarious!!!